wyk Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 My choke takes forever to come off. And sometimes it seems it just doesn't want to turn off. If I remove the cable to the carb will it also hurt it's metering performance greatly? WIll the choke stay on forever? How does it know?! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 What engine is this for, a 2.5L or 2.8L? And what cable are you talking about removing? I thought those carbs had electric chokes. If so, they use a small resistance unit to generate heat to gradually disengage the choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 What engine is this for, a 2.5L or 2.8L? And what cable are you talking about removing? I thought those carbs had electric chokes. If so, they use a small resistance unit to generate heat to gradually disengage the choke. I'm talking about the little computer 'cable'/wire that goes to the carb. It's a 2.8 V6. I am looking at getting a rebuild. IS there a particular carb (Year/serial# or vehicle type)I need to look out for? WYK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Several years back, I had one of those carbs rebuilt by "Mr. Carburetor," a local shop that specialized in tuning carburetors back in the heyday of the muscle cars, and stayed in business servicing the street rod crowd. He got mine running, but he strongly advised scrapping it and going to a conventional, non-computer carburetor from someplace like Summit Racing. Something in the 350 to 400 CFM range would probably be about right. Mr. Carburetor said the OEM carb on the 2.8Ls was junk. I have no reason to doubt him -- haven't yet heard of one that runs/ran well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyk Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 I have absolutely no reason to doubt you. But herein lies the problem; Chevy, in all their wisdom, made a 2bbl carb/intake combo that is longitudinally staggered. WTH? So this guarantees I can not find another 2BBL carb to replace this one without getting a new manifold or getting very creative with the mounting and linkage. I have heard some folks drilling the manifold so both sides can get the intake from a single carb - and apparently an MV1 bolts up. But since I can't do this myself, I would need a machine shop. So that's $150+ or so for a rebuilt MV1 and mebbe $100+ for the machine shop? Doesn't an MV1 only have one vacuum line for the advance? Will my heater work without vacuum lines on an 86 jeep? I have no AC. I did replace the e2se on my Blazer a couple years ago with a rebuilt carb from an 86 buick. It worked great, actually. But I dunno how long it will last. I sold it last year. I was actually eying this thing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rocheste ... ccessories WYK Several years back, I had one of those carbs rebuilt by "Mr. Carburetor," a local shop that specialized in tuning carburetors back in the heyday of the muscle cars, and stayed in business servicing the street rod crowd. He got mine running, but he strongly advised scrapping it and going to a conventional, non-computer carburetor from someplace like Summit Racing. Something in the 350 to 400 CFM range would probably be about right. Mr. Carburetor said the OEM carb on the 2.8Ls was junk. I have no reason to doubt him -- haven't yet heard of one that runs/ran well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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