joedrives2fast

I've set up gears with replacement parts. like stock ratio using parts that I bought for that app. I might be overthinking and I have never set up gears in a jeep so I don't know first hand what the D35C carrier looks like. So really with these questions I'm trying to save me some time by not pulling it apart to see that I can't do it. I know what to look for but with as many crazy swaps you can find on the internet you never know. I'll rephrase my question. On a D35C are the spider gears recessed for the C clips or does it use the same carrier as the non cliped. Has anyone tried this before. And if you have what did you find out. I have a 3.07 stock gear ratio now. There's a Mud bog this weekend and I was hoping to weld some spiders and snap an axle then get it home and go on with life.

Could I still use the Carrier? It's a 4.10:1 and I want to use it next weekend if I have to run the Clip axles I'm ok with that but I really want that gear ratio and I don't want to put money into a worthless axle

I came across a 4cyl cherokee and went crazy to get the axle carriers and I didn't realize that the thing was an 84 so it has the non c clip axles. So once I got there I was too stubborn to go home empty handed so I pulled everything any way and was wondering if this will work coming out of a D35 into a D35C

Are those control arm measurements bolt hole center to center or overall length. I want to check mine to see how close they are

I think I paid around 50 bucks for my slider seal from a dealership

My 91 seems to have an open system. I'm not sure though. Is this something they started in 91 or did the previous owner do it. I have an over flow tank. My temp sensor is on the thermostat housing. and I have the heater by pass valve. This is my first MJ. My old man has a 96 XJ but I never really paid that much attention to the details. I keep finding weird stuff on my MJ that doesn't quite add up.

I would like To add to the question. For deep mud like mud racing would you suggest tall skinny tires or short fat tires.

It sounds to me like maybe an ignition module. If you did have a bad coil at one point it can cause problems in the module. Heat can make these arise. I wouldn't suggest running out and buying one but if you could find a buddy with one who would let you run it for a while it may help. It would be nice if you could find some Noid lights to make sure your injectors are getting a signal to fire. They are like little light bulbs you plug into the injector harness so you can see the signal. As far as fuel filter it's an easy swap and well worth the time and piece of mind. One last sparing possibility is the sock on the bottom of the fuel pump. Luckly you don't have to drop the tank to take the pump out but make sure your under a quarter tank. The sock on the bottom of the pump will only get real nasty and cause problems if the truck sat for a while and built up some rust. Or if you got sand in your tank.

Sorry no pic's and a really long post right out of the box do I get something for longest first post :popcorn:

I just replaced my rear glass on my 1991. There is definitly urathane adhesive there. I have a few years of body shop experince before I did my window and it wasn't too hard. I went to napa and bought the windshield urathane it was about 15 bucks a tube. I bought 2 and have 1 left over for the front when I get around to it. I also called the Jeep dealer and got a brand new factory gasket for around the window which cost me about 55 dollars. Now to the fun part. I think when you go to pull out the window out of your good MJ you'll definatly notice where the glue is. Try your best to get a utiliy knife to cut the bead of glue around the glass. That is the hardest part. Once you get the old glass out you'll want to cut the bead of old urathane down to about 1/8th of an inch above the pinch weld. The new glue will stick better to the old glue than to the old paint. Now put that gasket on the glass going into the truck and get some duct tape ready. Your going to want to heat that adhesive up a little. We just had a bucket of sand with a heat lamp on our tubes the whole time but about 90 to 105 is about the right temp. To heat mine I put them in a camp pan filled it with water and set a blow torch next to it and took them out when they were a little hot to the touch. You'll need a caulk gun put the tubes in there and pierce the end. now put the tips on the tubes and cut a V to lay a bead. This is TRICKY BUT WORTH IT Start your bead on the bottom center on the truck. Try to leave one steady bead all the way around the frame on that old glue with out stopping. This will prevent leaks. If you do get a break in the bead overlap and start from the break. Have a buddy handy for the glass install and make sure the windows are down and the doors open. Once the bead is layed stick the glass up to the bead and press it in until it looks like it's in the right spot and then TAPE THE SH1T out of it to hold in place. As that urathane cures it has a tendency to expand which will make your glass alignment off. I hope you opened your doors so you didn't tape your truck shut. About the windows being down I have never tried but I heard the air pressure of a closing car door is enough to push out a freshly placed glass I guess better safe than sorry. Now wait about 1.5 hours to drive and I left my tape on over 24 hours and no leaks. Good luck!!!