ron47

Good tip! Thanks.....

Slightly off topic but I offer this bit of unsolicited wisdom as related to RV towing. I agree that disconnecting the drive shafts is the best way to tow and be assured that you do no damage. In my case, we tow to an RV park several hundred miles from where we began, spend a few days and do it all again. Disconnecting in my driveway is easy but I never know what kind of surface (hot asphalt, mudholes, etc) I may be dealing with on the other end. Similar issues with a trailer, although a lot of rv'ers use them, is that once you reach your destination (which is usually a fairly crowded campground) you must find a space to stow the trailer. At least now I know how to get the Comanche to tow without tearing up the drive train. This forum is The Schitz when it comes to real-world knowledge and solutions. Being a noob, I appreciate not having my face slapped for asking questions that all the old timers already know the answer too. May your beverages always be cold and your tires always gain traction.

Can't believe I forgot to ad the most important data point! Yes, 4WD with the "2H-4H-N-4L" manual lever. Thanks for the info. <thumbs up>

No owner's manual, so no info readily available. Is there any reliable way to determine if my 1990, automatic tranny, 4.0 Comanche can be flat-towed behind an RV?? Thanks

Guess I'll take up CeeGar smokin for this project. :-) Thanks for the advise.

My AC works great but under even slight acceleration or load on the engine, the output air flow all but stops. I figure it is vacuum related but don't have a clue where to start poking and proding the old gal. Any advise or instructional link will be appreciated. R Smith 1990 4.0, auto