ComancheBSJ90

Thanks to all for sharing the wealth on knowledge. I decided to not put any unnecessary stress on my window installers and continue to use the metal trim, but mine being in poor shape I wanted to buy new black metal trim. I've made call after call and word is is that they don't make it anymore. Is there a place on the Internet that you know I could order it from? I live in Canada, but any suggestions would be helpful... Yes I already searched Ebay, Thanks again :) This message is for those who had ordered new metal trim, other wise I will do my research and post the results or give up and go plastic.

On a 1989 Jeep Comanche. I was interested in swapping the metal trim for the plastic used on XJs. Can some one tell me what year XJ is compatible with my truck. For those who had converted, is it worth the hassles to try to convince the glass people that it can be done. And do I just need the rubber trim from the XJ or is there other hardware from the XJ that I also need? Part Numbers!!! Thanks in advance for sharing the knowledge :D

If I were to use it, my setup would be exactly like yours. I plugged it in and tested it with a multimeter and it looks to be working, although I could not use the other square connector as a test port. Maybe NOT interchangeable, but why do you guys say that an Automatic Trans. TPS could not be used on a Standard? It does produce a smooth voltage reading from Zero V. to 5 V. and it does fit. Just curious on the big NO, Thanks.

While at the junk yard I grabbed a couple TPS sensors from automatics. On my manual 5 speed the TPS only has one connector, whereas the ones I grabbed have 2 connectors. These two connectors look as though they are piggy backed together inside the TPS (same number & color of wires). I want to know If I can use these TPS sensors on my truck and if I can set up the TPS by using that extra connector to dock my multimeter. My wire harness does connect to one of those two connectors. Thanks again for any suggestions, you guys are a great help!

Thanks for your quick reply. I've been reading that aftermarket masters are junk. This one is a Girling 75 A 74661049 Is this original stock, it looks really new. thanks

My 1989 jeep Comanche clutch master cylinder is leaking on the fuse box. When at the junk yard I grabbed one from a Jeep Cherokee which I do not know the year but it is the full cast metal one that looks to be for 1991 and newer models. I have the one with the plastic cup and wanted to know if they were interchangeable? Thanks

The Link you referenced is for Bosch Part #0280150943 Injectors, not the Ford! Or are they the same injector? Click on the link in this post I made earlier. The injectors are Ford Motorsport injectors and are used in many applications, not just Mustangs. The link that I provided is the injectors that are needed for the '87 - '95 4.0L Jeep. :cheers:

Hello you guys, gals. if I order those Precision Auto Injectors, for my Comanche, are the 87-95 Jeep Cherokee Comanche Wrangler 4.0L Injectors the same thing as orange Ford Mustang injectors. If they are not should I order the jeep injectors or the mustang injectors? thanks again

OK. I'll buy distilled water, good coolant, pH test strips, baking soda, and my new radiator, flush the system till I can drink it, then retest and hopefully my results will be closer to hornbrods' Yes, the H20 I was using was tap water and coolant was from Canadian Tire.

Dammit, but thanks for the heads up

I did check the coolant with the positive cable removed from battery and I get about 0.56 volts. Also, with the positive battery cable removed if I put the negative end of DVM in coolant and positive end on + battery terminal I get 12.70 volts, close to what I get if I test the battery for voltage. If the radiator is isolated from the truck electrical ground what good is it if the coolant grounds it anyway, as noted above? There are two leaks on right/left side of rad. where the small coolant channels enter the tank both at the top. Pin holes with white-ish corrosion. I assume then that if electrolysis is creating a 0.56 volt and with the battery connected I get 0.64 volts then I have 0.12 stray current or maybe the battery strengthens the reaction. Research I did, some say under .5volts is acceptable others say anything over 0.05volts is unacceptable. man, this is confusing me. I think then I will get the new rad, flush the system out, install, then retest!

I was curious on what the normal is for stray current being present in our MJ's cooling system, and what likely will cause these currents and prevention or reducing stray current. With a DVM when I put the positive lead in my over flow tank submersed in coolant and ground the negative lead to block I get 0.64 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. If I put one lead of DVM to radiator housing and other to block I get 0.23 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. My new radiator is already leaking after 2 months from this electrolysis and I need to lower this stray current before I replace under warranty. I suspect the radiator guys with test for Stray current seeing how it started leaking so fast and tell me... sorry... Are there any ground straps that are known issues. Please you guys, it's an easy test with DVM or Analog volt meter test with ignition ON & OFF.

Alright, I admit I was heading north, so took your advise and moved south. I cleaned all the bulb sockets and redid the ground point with no change. I noticed the fuse panel had DOT 3 oil contaminating the fuse connections, and sprayed it out real good. Put in the 15Amp tail light fuse and instant success. I believe it was the combined cleaning that made this work. Thanks for all the suggestions, that was great.

I thought it was the switch but after testing the new and old switch they both tested continuous with closed circuit. ---Sorry I'm a little hammed--- I get 11.75volts with ignition ON at switch wires. I traced the large wire bundle out through fire wall, from the cab, to front drivers head light. Noticed slight coolant leak through new radiator on side where wire bundle goes to head light. Had a brain wave about in certain conditions that radiator could act like an electric cell and corrode itself as a by product... due to electrical short. Researched the net... no results. Put negative end of volt meter to radiator and positive to any ground point in engine compartment and I get 0.23 VOLTS, ignition ON or OFF. My Instrument panel fuse blows out on high engine load, loosing dash lights. I had a theory that that wire bundle is grounding out as it traverses the front of truck, but then would not I need put the positive lead of voltmeter to rad and neg to block to get positive reading? Hammered... I mean confused. Any suggesting would be great as I'm off tomorrow and would love to get this figured out. thanks

I have stock rims/tires if anything I might upgrade to 16" rims, but that's a long shot. It must be that HO motor you have in your 94. My shift points don't come close to yours. Now I need to see my RPM values if I were to drive like you.... test drive.... If I were to drive: 15mph in 3rd rpm 600 25-30 in 4th rpm 800-1200 35-40 in 5th rpm 800-1200 It may be do-able but in 3rd gear the engine would be lugging! Normally I drive: 1 gear to 12.5mph @ 2000rpm 2 gear to 25mph @ 2000rpm 3 gear to 38mph @ 2000rpm 4 gear to 50mph @ 2000rpm 5 gear to 62+mph @ 2000rpm Are you driving like that to save gas?

Yes that is right I have 3.07 / 3.08 gears. Now I wonder if its worth it to get TrueTracs with this gear ratio or up the gears and only get a TrueTrac in the rear. Or use four Low off road and get the truetracs!! Options, Options! What gears would be good all around for light 4x4 ing and daily driver. With the ones I have I notice that when in the deep snow I can't get it started in 4hi unless I'm a little hard on the clutch so now I just automatically shift to 4lo. yes, I did verify the gears with the tags, and I changed my gear oil last week, but was not thinking of this modification. Thanks for the Information,

I have a 1989 Comanche 4.0L 5 speed, and wanted to buy Detroit TrueTracs for front and rear, but I need to know the gearing to buy the right model. I did search but 125 posts to read through made me give up, I do remember seeing it here somewhere. Numbers for the read diff: Dana 115.1 1l032C Dana CG42828 P8L523 43 14 Front: Dana 122.1 Are they on that rusty pumpkin plate or that disintegrating metal tag? If I had a location I may be able to scrap of enough rust to read. Thanks

I live in Yukon Canada, no testing here. If i did use the cover plate I remember reading that poor gas mileage may occur and/or a hotter engine temperature. Anyhow I just order one for the dealer for 160 bucks with transducer and gasket.... Just in case. Thanks for the replies

I removed the EGR valve last night to clean and noticed that the pintle was missing! Since the truck appears to run good with no signs of vacuum leaks is it necessary to have a functioning EGR valve? Thanks

Alright, I fixed it! It must of been that splined collier that locks the two axles together was only rubbing with the other axles' splines. I shimmed the CAD fork as documented , and moved and locked using the C-clip. To my surprise this shimmed it to keep the axles unlocked (different setup as documented?) so i painfully slid it back as original and put hot glue on all the vacuum holes so it could not slide. I also plugged the vacuum lines, but now my Part-Time light does not come on! More reading... Thanks for all the help, again. Hopefully this will help some one in the future, Mike

I opened up the shift fork lever cover and noticed that one of the plastic nibs on one side of the fork was broken in two. If I leave it will there be problems with metal to metal friction between the fork and 'lock gear'? (if the other one breaks!) thanks

I could swear on it that my Four-Wheel-Drive was engaging but last night when traveling up a hard snow packed hill (in 4x4) I lost traction but kept the wheels spinning for a while. Upon inspection I had cut two wells in the snow with my rear tires and none up front!!! This is surprising in two ways because I know I have an open rear differential which should only left one well. (explanation?) Once I get my front axles to engage in 4x4 mode I'm hopping that my original problem will also be fixed. Any suggestions will still be help full, thanks

Thanks for the read. A day later I dropped another 5 amp fuse in and this time the instrument panel worked! I guess I'll have to route through the wiring to find the short and take suggestions from that Link, thanks again.

I was experiencing a short which was burning out the taillight and instrument panel fuse. I located the short in the driver side blinker lamp socket wiring and fixed it. That fixed the problem. Now One month later after my engine heated up to 110C the Instrument panel fuse burnt out again. Replacing the fuse just burns it out. I tried to put a 7.5 amp in place of the 5 amp Instrument panel fuse and that blew out the Tail Light 10 amp fuse. Are there any known issues with the Instrument panel wiring and or wiring that would lead to my problems? Other then ripping the dash apart where would an obvious place to start? A melted wire sheath that hit the overheating block? A good place to start with a voltmeter? Thanks you guys for the suggestions... One day my baby will be flawless... I hope!

I installed the cheap-o MotorRad Canadian Tire Thermostat and now the cooling system is running beautifully. That's funny, when looking on the CT computer screen thermostats for Comanche came with or without a Jigger valve, I bought it with out not knowing its purpose. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and timely responses :) Mike