How much POR-15 needed to do the inner floor? Discount?

[phenryiv1]

I am looking at the "sample" kit for $20, then supplementing it with more of the actual product (no more cleaner or prep stuff).

 

The marine clean that is included with the kit can be cut to be enough to clean the whole floor (per the POR-15 website), but there is no info about the metal prep.

 

So can I go with the starter kit and add another pint (or even quart) of the actual POR-15 paint? I need to do the regular areas- front floorpan areas.

 

Also, I see that some coupon codes exist online, btu all of them come up invalid. Does anyone have a valid code for the 10% off?

[Randy in Maine]

Won't happen for $20....

 

I would suggest buying a gallon of both Marine Clean (best degreaser I have ever found) and the Metal Ready (a phosphoric acid metal etching compound) and a quart of the actual POR-15.

 

It should take about a quart to do the floorpan. If you want it to stay black, put a topcoat of "chassis black" on it. Difficult to get normal paint to stick to it.

 

Suggestion: Put some "saran wrap" under the lid of the paint can or you will never get it open a second time. Others have used 2 screws with rubber washers behind them to pour some out and then reseal it back up (one of them is a vent).

[wolfpackjeeper]

I had been wondering this as well. I think I am going to tear my vynal out between API and Primary when I have a break in training. I do want to put carpet back in though.

[1974CJ5]

I would recommend rust bullet (summit racing has pretty good pricing). POR15 is a great product, and I don't blame you if you use it but:

 

Rust bullet requires alot less prep and is tough as nails and no need for topcoats as it is uv resistant (available in grey and black i believe ((I used the black))). I did the entire frame of a CJ5 after I sandblasted it (not required) with 2/3rds of a quart of rust bullet, and I think it was 30 bucks or so (don't quote me on that).

 

If you let it run and it dries you will be at with a hammer and screwdriver to ever get it let go, and then it comes off only because you removed a thin layer of the metal is it attached to. It bonds to skin just as well, so if it dries on you NOTHING will get it off. The best solution to get it off your hands is to put on rubber gloves and get your hand really hot so you will sweat under it.

 

Also make sure you don't shake the can, only stir or you will battling air bubbles!

 

http://www.rustbullet.com

Check it out, I am a fan!

Read the FAQ on the website, but it will work if you just sand it real good and brush it on. Pretty hardcore shiznit!

[flint54]

Regarding the POR-15, it's relatively thin and spreads easily. I think a pint would do the floor pans, but, you will probably want to do more places eventually. I would spring for a quart. Also, I've been keeping it in the fridge in between uses and then warming it in the oven when I want to use some. As noted, the can groove where the lid fits must be kept wiped clean or the lid will bond closed and never be removed again. I agree on the marine cleaner being an awesome degreaser! I used a misting squirter on the garage floor and then mopped to remove 20 years of crap with amazing ease.

[phenryiv1]

I just ordered (2) pint cans in grey ($40) and an 8 oz bottle each of marine clean and metal ready. Total shipped was $58.50.

 

I might call back first thing in the morning and double the marine clean order, just to be safe.