TajMan

Good thats what I was looking for, I'll try that.

Haha unfortunately I've already been through hell on this truck and I'm already WAY past the point of finally can drive the thing, and its the only running vehicle I have besides a sportbike. If anything tell me a fire extinguisher is a must. :oops: I already changed out the wiring harness in the engine bay. I'll see what I can find if I get into the steering column. I'll probably hotwire a different horn up so one works. I'm more interested to know about the blower for air, like even- where is the fan motor located?

My blower for heat/vents/defrost/etc doesn't work. The 25A blower fuse was bad, I replaced and fuse didn't melt again, but still no air blowing. What to do from here? My 10A dome fuse was blown. If you try to replace it, inside fuse just melts instantly again. Where to trace wires for that, what does this fuse enable anyway? I need to wire up a dome light, none in the cab. My horn doesn't work. Dome fuse? Wiring in this truck was pretty damn messy. One wire coming from behind fuse panel was melted through.

I'm to the point now I'm ready to take a grinder wheel to the inside of the steel door (door panel cut off) to cut away material around the latch to see what can be done from there. :mad:

The bar that unlocks goes back and forth, does nothing. Using the key on the outside does nothing.

My passenger's door is shut, won't open from inside or out. Interior door panel is cut/ripped off now, pulling the rod does make a sound like somethings moving back at the latch, but still no door open yet. What can I cut/drill out/whatever to get the damn door open finally, then replace with junk yard parts after, etc. ?

I'll have good before and after pics of body for my paint job. Right now I'm working on U-joint, no idea how to get it out

Yes thank you, right it was really bad, and I said I have a new U-joint to replace now. Anyone have a how-to link on replacing, I can't get those little clips off for starters. Hard on a old rusted axle shaft?

U-joint definite problem I have a new U-joint here to replace it now, anyone have a link for how-to guide?

UPDATE** new / still issue With front wheels jacked up, you could easily tell the passenger's wheel was the one with prob. Replaced pass. hub/bearing. 3 bolts tight and axle nut tight on new unit. When you turn the wheel bolts by hand, you can still distinctly hear the clanking problem. It is not the wheel bearing but is coming directly from inside that area, like axle/other turning part the hub bolts on to. Hear is a phone video clip, can hear sound fine!: Can anyone tell me what my problem is, can I get axle/etc from junk yard to fix. It would really be best for me if I could get it fixed tomorrow (sat 27th) I'll be watching this.

I've got some metal patch stuff that says its ok against fuel (patching tanks) etc.

I gotta do things on the cheap for this project, not replace good fuel pump just cause I'm taking it out. I got a new fuel pump gasket at NAPA today anyway, asking them trying to diagnose. Just a paper gasket right? I guess I'll give that a try.

Autozone part ordered, coming in tomorrow. The noise has gotten worse and I'm more worried about driving the truck a long way to work tomorrow.. (part comes so I could fix after work) I can't believe there's not an easily identified worn part to diagnose front steering play / click when turning. I'm pretty certain its not just some loose bolt.

I filled my tank up $60 worth and then heard fuel spilling onto the ground. On passenger's side looking under bed I could see it spilling from fuel tank, around a circular area where feed/return lines come out. '87 truck had sat for 2 years. So what's the likely culprit rubber seal or gasket thats gone bad?

NAPA's part is $145, Checker expensive too Looks like I'll prob get a Valucraft part for $71 I've got stock suspension/wheels for now, I realize big offset wheels/lift can cause them to wear excessively. (BTW I think they went bad with vehicle sitting in the same spot for 2 years)

Hmmm Or Autozone Valucraft units for $71 (90 day warranty vs. $145 for 1 year warranty part)

Couple things #1 My 87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 has a click, usually just once sometimes twice, when you're turning the steering wheel/wheels for a left turn. Steering gear boxes-pitman arms-tie rod ends...... just some worn steering component I don't know truck steering systems. Left turn click, anyone? 1a. What can be replaced to reduce play between the steering wheel moving and wheels actually turning? #2 I believe I have a bad front wheel bearing/hub. I understand these are expensive items (like $140), and hard to remove. I want to pull one myself from a Cherokee in the pick-n-pull junk yard. Are ALL Cherokee/Comanche units the same, and what tools can I use to get an old one off in the junk yard?

Junk yard fuel injector did it! Still plenty of things to address, but motor runs just ok now thanks guys.

Thanks man! Swapped with #2, yep its a bad fuel injector. There was even some corrosion on the electrical connection of that injector. I'll grab one from the boneyard now. Awesome, thank you sir I have a horrible memory but I remembered that when I was in the garage. :D LETTING A CAR SIT FOR YEARS DOES MORE DAMAGE THAN YOU THINK! For this one: -bad fuel injector -bad coil -bad brakes -exhaust leak -lower compression in 1 cyl Not the first car I've revived after sitting for years either.

Replaced one spark plug that looked like wasn't firing, symptoms still the same. With engine running, pulled plug wires to see difference. Pulling cyl #1 wire made no difference, all others did as should. So #1 cylinder not igniting, but good plug & plug wire IS getting sent spark I got shocked by it. That cylinder had 125psi compression. This leads me to believe fuel injector not opening (I just swapped that wiring harness). So, attempting to test fuel injector wire voltage now. Does anyone have a pinout for main ECU connector wires & the #1 fuel injector, in case I have to jumper wire that?

Long story but in a nutshell: '87 truck, Head rebuilt, bottom end MAY not last but giving a try, finally got spark and got it started. Feels like its running on 5 cylinders. Did compression check: 125, 115, 120, 120, 120, 120 #1 spark plug looked like it might not have been igniting. So it has compression, ALL ignition components are new, what can cause 1 cylinder not to fire-fuel injector not opening? What should I test for with volt meter on fuel injector plug wires to see about this? Anyone have a spark plug wire routing diagram to be 100% certain? I'm 99%.. What can cause tapping noise from engine, continue tapping for awhile when engine is turned off!?

I had good analog volt meter testing so a 1.5 volt battery would swing the needle 1-2 CM, but on the CPS cranking it moves up maybe .5 MM Car was running when parked 2 years ago. Yes they are the correct bolts holding the CPS with that "shank".

BUMP any differences in new sensors that could cause one still not to read anything?

Tip for those in future: Take that shield half-off, use a piece of tie wire fishing around in gap along bottom of flywheel, you'll be able to get that bolt out. I did it TWICE lol New CPS installed, I used volt meter and cranked engine over again. IT DOES NOT SHOW ANY READINGS as engine goes around! Maybe like the bad one, needle moves ever so slightly up and stays there while cranking--but not pulsing and not .5V. Possible that I need a slightly different part number than the new Niehoff sensor that I got?

Its very easy to drop the top bolt from the sensor INTO the tranny bellhousing isn't it. It dropped somewhere, can't find, then realized from above that the hole's right there underneath it. If you remove the shield on the bottom front of the tranny, does the bolt fall down past the TQ easily so you can grab it?