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railroad sam

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Everything posted by railroad sam

  1. Here was the culprit. Key cylinder had broken. Thanks for all the help. I do appreciate it. Railroad Sam
  2. So is there an actual switch like the one in the picture on top of the column? If so that's good to know. Thanks Olddude.
  3. So is there an actual switch like the one in the picture on top of the column? If so that's good to know. Thanks Olddude.
  4. I've tried starting in neutral. I think it's deep in the steering column. Some part that connects to the ignition switch and key. Thank you.
  5. I've tried starting in neutral. I think it's deep in the steering column. Some part that connects to the ignition switch and key. Thank you.
  6. Hello Jeep Folks, Reaching out for help here. Besides my 87 Comanche, I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee that will not start now. For a while it would start when turning key to start. Then doing same thing no start. So, with vehicle in park and emergency brake on, I would crawl underneath with screwdriver and start it. I noticed like when you turn key from run to start, that there is no spring action to return run after starting. I felt something give way inside. Anyway I replaced the ignition switch putting my key tumbler in new switch. Still no start. So everytime I go somewhere I have to crawl under and start it. My 87 Comanche key turns and moves actuator rod down to ignition switch mounted on steering column. The Cherokee doesn't have this type of switch or I'm not seeing it. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  7. Thanks for your suggestions. Yes I've tried starting it in neutral. Checked starter relay too. It's off and on starting. Works for days then nada. Let it sit awhile or overnight then might start or not. Next time no start. I'm going to leave key on, transmission in park and emergency brake on, crawl under with a screw driver and spark up the starter. My 87 MJ i used to have to do that. It was bad solenoid on engine wall. As far as the pins 85 and 86 that's over my head. I did pull relay, moved another one to starter slot and nothing, no start. Thanks again, Sam
  8. Yes I've checked the starter relay in the under hood fuse box. Even switched it with same size relay. Didn't help. Thanks
  9. Hello Jeep Folks, I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. 4.0L. 2wd, automatic. Sometimes the Jeep starts right up. Take a drive. Turn engine off. An hour later will not start. Stranded again. I'm thinking it's in the ignition switch itself. Unlike my 87 Comanche I don't think the Cherokee has a actuator rod going from key cylinder to actual ignition switch on steering column. In a no start situation with the Cherokee. I thought about leaving key in the on position and with vehicle secure from moving crawling under and try hot wiring to see if it will start. Kind of forgot how to do that too. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  10. Hey guys, I replaced the fuel injector with a new one. Starts up easily now. I appreciate all the advice on this. Thanks again, Railroad Sam
  11. Eaglescout526, I saw a video on how to test injector with a 9 volt battery. Injector definitely makes a noise or click. So guess it is good. Will get noid tester and check the wire to the injector. Will report on my findings with noid tester. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  12. Cruiser54, I want to thank you for all your advice. Also the hard work you put into on your tips page. Thanks again. I have since new a 87 Jeep Comanche. 2.5l. Truck was running great. Went to visit granddaughter a mile away jeep wouldn't start. Someone suggested replacing fuel starter relay. I disconnected battery. Put in new starter relay. Fired right up and got truck back home. It also restarted. Later in the day. Tried to start it. Starts, runs a second and dies. Well I tested fuel pump 15 psi. Good. New fuel filter installed. Pour gas in throttle body it will start. This was in March 2021. Now In August. I replace crankcase position sensor. I had had trouble like this before and the CPS was the culprit. Well I went ahead replace fuel pump. Put in throttle body kit. Including new fuel pressure regulator. I've cleaned the fuel pump ground, dipstick grounds, coil contacts, block to firewall ground, opened c101 up and cleaned it. Didn't splice it though. Surely after the throttle body kit it would start. Because when I disconnect fuel line and hit start gas is being pumped up to throttle body. So I thought it had to be fuel pressure regulator. Nope. Still won't start. Pour gas in throttle body and it will start. Like I've said I own a old Greenlee multimeter but have no clue as how to use it. Watched some YouTube on it. Didn't really help my specific model the man tested it's capacities until he fried it with great delight. Anyway thanks again for all you do, Railroad Sam
  13. Hello y'all, Been working on my 87 Jeep Comanche again. The problem was will crank and want start. Pour gas in throttle body and it will start until gas is gone. Since I've replaced the starter relay, new fuel pump and filter, crankcase position sensor and I even put a kit in throttle body with new fuel pressure regulator. Still no start. I've disconnected fuel lines and hit start. Gas goes every where. Fuel pump pressure is on spec of 15 psi. After rebuilding and cleaning throttle body I was hoping it would start. Big no. Doing same thing. Cranks and no start. Pour gas in throttle body and will start until gas is gone. I did some of cruising 54s suggestions. Cleaning fuel pump ground, block to firewall ground. Opened and cleaned c101 connector. I don't get what causing truck not to start. I'm no count with a multimeter. No clue how to use one. Wondering if my injector or ECM could be bad. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks for your help. Railroad Sam
  14. Thanks. I will try that. Have read your tips in the past. Not familiar with Tips 1 thru 5. Also not not good with a multimeter. Will give it a try. Out of town working right. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  15. Proud owner since new. Yes
  16. Well Men I replaced the fuel pump relay this morning. Fired right up. Got it home. Restarted and ran. Later went to start it. Doing the same thing. Starts for a second and dies. Cleaned the solenoid connections as well. Retried starting same thing. Thanks for everyone's input. Railroad Sam 1987 Jeep Comanche 2.5L 4WD Metric Ton Package. Original owner
  17. Thanks for all the help to those who answered. Will replace fuel pump relay a d let all know if we are up and running. Railroad Sam.
  18. Wow. That is something I will look into. I did notice also with fuel pressure gauge attached that immediately after turning ignition to off my 15 psi would went to zero psi quick. I will look for that relay and replace it. Thanks so much, Railroad Sam
  19. Truck will start for about a second or two then dies. Saw a video. Showed disconnecting battery and reconnecting might reset ECU.
  20. Thanks for reaching out with help. Yes I've disconnected both fuel lines one at a time to throttle body. Turn key to on and I'm getting fuel. Even dropped fuel line at filter. Turn key and getting fuel. Spliced in fuel pressure gauge at filter area. Get 15 psi right on spec. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  21. My 1987 Comanche 2.5L starts for a second then shuts down. Will do this countless times. Will not continue running. I have 15 psi fuel pressure. Have replaced filter. Also getting fuel to throttle body. Have cleaned crankcase position sensor. Ran great then this problem occurred. Any suggestions. I'm not a mechanic. Can do a little. Had this truck since new. Thanks, Railroad Sam
  22. Well had to replace brake light switch again. Failed state inspection. It's working again. Can only get brake light to work if I swivel the switch end toward driver down. Power booster rod end in switch is rounded. Like an eyebolt.
  23. I have a 1987 MJ Metric Ton 4wd. Bought it new. Having problem with ignition switch. Air conditioner, turn signals and radio will not work when truck is running. Engine on. With key in accessory position and engine off all the above works. Sometimes they will work in key off position. Thinking I need to replace switch. Have done it before. Just hard getting switch and actuator rod in right position. Any suggestions or words from experiance would be appreciated. Thanks Railroad Sam
  24. Gene, Thanks I will give that a try. Also use to back bleed brakes on my Harleys. May try that. Thanks, Sam
  25. Gene, Thanks I will give that a try. Also use to back bleed brakes on my Harleys. May try that. Thanks, Sam
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