Speedbump

I have a Detroit TT in the front (D30) and a 8.8 with factory LS in the rear. In normal driving it is all but invisable. Winter driving is fantastic with only minor qurks (just about unstoppable in snow). Icy conditions are where it may be noticable, but only minor. It is not a locker, but for a mostly street truck I am very happy. Just for referance, My D30 is permanently engaged also.

Well, I finally found some time. Seems the clutch disc sheered at the spline. I have never had a clutch disc fail that way before. It just spins freely inside itself. You can't see it in the picture but, the fingers that connect with the springs are gone. Also of interest, There appears to be no pilot bearing. Anyone know how much damage there might be with the trans input seal? Well I am off to get a new clutch - anyone want a good used pressure plate? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Purchased a MINI to commute with because the MJ gets, at best, 15 mpg. The wife kept refering to it as a speedbump in the driveway. It just stuck.

Yes, it is an internal slave and I am sure it is NOT a BA10. Given the above, that leaves the AX15. We just got it home and drained the fluids. Both the transfer and transmission fluid look new, no metal or even discoleration, nice clean fresh fluid. They were changed in Nov. When the trans is put in gear and the clutch engaged, the truck does not move but, the noise is terriable, again, just from the bellhousing. When the clutch is depressed, the noise goes away. Just as a side note; I can push the truck, with it shut OFF, in netural or in gear, no differance except, in gear there is a scraping/grinding coming from the bellhousing. I am going back to the clutch/pressure plate failing somehow. There was and is no fried clutch smell so I am looking at a mechanical failure I think. It will take me several days to pull the trans as the snow is on the ground and I have to work outside. I will get back as soon as I have them seperated. Thanks for the help everyone.

I had totally expected it to be either the trans or Transfer, based on what happened, but was totally thrown by the noise coming from the bellhousing. When I get it here I will start with your advice, it make great sense. Thanks

Not sure if it is a AX5 or AX15 but I know the PO had swapped transmissions in my 90 w/4.0. No info about year or mileage. Yesterday It failed without warning. Started with a grinding on a 2 gear shift (normal driving) and continued to get worse. I tryed to limp home but ended up without anything. Tomorrow it will come home but for now I'm looking for a direction/advice on possibilities. Currently, If I hold in the clutch all is fine, no noises. If I try to engage the clutch, all I get is grinding and nothing moves. Makes no differance if in gear (any gear) or netural. I had expected it to be the transmission, but "All the Noise" comes from the clutch area. Depressing the pedal feels normal and appears to work normal. I have never had a clutch fail and until I get it home to pull things apart I can only guess. Is a clutch failure as described, without warning, suddenally just giving up the ghost and perhaps the rivits grind? Or will the trans noise appear to come from the bellhousing area. Appreciate the advice.

Thanks for the help. I think the TT's win for my use. Now to see if I can pull off the swap. Come winter I will be looking for some new found advantages. Although the detroit is awsume in the dirt, I am sure it would have been tuff for the white stuff.

Not too long ago, I swapped for another MJ and now have a D35/4.10 with a Detroit. I have been scouting a stronger axle and believe that I now have located a D44 and, having saved just enough for the redo. I really am not getting offroad much, so that is the thought on the TrueTracs front and rear. But I suddenly thought "a rear selectable may be a better choice" (keeping the front as is). This is New England and winters are a consideration (the Detroit, for the street, is already creating issues). Anyone run TT,s front and rear? Additionally, I am running 31's and like that size but, wonder if a little deeper to 4.56 would be worth the gain (if I do both front and rear the cost would be easier when doing the TT's. Essentilly, 4.10 with rear selectable, or 4.56 with TT's f & r. Any opinions?? Thanks for the sounding board.

Just this past year I did two MJ's, it is really not too bad. The tank is availably from your local parts shop or online. Get new starps with it, they were cheap. The bigger issue was the fuel pump. I reused the old one on one of the MJ's, a new o-ring came with the tank. The other MJ, I had to ge a new fuel pump for and kept getting the wrong one. I finally had to modify it to fit. Be careful of the hanger bolts but, just replace the straps(cut them off, slide the bolts out and break them free at the vice). I had a huge issue with the factory skid plate bolts. The captured nuts in the bed rail broke free and it took me all day to remove the 6 bolts that held the skid plate on. If your not in the rust belt area, should not take too long. Be careful of the fire risk-use caution where needed.

Were there more than one (AW4) auto's? I have just started a build on an '88 with a colum shift Auto and assumed it was a AW4.

I'm bad - miss read the cataloge which was specificing the cables. both sb & lb are same. Thanks for the wake up call. (the ruber line being replaced with a longer one).

Both my E-brake cables are frozen. In looking for replacements, they appear specific to SB or LB. For the winter I will be stock but come spring my '88 SB will be lifted 3-4". Will useing the LB cables help with the future lift or just stay with the SB and address the bracket if needed? I can not find the differance and am "making the leap" that the length is the differance. Thanks.

The Hidden Hitch reciever mounted up fairly well but, when reinstalling the new bolts for the reciever in the factory location (it sandwiches the bumper brackets) it appears that the captured nuts (inside the frame) have broken free and are rotating. I can not torque them at all. Other than cutting thru the bed, down into the frame rail, has anyone got an idea or fix.

Having trouble finding a fuelpump/sending unit. I keep getting one with the float going the wrong direction. It is for a '91 SB 4.0. I have replaced the tank and would prefer not to put the old "rusty-possiable leaking" sending unit back in. The dealer says it is discontinued, NAPA can not get it, and Advanced tried 3 different units all with the float/pick up going the wrong direction.