jeep_freek88

hmmm well it says 5sp in the add ill call him

Well I went to look at the F-250 for sale and It isn't worth much. It's Just a huge rust pile with everything broken on it and missing parts.....Dude said he wanted $750 for the whole truck, but For $750 I could buy a 1974 jeep j10 5sp 258ci 4x4 in running condition that I found for sale buy chance I'm thinking about that now. So Any thought on 1974 jeep j10 4x4 ????? :brows:

No the tubes aren't bent. I didn't have the problem until I put in new ball joints in .........I think the lower ball joint split ring needs to be adjusted but I am not sure as to where it needs to be. I think that if I 'tighten' it (screw it in) it would lower the whole hub and make the axle strait, but I'm not sure if thats what I should do or what so...........yea I just don't know :???:

hmm I don't think thats it. They are just sitting to high and rubbing the little flange on the axle

The pumpkin is split in like 5 pieces it is unrepairable unfortunately, so I figure It is at least worth the engine and transfer case because it has a divorce mount transfer case and a 360 engine. Hopefully the F-250 for sale is a highboy I could put like 36" tires under it

Hmmmmmmmm I don't know Jim I guess ill take it apart and mess around with it for a while take some crude measurements and such and other input would be good too thanks again. :cheers:

The truck that is free is messed up body wise and the axle is hard to find because the axle is discontinued so I want to buy the truck and put the free trucks engine in it or possibly a 460 that he has laying around but idk gas is not cheep. The truck for sale has disc brakes on the front axle Does anyone know if the 1975 f-250 high-boy came with disc brakes?? :brows:

Ok. Well I just screwed them into where the stock ones were and the front axle rubs so I'm Just not sure what to do so any help would be great :cheers:

the problem i have is that my axle rubs in the tube so if I tightened it from the bottom it would in theory bring my axle down where it needs to be???????

what does the lower ball joint sleeve adjust when in stalling new lower ball joint? the sleeve that screws into the knuckle....... I need help my tire shop is retarded........

:eek: O Well good find though :cheers:

So my dad-in-law has a 1975 ford f-250 sitting out in his field he said I can have for free it is complete and has a running 360 engine......here is the catch the front axle is broke so I found A dude that has another complete broken :fool: 1975 ford f-250 in his field and he will sell for like $700 maybe less however it has a blown engine see where I'm going with this................any thoughts ...... I just don't know if I can justify another project.....

For all of you who are wondering what I did for ball joints here you go. I bought moog upper and lower for both sides upper 57.99 each lower 52.99 each Total= 221.96 so yea I hope I never have to do ball joints againg. They are a pain in the you know what .........thats right the wallet!! but they are made in the :USAflag: with a Liftime Warranty props to moog for being so confident

So I used a brass punch between the hub bolt and frame (instead of a socket) and a slide hammer. finally got the stupid thing off now my truck sits taken apart waiting on moog ball joints sigh I should have listened

So I was told not to cheep out on ball joints and to buy moog. So what did I do. Thats right I cheeped out and am now paying for it. I bought McQuay-Norris Ball Joints For 29.99 a piece and you guessed it they don't fit right. so I am returning the cheep ones and i have moogs on order they will be in on Monday. So a word from the Not-So-Wise listen to those wiser than you and don't be a cheep skate because you will pay :oops: :bowdown:

so the clip won't fit on the top of the lower ball joint should i just forget about it because the stock one didn't have a clip

I can't get the Hub out so I can get the knuckle out so I can get the ball joints in. Any ideas on getting a stuck hub out I need help!!!!! :mad:

Ok I have all my parts. U-joints, upper,and lower ball joints and required tools I am going to put them all in tomorrow....Any last minute words of wisdom? :???: Thanks for all the help. :cheers:

Wow I think my dad had to much to drink that night :beerhead: No way that is real lol :fool:

What about McQuay-Norris Ball Joints? Does anyone have an oppinion on this brand? They also have a life time warrenty and metal sleves. :dunno:

yea I plan on putting new U joints in too if I put in brand name ball joints it will be like $100 more Ill just put moog in and pay the money. master pro have nylon sleeves forget that bull moog have bronze that sounds better

well there is three wires one being hot one being constant ground and one being the door ground so I wired the constant ground line to the lights because they have a switch on them

my driver side door switch does not work.

Do the low profile ones have a switch or do you just turn them on with the headlight nob?? or does the door turn them on only??

Yea for sure Ill post pics of all my kills in the pub this year :cheers: