Tamadrummer
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Everything posted by Tamadrummer
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Bleepinjeep quick release hood pins
Tamadrummer replied to Tamadrummer's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Iron jacket MJ on here? I’ve never seen them besides the bleepinjeep guy -
Anyone try these flush mount quick releases? https://store.bleepinjeep.com/product/flush-mount-hood-pins-aluminum-quick-release/ They look clean compared to the typical quick release pins
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Stock suspension height?
Tamadrummer replied to Tamadrummer's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
@Eagle would a SOA give me more than 6” on those measurements I gave? The leafs and shackles look stock -
*didn’t notice the date lol. What about for 2019??
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I’ve never been! I’m in Sarasota County though. Thankfully, I’m finally back in the Jeep game and I’d be interested if it lines up with work and my Comanche running/driving lol
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88 Pioneer Build (Picture dense)
Tamadrummer replied to Tamadrummer's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I started with a wire wheel on the floor pans and I found some rust holes. I guess it isn’t a comanche without rusted through floors. -
Stock suspension height?
Tamadrummer replied to Tamadrummer's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I finally measured the ride height and the front is at 10.25” and rear is at 10.5”. I figure it’s a 3” lift in the front? And maybe new leafs in the rear to match? I was going to do SOA but idk anymore with those leafs -
Stock suspension height?
Tamadrummer replied to Tamadrummer's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Measured the height from the ground to the fender and the front is sitting at 35” and the rear is at 35.5”. Can anyone out there on stock suspension and 31’s tell me their measurements?? -
I was good with xj’s but cannot determine suspension height with tire size on mj’s yet. I bought this as it sits now. It’s on 31’s and the coils springs look painted/newer? The truck has almost no rust on the exterior and the leaf springs are surprisingly clean looking but not brand new. I think the suspension is at stock height and want see if anyone else can verify just by pictures.
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Go at it again and let the front brake fluid drain completely? Then follow the instructions above? I didn’t even put 2 and 2 together about the different brake resivours I’ll try that but still want to eventually do the brake booster upgrade. Thanks for all the help so far, going to be a lot of this going on lol
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Long time MJ dreamer here. I built a xj back in college and since I built it, I’ve wanted a mj. So, two weeks ago I drove 12hrs round trip overnight from SW Florida to South GA to pick up a mostly rust free Pioneer from CC member, Griff04 . It’s a 1988 4.0, 4x4, auto, longbed, 200k miles. 2 piece D30 front, D35 rear, stock 3.55 gears. 231 t-case and I believe the ax15 tranny (2h-4h-4l). He replaced the the tranny and t-case with one from a xj with 160k miles. He also did some heavy gasket work so I have not seen any leaks. The owner before him replaced the trac bar with an adjustable JKS. The truck looks like it’s on stock suspension with 31’s. First things I had to address were the soft brakes and occasional no start. I already started a brake thread to further diagnose them. If you are interested or have some soft brake issues go check that out. The no start issue seemed like it as something simple. The ignition would light up the dash and turn the fuel pump on but turn the key and nothing, no clicks. I replaced the battery leads because they appeared to be original. I was able to just pull the main positive lead out of the crimp it should have been in. I didn’t take pictures of that process since you guys know that’s straight forward. I just goobered up the terminals with the red terminal grease because Florida wreaks havoc on batteries. This seemed to have solved the issue so far. I tore up the carpet even though the truck seemed solid. It looks like the windshield leaks and caused the carpet to get wet. In the pictures you’ll see the floor pans don’t look terrible. I’m going to take a wire wheel on an angle grinder and go to town. Then I was planning on throwing down some ospho and bedlining the floor. From here I will eventually lift it just not sure how much yet. the xj I built was 4.5” on 33’s. I definitely want to run atleast 33’s if not bigger!
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Right, I was referencing the vacuum actuator on the front axle for the 2 piece axle shaft. It’s vacuum engaged and was wondering if it would affect the vacuum for the brake booster. I don’t believe it matters for the brakes as one line was off the actuator and placing it back on did not change anything. For the bypass, when I tried to bleed the rear with the front open, the front was spraying/leaking too much fluid and it about drained the MC. Since it let that much fluid though the front I’m assuming the bypass is not working as it should. I’m new to the bypass but if it was functioning properly I would guess less fluid would be distributed to the front when the bleeder is left open. Should I do the delete/bypass on the rear height load sensing valve? The truck looks like stock height on 31’s but I will eventually lift it
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I’m new to that differential valve, but when it’s engaged in 4x4 it wouldn’t change braking power distribution?
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I have not verified the rear drums are functioning yet. But when I followed the bleeding process like the picture I posted the open front bleeder was spraying fluid which makes me think the bypass didn’t engage, correct? I had a spare tranny and t-case in the rear but guess it’s not heavy enough to increase the rear brake pressure.
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Would not being able to bleed the bypass cause them to be so soft? If there is residual air in the bypass?
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Tried bleeding the system to go through the bypass and it didn’t function. Looks like I’ll just do the 96 xj booster, mc, and bypass sooner than later lol
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Like this? If so, no I didn’t bleed the bypass. I’ll try that now. Also could it be the vacuum actuator on the front axle? The soft lines on that just fall right off. If I’m correct my Xj didn’t have that even though it was a 91.
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Hey guys, I finally picked up a MJ after looking for one for about 5 years. 1988 4.0 auto 4x4 long bed. Anyways, the brakes are real soft. I’ve bleed them, verified the booster has good vacuum, and it has a newer master. PO just replaced the drums/pads and rotors/pads. I’ve read on here and the cherokeeforum but I’m coming up short. The pedal moves a good 2-3” before brakes engage and I have to put it to the floor to just come to a complete stop at stop signs. Any other suggestions I'm missing? Or are these trucks just that weak in the brakes? I’ll end up doing the ‘96 xj booster swap but no one has them in stock right now and none at the jy either.
