kaidenlem Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Hello all...I've had this idea for a couple years now, and could never get the 4.0 to run correctly no matter what I did. Also the BA/10 met its match when the rear spline came apart and destroyed the case...Anyways, I got a 350 SBC engine free from a buddy out of his running and driving 72 C20, as he was going to LS swap it and use the frame for another project. Here is my thought process-this truck will not be driven every day. Just simply trying to make a halfway decent looking running and driving truck to take to car shows, maybe even some light race tracks within 20 miles or so of my house. You can buy the Novak mounts for a decent price if you get them on sale-however-making them may be your best bet to fit in your own truck how you'd like. My truck being a 2wd (stock height at time of writing this mind you), leaves me with quite a bit of room up front and has little interference with the front axle. However, headers I have found ended up being the biggest issue. I have tried the same style as Novak headers, the factory SBC manifolds and long tubes-all to no avail. My next step is to try and level the truck and see if the long tube small headers will fit...this would be the easiest as I plan to go with some form of header collector mufflers, plus the long tubes were free.99. Also, the entire wiring harness through the truck was trashed. It had gotten wet over the years, melted, clutch fluid dumped on the connector, you name it, it happened. My plan since this will be a weekend truck is to make my own wiring using the rear half along with a few of the connectors in the front and for lights and the basics. The entire truck will be ran with a standalone touch switch panel, since the buttons can be momentary for anything you like, got mine on sale for $40 bucks so.... I'll be making my own gauge panel using sheet metal also for standard analog gauges. We are talking BASIC for drivability. As of making this post, Jan. 12 2026, the engine and transmission are bolted in the truck. For now it'll be a TH350 out of some unknown vehicle, but I eventually would like to run a saginaw or muncie transmission. You MAY have to dent the firewall or slide the engine on the mounts forwards or backwards to accommodate bell housing because it is CLOSE. For radiator, I will be keeping it Comanche style for the full width and cooling performance. Going to try the stock radiator with 2 electric fans (knowing full well I'll be buying the aluminum Comanche radiator off eBay with 3 cooling fans for a couple hundred bucks in the near future). This can be utilized with a SBC swivel top radiator hose connector as well as an electric water pump that will allow you to interchange the inlet side to the drivers side for the Comanche radiator. I'll be using a basic electric fuel pump, you can run mechanical, I'm just going this route since I already have an electric pump that isn't trash and it'll be a lot easier to change if it ever fails. Block off plate to close the hole. AND if you use the Novak engine mounts, the short SBC intake and Quadrajet with a slim air cleaner will clear the hood without modifications. I will however be using washers and longer bolts under the hood hinges for air flow out the back. The factory fuel sender I have removed the pump so now it is merely a pickup tube. So anyways, all that is needed to be done is have the wiring connected all together and the front end put back on the truck. My garage isn't heated, dirt floor, and it is winter here in Illinois so more updates will be coming in the near future. I will keep everyone posted, thanks! Hope this helps some of those who are looking for inspiration. It doesn't have to be difficult! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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