azjeepfreak

Ooops, extra bonus points for being able to spell points. (not Pionts)

Amendment to the rules: Points will be deductucted if you recieve a wave from any one driving a Commander, Patriot, or Compass. You may regain lost pionts by looking the other direction and refusing to wave back. Bonus pionts may be earned if: While looking them dead in the eye, you shake your head with an obvious look or digust and distain, and return their wave with one finger.

Can't cover the painted with the new tape. Tape is clear so the painted stripes would show up underneath. I had the same suugestion from another Jeep board. I do however want to thank everyone for their advice on this. What I eneded up doing was using a Teflon pot scrubber made by 3M. It's called "Dobie" It's made to not scratch teflon, so it works well on paint as long as you don't go nuts with it. Added some acetone to the scrubber, and it took the stripes right off. Did the whole truck in about 45mins. Like TNT's suggestion, I did have to wax it afterwards to seal it back up, but it looks great. Thanks again everyone for comming through with so many suggestions. Shows a true Jeep community.

This past weekend, I went to 3 different stores to get everyting I needed. Plastic scrapers, heat gun, and 2 different sets of decals I want to combine. Then spent a long time washing all the mud off the Jeep and getting it really clean. Unpacked everything in the garage and got it all set up and ready to go, and then the "Dumb-@$$" factor set in. My pinstripes are PAINTED on! I've never had that on any vehicle, they've always been decals. It never even occured to me to check 1st. Aaaarrrg!! Do any of you guys know of a way to remove painted pinstripes without damaging the paint below? Any help would be appreciated.

TOOL DEFINITIONS A comprehensive list of tools and their uses, for anyone who ever wondered what a specific tool was and what it was used for. A “Must-have” for all home mechanics. 1. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your pop across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying. 2. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "SH##!!!" 3. ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. 4. PLIERS: Used to round off hexagonal bolt heads. 5. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle: It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. 6. VISE GRIP PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. 7. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a wheel hub you're trying to get the bearing race out of. 8. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. 9. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new disk brake pads, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. 10. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 4X4: Used to attempt to lever an automobile upward off a hydraulic jack handle. 11. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing splinters of wood, especially Douglas fir. 12. TELEPHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack. 13. SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for removing dog feces from your boots. 14. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit. 15. TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of bolts and fuel lines you forgot to disconnect. 16. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle. 17. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. 18. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home builder's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin", which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. 19. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and squirt oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off the interiors of Phillips screw heads. 20. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 70 years ago by someone at Ford, and rounds them off. 21. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. 22. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short. 23. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer now-a-days is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. 24. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing upholstered items, chrome-plated metal, plastic parts, as well as bodily appendages. Found this on another Jeep board from some one who found it somewhere else, so on and so on. Thought you guys would enjoy it.

I think the long hood is just the camera position. I took it strait from the original Comanche Crew photo. Didn't lengthen it. But you're right, it does look kinda long. Maybe you could put a Hemi or something in there. Of course, it is a JEEP, so if it came from the factory, rest assured they went to great lenghts to find the weakest possible engine they could. Hell, with Jeep's track record lately, you'd be lucky if the Jeep even came with 4WD.

I know the Crew-Cab thread is kinda old, but I'm kinda new here and thought i'd give it a shot. Hope you like it. [/url] You can also visit my MJ-L Showroom (Photobucket gallery), where you can pick your color (5 so far, maybe more later), Cab size, Box size, and Trim package. (X, Limited, Rubicon) Enjoy! plus my other gallery so far

he he he.... you saw "TODAY ONKLY" too? I live here in Phoenix and have been looking for an MJ for a while. Saw that and laughed so hard. I think it's so funny, as well as a sad, that people can't spell Comanche, when it's right on the side of the freak'n truck they're tyring to sell. Just go outside and look at your truck!! Its not that hard!!