Stainless Steel AN3 Clutch Line Upgrade

[barimpact]

Hey everyone, I have finished upgrading my plastic hydraulic clutch line to a stainless steel AN3 line. This is good for better clutch response, or more importantly, for those of you that break your plastic one (the same way I did ). I have a YouTube video of the procedure, linked at the end. I did this referencing terrawombat's write up, which was very helpful:

 

Things you need:

- 3AN (or -3AN depending on the site) braided stainless steel hose/line, minimum 50 inch length

 

This should be straight at the bottom where it connects to the slave cylinder, and have a 90 degree bend at the top so that when it comes from the master cylinder, it clears the firewall correctly. If you get one less than 50 inches long, it can fit, but will be a tight fit, and you might as well do it right the first time! Here is the one that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZQRB6R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

- Master cylinder to 3AN adapter

 

This piece is pretty simple and is exactly what it says it is. The one I purchased required drilling into the master cylinder, so purchase this one at your own risk! terrawombat found one that fit better. Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q37CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

- 7/16-24 Inverted flare to 3AN adapter

 

This is so you can attach the new 3AN braided line to the slave cylinder. This will thread right on. Link to the one I got: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=24921

 

- Petroleum teflon tape

 

Probably don't need this (like you don't need it in brake line fittings), but it gave me the extra confidence to not have any leaks in the system since this is aftermarket.

 

Procedure

 

1) Drain the fluid

First thing's first, make sure you are where you can drain the brake fluid from the clutch line. I personally just cut mine apart since it was already broken, and my "quick connect" piece was never going to come apart. However, you can simply open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder and remove the cap from the master cylinder. While it's all open, pump the clutch pedal a couple times SLOWLY to make sure all the fluid is out (if you do it quickly the fluid will come out at a very high rate of speed and likely spill way beyond your catch can). When finished, snug up the bleeder valve and replace the cap on the master cylinder.

 

2) Remove the clutch line

Like I mentioned above, I cut my clutch line at the bend right before the slave cylinder. You could also work apart the quick disconnect thing if you dare mess with that. But, since you're upgrading, my opinion is to cut it. It makes things a whole lot quicker. For now, leave the line attached to the master cylinder.

 

3) Remove the master cylinder

For this, there are 2 nuts and a pin clip. One nut is on the firewall on the engine side, the other is on the firewall on the pedal side. The pin clip attaches the pedal itself to the rod on the master cylinder. To remove it, just pull the pin out of the pedal and push the rod off the pedal. These are all pretty easy to remove. Next, pull the master cylinder on the engine side towards the engine. It will be pressure fitted and will pop when it releases the clip from the firewall. Once this is out, remove this and the attached clutch line from the truck.

 

4) Disconnect the clutch line from the master cylinder

To do this, grab a punch of some kind. There is a small pin in the master cylinder near where the clutch line attaches to the master cylinder. Use the punch and a hammer to remove this pin. You will have to hit pretty hard if you live in a rusty state as this pin will rust a little and expand. Be careful to have the master cylinder somewhere it is less likely to break; aka, don't just put it on the pavement and smack it with a hammer since it is plastic, too. When this is removed, the clutch line will just pull out of the master cylinder.

 

5) Attach the master cylinder to 3AN fitting

Compare your 3AN fitting to the pressure fitting removed from the master cylinder. If you buy the one I linked above, you will have to drill out the master cylinder. If you go this route, TAKE IT SLOW AND DON'T RUIN THE MASTER CYLINDER. You just need to get the fitting in far enough to put the pin back into the master cylinder, and make sure the rubber o ring fits snug against the walls of the hole you drilled. Once the 3AN fitting is attached, put a very small amount of fluid in the master cylinder. Cover the hole in the fitting with your thumb and try to pump the master cylinder. If it is tough or hard to push, but easy when your finger is not over the hole, you have likely installed it correctly.

 

6) Attach the braided line to the 3AN fitting

Wrap the master cylinder to 3AN fitting with a small amount of petroleum teflon tape. Next, tighten the 90 degree end of the braided line to the master cylinder fitting. Like brake lines, no need to death tighten this, just snug it up properly.

 

7) Reattach the master cylinder to the truck

Press the master cylinder back into its hole in the firewall and tighten the nuts. Reattach the rod to the clutch pedal and install the pin. When attached, the master cylinder should be flush with the firewall, make sure it is not at a strange angle. 

 

8) Route the braided line down to the slave cylinder

As easy as it sounds, route the braided line behind the brake booster, down the doghouse, and to the slave cylinder.

 

The next few steps are all to be performed from under the truck.

 

9) Remove the quick connect fitting 

Follow the plastic clutch line from the quick connect fitting towards the bell housing and you will find a threaded fitting similar to a brake line. Use wrenches to remove the quick connect. Be wary that brake fluid may still be in the system and can leak out at this point.

 

10) Attach the inverted flare 3AN fitting

Using a small amount of petroleum teflon tape, attach the inverted flare fitting to the slave cylinder. Snug it down properly.

 

11) Attach the braided line to the inverted flare fitting

Using a small amount of petroleum teflon tape, attach the new braided clutch line to the inverted flare fitting with a small amount of petroleum teflon tape. Snug it down properly.

 

12) Inspect the new system

Before filling with fluid and bleeding the clutch, do a quick but thorough inspection of the new line to make sure it is fully attached and does not hit anything. If the line is too long, it could come dangerously close to the front driveshaft on 4x4 models or too close to the header/down pipe of the exhaust. Just make sure it won't be running into anything or hanging too low.

 

13) Bleed the clutch

Grab a friend to bleed the clutch and make sure there are absolutely no leaks in the system. Check the master cylinder often as fluid will deplete from the small reservoir very quickly when filling the new empty line, and you don't want to have to start over many times. 

 

14) Admire your work

Take a drive and feel that the clutch is in great working order, and feel the difference in the response of the clutch and gear changes. Many say doing this upgrade makes for smoother shifts, but since I had a broken line and bought the truck as a non-driving project, I cannot say myself.

 

YouTube Video

I have made a video with a visual instructional on how I did my clutch line, seen here: 

 

 

I hope this is helpful! Let me know if you have questions.