RustInMyEye

That would work great as a seal but I was under the impression that it also helped stabilize the shaft.

yeah, thanks. I've used Photobucket to host my picturtes for the past 8 years. Now they've changed their policy and all my build threads are screwed. I honestly can't say I'll get around to fixing all the image linkes

Picture test. Photobucket can go to hell. https://goo.gl/photos/pcBbRN99ymvPu3sQ8 guess google image won't be the solution.

In the process of my extensive 88 to 97+ overhaul, I tossed the bushing or brace where the steering shaft passes through the firewall. After extensive searching I cannot for the life of me find where to get another one, or even what they are called. I'm sure there is one on ebay, but don't know what to search for. I don't think the 97+ jeeps use a bushing that bolts on. I like the idea of using the older version that uses 3 bolts. If you have ever looked though a 97+ conversion thread you will see what I'm talking about when the steering shaft hole needs to be moved. People re-drill these holes to move the bushing. Thanks

So In continuation of my goal to get the truck top down dried in, I welded up the back cab edge and a few sections of the floor that attach to it. My next step, basically the final step, in reaching top down dried in heaven (no tarps required to prevent rusting(but damn i forgot i broke a window)) will be the door sill area where the door attaches. To do this ill have to take the door off. I have the sill welded up to where the door starts getting in my way. That will be a rather easy job. Then the next step will be welding the floors in fully. I need a welding blanket to toss over my legs for the rest of the under truck welding. I want to weld it all on the outside and then just do some spread out welds on the inside and seam seal from the inside. I tossed on some lovely rust preventative spray paint, this week was blue. My plan is to sand blast, then POR15 the entire truck, then POR15 topcoat the entire truck. Then I'm going to lay seam sealer over areas like this. A nice FAT bead. Unlike your standard auto paints where they spray over the seal sealer POR needs to bond to the metal. Not many seams on the outside of the jeep will get it, but this back edge seems like a place that would collect water. Its nice that its in a spot that will never be seen.

yeah it bends pretty easily. I'm trying to use up all the extra metal i have piled up. The thicker stuff is also easier to weld. Helps prevent me from burning through so much. not going to use any bondo on this thing, so the thicker metals also giving my some grinding room to smooth things out. If I actually worked on this thing diligently It would have been done a year ago. I put in a couple hours a weekend now if that and then like recently a whole weekend opened up. But the work is easyier now, no more creative process all finishing stuff. So the progress is definitely more visual now.

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If I had a real prize you would win, i didn't even think of that.

Pictured is some of my past weekends work. Whoever can identify the most momentous accomplishment wins.

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Floors are to the point I would call done. Needs finish welding and small gaps filled. But that will be put on hold now. Drivers Passengers Both

So I had fun yesterday bending the rear tubes, when we all know I should be finishing those stupid floors and then the other body areas. Anyway, here we have it. I goofed and turned the windshield bar when i bend it, so they are bent at different orientations, that will be repurposed. The rear bars are dam good though. Best things we've bent so far actually. 25" on center from the B pillar to C pillar.

mo flo Passenger side nearly all done. just a few little spots left. went slow cause I didn't realize how much of the front frame stiffener wasn't welded. Needed to do that first. Just a little more left on the inner floor on the drivers side. and then all the little bits where my floor pans weren't perfect

Its been a while. But the planets aligned and I got a mild temped dry weekend without any other plans so the jeep got fondled. I put in the rear frame x member and removed the bars that were used to hold the frame square when it was attached. I also did all the finish welding to the rear frame and fish plates. Then i shot it with some primer to keep it fresh. Tomorrow ill be doing more floor $#!& could potentially finish the floors if it goes as well as today. Really need a piece of tube for the rear bumper. I also really want to bend a few more tubes but my brothers sick and doesnt want to do anything, lamo. Pics

sweet build, dude

Nice and cold out! perfect for working on a jeep. I bought a hole saw and made the steering shaft hole in the firewall. This nicely covers up my original hacked attempt. The outer floor on the drivers side was next. just need to make a few small filler plates. But its good for what it is. Then I moved the A piller around and got both the passenger and driver on. I'm happy with them. But then as i tried to move it forward the rear axle spun down and I dint investigate what really happened because it was starting to snow so I didn't look. But it basically stops rolling forward after 6 feet and something got locked up somehow in the rear axle. rolled back fine, just no more forward. oh well a worry fr another day. I like how it looks a litter further back. Look to the pictures one post up for the comparison shot.

yayyyy paint

Today I wasted time brewing beer instead of working diligently, but i got some done. I moved the roof halo to it sits where i want it. Then I tacked in the passenger A pillar. I think from the side it looks a little too far forward. I may move it back, closer to the door seem. But as is, it sits pretty tight to the body. You can take a gander at the pictures and let me know what you think. I'm going to rebend a new tube for the drivers side. I also did a good bit of cutting to different little areas of the inside of the cab. I'm basically trying to cut out as much factory stamped steel floor so that all my metal work can be simpler and use squarish plates to seal everything off, instead of any weird shapes. After that I did little bits of finishing welding around the floors.

i did the upper dash mounts for the 97+ swap and here were the lower mounts I also did a little welding to the floors. didn't get that much done since we bent up my brothers buggy today. Tomorrow ill try and get the firewall mods tightened up and then do more floor welding, and other finish welding steps.

I hung the dash. For the lower mounts I drilled and tapped a piece of 1/4 plate for a 3/8th bolt. Then I drilled three holes in the A pillar, one for the bolt and 2 for some spot welds. I then snuck the plates in there and welded them in. Still need to make plates for new bolt holes near the windshield but that will be pretty easy to line up when its in place.

A little more cage work today. Everything still needs a little tweaking, until its really where i want it. Drawing up the A pilar bars now.

You know, An update. Get the tie rod bent by a friend, DMR offroad if you want another parts option (http://dmroffroad.com/) Also ordered some normal tie rods ends from my local place. Also the cage is real. Main hoop bent up and its pretty good. First time ever bending anything. The halo, around the roof, is also bent but it was dark so no pics. Might be notched and tacked in place tomorrow morning and then the front A pillar bars will be bent up. Keep in mind this cage is multi- functional, Not meant to be the most badass offroad cage ever built. The hoop is totally flat across the top. I want this to be able to be used like a roof rack and later rack. Potentially a roof top tent might sit on it. anyway, I say this because most cages have a little bend in the middle of the top to match the roof lines better. anyway. and here's my brother and his big pipe between his legs

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You were too right about the offset tre's. They hit my 16" wheels when turned even a little, need to bend the tie rod. There goes 50 bucks