88eliminator

I put the bilstien 5100's that had were capable for the 3" lift.

Hello, I have a 1988 eliminator 2wd and I just recently put on 3.5" lift and right after installation I have noticed a loud clunk under the driver and passenger floor boards. All the parts I used: Rubicon express 3.5" front coils JKS UCA JKS LCA JKS adjustable Track-bar JKS adjustable sway bar links Bilstien 5100 Right after finishing putting the lift on I drove it around the block and discovered a new loud clunk that I can feel under my feet while I drive. I checked everything for movement or rubbing and the only thing that I found that seems to have play is where the LCA meet the unibody frame. I re-checked the torque specs for what the bolt should be tightened on the LCA but all my bolts were all torqued. The clunk is really loud when going over little bumps in the road but its goes away when your on the freeway. there are still minor clunk noise on the freeway but you can't really notice it. I was just wondering if anyone has had this problem before or if anyone has advise that will help me solve this irritating clunk. The truck is used as my DD and I have learned to live with it but it is definitely annoying when your on a really bumpy road. Thanks.

Thanks so much guys for your help.

Hello, I have a 1988 jeep comanche eliminator, which is currently stock height. I am lifting the front about 3.5 inches and was wondering whats the best way that I can level or just lift the rear up with out going SOA. and also keeping the original leaf springs. I also was wondering if you add a leaf on leaf springs under axel (SUA) how much would that lift it?

I just checked my manifold bolts a couple days ago. My next thing to do is to clean the throttle body and the IAC. Thanks again for your advise.

Yes my e-fan does turn on while the A/C is on. Thanks for your advise and I will make sure to double check my IAC.

Hello everyone, I have a 1988 Jeep Comanche Eliminator, 2wd, 4.0 aw4 trans with about 86,000 miles on it. My truck will start every time and idle great at 800 /750 rpm when its cold but it fluctuates a little bit. With the AC turned off and the truck is at operating temperature the truck will idle at 500 rpm or lower at times and fluctuates a lot more. The truck drives completely normal until you come up to a stop light and the idle drops and acts like its going to stall but goes right back up to 500 rpm. When the idle is at 500 rpm It hesitates very little right when you take off but other than that it drives fine. The truck will not stall at all but it feels like it going to but it doesn't. This is when I am very curious. With the AC turned on and the truck is at operating temperature the truck will idle perfect at 750 rpm and will only occasionally fluctuate. I am just wondering what could cause the idle to be fine with the AC on and the idle to be low when the AC is off. Note: This low idle has just started happening right after I changed the fuel pump other than that it idle fine before the new pump. the idle has always fluctuated when I first got the truck but hasn't been a problem. What I have Changed so far: New Plugs/ wires New distributor cap/ rotor New coil IAC TPS CPS MAP censor New vacuum harness New fuel pump/ filter Any help will be great. Thanks.

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires? They are part of the secondary ignition system and carry a high load. Factory recommended every 60,000 miles. We replaced them at the dealer every 30,000 miles because they tended to fail before 60,000 miles and irritate customers. What if the coil wire or others has small brakes in that graphite coated string inside? Thanks for that helpful advise, good to know. Today I cleaned the throttle body and put on the IAC that I had just bought. I then started the truck and it started great so I drove it down the street and came to a stop with out stalling. I drove a little farther and turned around and noticed it was hesitating from taking off from a stop but would not stall. I started to drive it back home and I came to an abrupt stop and then the truck died. The truck usually starts back up but this time it would not start at all. I decided to unplug the coil wire and plug it back in and the truck started right back up. so I drove it back to the house and right before the drive way it dies again while slowing down. I decided to just replace the plug wires because the coil wire seemed bad. I just replaced the wires and it started right back up. I drove it around the block once and then I came to an abrupt stop, it didn't stall but it sputterd. I then came to another stop and it dies, but will start right back up. So the problem seems to be improving but it's still there. It now dies when coming to an abrupt stops, and it seems to be stalling now when the truck is starting to reach operating temperature. Thanks again for the help. My Tip 4 should not be overlooked. After reviewing this thread, a question comes to mind. Did we not strongly suggest you perform my Tips 1 through 5 thoroughly? Coulda missed that with suggestions of sensors to replace right off the bat..... found out my problem, broken coil. just put a new coil on and the truck drove perfect. Thanks you so much for all the help. I will continue to go through tips 1-5, I'm just glad I fixed it. Thanks again.

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires? They are part of the secondary ignition system and carry a high load. Factory recommended every 60,000 miles. We replaced them at the dealer every 30,000 miles because they tended to fail before 60,000 miles and irritate customers. What if the coil wire or others has small brakes in that graphite coated string inside? Thanks for that helpful advise, good to know. Today I cleaned the throttle body and put on the IAC that I had just bought. I then started the truck and it started great so I drove it down the street and came to a stop with out stalling. I drove a little farther and turned around and noticed it was hesitating from taking off from a stop but would not stall. I started to drive it back home and I came to an abrupt stop and then the truck died. The truck usually starts back up but this time it would not start at all. I decided to unplug the coil wire and plug it back in and the truck started right back up. so I drove it back to the house and right before the drive way it dies again while slowing down. I decided to just replace the plug wires because the coil wire seemed bad. I just replaced the wires and it started right back up. I drove it around the block once and then I came to an abrupt stop, it didn't stall but it sputterd. I then came to another stop and it dies, but will start right back up. So the problem seems to be improving but it's still there. It now dies when coming to an abrupt stops, and it seems to be stalling now when the truck is starting to reach operating temperature. Thanks again for the help.

No I didn't change the plug wires because they didn't seem like a problem Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go. No plug wires?

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school. Slow down a bit here. Did you adjust the TPS per my instructions? Have you ever performed a throttle body cleaning? How long since new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Engine vacuum harness intact? Intake manifold bolts loosened up? Also, I would click on my link below and perform Tips 1 through 5 before chasing any more rabbits down the trails. Hello thanks for responding. I have not adjusted the TPS yet, been away from the truck for few days. I have never cleaned the throttle body, but changed the the rotor, cap, and plugs about 6 months ago and only have like 1,000 miles on it. I just replace the vacuum harness about 3 month, and I have not yet checked the intake manifold bolts if they were loose or tight. Thanks for the information and ill let you know hoe things go.

Ok so I bought a new TPS and just put it in the truck. I then started the truck and it started up perfect and idled fine. when I went to go drive it, it sputterd right away while I was in reverse. but still kept it's idle. It went into drive fine and as i gassed it and it cut out and died right away. The truck started back up and I put it in reverse so I can make it back in my drive way. It cut out really bad and died but I was able to coast back in the drive way. When I tried to start it up again it didn't start at all. I checked the full pressure and it was good but other than that i'm lost because the truck will turn over but not get a good spark. any help would be great. trying to fix it because its my dd and I need it to run before I go to school.

Thanks so much for the advise. I have not tried doing an abrupt stop but I have tried coming to a stop in neutral and it seemed to still die.

Hello, I have a 1988 jeep comanche eliminator. It has a 4.0 i6 with Aw4 trans with 82,000 original miles. I just put an all new champion 3 core radiator and put new battery cables on. I finally fix the overheating problem and drove the truck for a day and it drove better than ever. At the end of the day I went to the store and as I drove down the street the truck drove great, and as soon as I came up to a stop sign the truck dies in drive. I put it in park and it started right back up so I decided to head back home because the trucks never has done that before. on my way home it died about 2 more times only when coming to stops. I got home and decided to park it and try it again in the morning when the truck is cold. This morning the truck started just like it does everyday so I drove it down the street and when I got to the stop sign it dies. This is when the truck is cold. right before it dies it sputters. The tachometer stoped working two days before this problem so I don't know what the idle is right before it dies. Any help would be awesome, Thanks.

Yeah I'm definitely going to change and bleed the brakes before I think about doing anything else on the brakes. The truck has been sitting for years when my grandma had it about 6 mounths ago but always went in to the shop to change the fluids. Now that I inherited the truck from her I am slowly tuning it up and fixing what needs to be fixed. The truck only has about 79,000 original miles on it and have been experiencing the brakes overheating and fading. I think that when it used the sit all the time that things are slowly failing now that I drive it everyday.

I definitely will look in to that. Thanks so much for the advice.

Hello, I have an 1988 jeep Comanche Eliminator used as a daily driver with an overheating brake problem. I just replaced the front disc with slotted rotors and new pads and also replaced the rear drum shoes to. The brakes work good until you go down hills. When going down hills I can start to feel the brakes fade and then the brake peddle goes to the floor with the truck slowly coming to a stop and I have to pull over because I have no brakes. Even when I pump the brakes that doesn't help ether. I don't ride my brakes and usually use engine braking. I was wondering if my master cylinder is going bad? The brake fluid is not that new but i'm going to bleed the brakes and put new fluid in. I heard that the brake boosters are bad in the 1988 jeeps? is that true or not? Any advise needed, Thanks.

I found many forums about the vacuum reservoir that where helpful. My plan is to try and relocate the reservoir in the engine bay so I don't have to worry about getting behind the front bumper. I have a couple more questions to ask. Could the vacuum reservoir cause a rough low idle if one of the vacuum lines was found unplugged? My idle moves up and down and won't hold a constant good idle. Idles around 650 to 700 RPMs. But it drives good with plenty of power and no power loss. and some say that its not good to drive the truck with the reservoir leaking, what could it hurt on your truck? Note: I don't have 4x4 but I do have cruise control that works but has a delay.

The dash has not been touched ever sense it was new. I am going to look every where else and leave the dash the last thing i need to check if needed. Thanks for the tips about the dash, i'm sure i'm going to need them in the future. On the other hand I did find out that the Vacuum line connected to the Vacuum Reservoir wasn't connected. Whats the easy way to get to the vacuum reservoir? I do know that its behind the bumper on the passenger side. Thanks for all the input.

Can you check the lines with out taking the whole dash off? If so how? and is the AC/Heater/vent controls locaded under the glove box?

Hello, my first post . I have a 1988 Comanche Eliminator and was wondering why when ever I turn on my air conditioner or heater it only comes out the defroster? The vents that are facing at you when in the truck seem to not be working. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or is it normal which seems kinda odd. Any input will help a lot, Thanks.