Dal3

I'm in southcentral Indiana. The problem was that a rod end spherical bearing retainer failed, Later I worked out a way to secure it with a twist tie. I'll watch it over time. A more reliable improvised retainer option could be to slot a short piece of polyethylene tubing, slip it over the rod end and press the ball through the slot. But the twist tie repair could hold up over time. I center-folded the twist tie at the narrowing point behind the ball and twisted it tight, 2 full turns. Then reassembled the ball end, wrapped the twist tie ends over it and twisted the ends tight over the length of the wires. This was one of the heavier bread bag twist ties. Dale

1989 Jeep Comanche 4.0: It's the linkage rod between the throttle body and the bellcrank below the throttle body. I have not been able to find one. Could you please tell me tell the part name, the P/N, or where I might get one Thanks, Dale

Mainly, would the snap ring issue be implicated in a 97 to 89 carrier only changeout. I am using the 89 Comanche for light to medium duty road use. Dale

I've corrected my error in the original post. I knew it should have read psi, but I'd just been considering checking the vacuum and goofed the post. I'll check the gauge and fitting and try a different gauge if something's amiss. I do believe I found the running problem at the resistor connection, but I'd like to look at the supply pressure while the procedure is fresh in my mind. Thanks, Dale

The engine would start as usual, but run for only 20-30 seconds then die. It seemed like a fuel supply problem and and the Troubleshooting section in the Haynes manual indicated this problem would be covered in the fuel supply section. It wasn't, specifically as far a I could tell, but I went through the test procedure, connecting a fuel gauge to a fitting on front end of the fuel return manifold and starting. The meter didn't deflect from the peg, either initially or when I removed the vacuum hose or when I pinched the return hose as instructed in the manual. I didn't feel confident enough in the gauge reading at that point to start disassembling the fuel supply lines. A search directed me to a discussion in this forum about a similar problem, where several possible electrical issues were discussed, including a defective "ballast" resistor. I found a resistor mounted on the driver's side front fender. When I pulled back one of the wires to bypass the resistor a (broken) connector lug pulled away from the resistor. I connected the leads together, started the engine and ran it for over a minute before I shut it off. At this point, my concern is the incorrect gauge reading. I'm not an expert and just learning the engine systems as I'm studying this problem. The pressure test equipment is a new-looking unit borrowed from an auto parts store. I doubt the engine would start at all if the 0 psi. reading were correct. So I'm wondering if there might be an error in the way I connected the gauge. I used the GM coupling that came with the kit. I didn't remove the check valve from the fitting on the truck, but I believe I was not instructed to. I have run the engine with the test assembly connected and there is no fuel leaking in the vicinity. Thanks, Dale

I've just read the posts to date. I see a difference of opinion about whether a 3.55 carrier will fit the 3:07. Otherwise the suggestions seem clear. In answer to a question posed to me about getting the welded gear and carrier apart. Some time ago I contacted a seller offering spider gears. He said due to metallic dissimilarity, these parts could be separated by striking the weld with a chisel. However, my friend asked the same question and said it looked like the welder really knew what he was doing. The welded areas would mostly be available for grinding through the cover opening. I understand I'm being advised here to put my efforts into upgrading to the Ford rear axle and I will study this soon. Would my Comanche wheels bolt to the Ford hubs? Thanks. Dale Myers OP

If there is data compiled on the site (or elsewhere) about general interchangeability of Jeep parts, someone please direct me to it. Project Status I plan to get used parts to repair the differential in my '89 Comanche. The right rear axle drive gear has been welded to the carrier and spider gears are missing. The differential i.d. plate is missing, but I counted the revolutions and the ratio is just over 3:1, which I like for fuel economy (I have the 5 speed manual trans). The ring and pinion seem fine. I was also unable to find the date code on the passenger-side axle housing. Available Parts I've found parts locally from 1994 and '95 Cherokees so I'd like to know which years might fit my '89 and which would not. I've read in these forums, I think, that Cherokee rear ends will fit the Comanche if the Comanche spring mount pads are welded to them. So I'd like to get a confirmation on this and also, are there exceptions? I'm also wondering about limitations to switching carrier assemblies in the Dana 35. The 1995 carrier assemblies available to me are 4:11s. A friend thinks carrier exchanges may be limited within certain output ratio ranges. If so, which carrier assemblies would interchange with my 3:07(?)?. My friend tells me not to reuse my funky carrier. I don't have the skill to mess with a ring and pinion, but he says installing a carrier within working tolerances is similar to adjusting tapered wheel bearings. Parts Car ? There is a wrecked 1995 Cherokee available to me. I will be needing additional parts, Including body parts. How useful could the available '94 Cherokee be, even beyond resolving the differential issue. Knowledgeable replies much appreciated. Dale Myers Central Indiana, USA

I'm in Bloomington Indiana. It sounds like these are pretty common, but I'd look at anything between Bloomingon and Peru Indiana. Dale.

Thanks for replies. I'm not an expert mechanic and just want to get the truck working well with the least modification. So, I gather should concentrate on Comanche, XJ, or Cherokee as donors, 4WD or RWD, as my Comanche is RWD. Should I limit my search to certain model years? Dale

Checking Craigslist last night I saw a just-listed 89 Comanche for $400. I called the seller and asked what repairs were needed and why he described it as rough since it looks great in the photos. He said the body had some dents and someone had welded up the rear-end. It would only pull with one wheel. (I'm not an expert, but figured there was a problem with the cluster or axle with some inappropriate repair work that could be fixed with a replacement full size Dodge truck rear end.) Everything he said checked out on-site and it was pouring rain. The Jeep was for sale for scrap price so I put my money down. So, doing a little research today it sounds like this is not a full size truck, but a small truck (optical illusion?) So, it's not clear to me yet which the donor vehicles are. I'd appreciate any help in steering me toward them. My commanche has the manual 5 speed inline 6 and I value fuel economy, but there will be occasional light towing. I don't have a computer and only get to check the email every day or two, but will follow the thread and respond as the need arises Thanks, Dale