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Hey everyone. I need help with my Jeep from the gurus here. Its a 1991 2.5L 4 cyl engine with the fuel injection system. It has the injector per cylinder setup on this. I have pretty much replaced all of the sensors on the engine, cleaned it all up inside and even added new main bearings and connecting rod bearings as they where shot when I bought the car. Since doing all the work, the engine has been running smooth and the truck runs alright. But I do notice a lack of power; I know its the 4 cylinder, but I always have to give it good amount of gas to get it going. My biggest headache is that I am getting about 12 to 13 MPG, which I think its insane! I have no leaks on the intake, fuel pump, filter and all those maintenance items are new as well. The only thing that I recall not checking before was the position of the rotor in the distributor when installing a new distributor I got. I used the haynes manual and it stated that when installed, the rotor should be at the six o clock position when you are standing on the side of the engine. The front of the engine is to your right shoulder and the back to your left and you are staring right at the distributor in front of you. In this six oclock installation, I couldnt even get the engine to start. I could feel that the engine would try to start and it would stop the started right away. In a way I feel that it was too advanced. I then began to look around and some other sites are listing that the rotor should be installed at the 3 o clock position, essentially poiting forwards. My question here is. What is the correct rotor position for a 2.5L 1991 Engine with the port fuel injection electronic setup? Any tips here? What other areas could be causing my poor fuel economy? Crank sensor at the rear of the engine? That is pretty much the last sensor I havent touched... Any ideas will be very welcome. At this point i want to drive this daily but with a 12 MPG thats a little absurd...

So for a few weeks my MJ has been randomly stalling. Be driving, and engine will die. Sometimes it'll restart, but usually I have to let it set. MJ would drive awesome, except when it would stall. I thought it was fuel delivery. Cause, after the engine would stop, if I put gas down the TB, it would start. Well, finally it stopped and would not start. After checking the usual, I was kinda stuck. I decided to take a look at the Distributor. I had installed it a few months back, new from AutoZone. As looking inside, I found my problem. The "pulse ring" is pressed on to the shaft. It is NOT supposed to rotate independently of the shaft. On my New Autozone Distributor, that pulse ring is loose. It rotates a few degrees on the shaft, just enough to mess up the timing. I was able to force it on the the shaft to lock it. It's advanced the timing now, I think. I need to put a timing light and see. It will come loose again, I need to find a way to actually lock it. like a tac weld. If it advances the timing, like the CPS mod, I may keep it. Anyone else see this issue before?

Hi everyone, First off, thanks everyone for the pointers on my previous post regarding the cluster swap. Got pretty much everything ready to go on that one. Today I was working on putting the engine back together and i was working on the timing cover and timing components. As I was putting things together I noticed two main issues. First: The camshaft bolt does not employ the trust pin used on the 6 cylinder engines. The Haynes Manual doesnt mention anything like this for the 4 cylinder. Is this correct? 4 Cyl did not get the hollow bolt with the trust pin on them? I ask, because as you can see on my pictures, if I pull on the camshaft outwards, it can slide out about 0.300" away from the block. I am wondering if this would then hit the timing cover and cause problems? Second: When I took the engine apart, I noticed how the previous owner had added a random small pulley as a bolt spacer to hold the crank damper in place. I decided to do a quick dry run and I pressed the crank damper in place using the proper install tools. I then noticed how when the nose of the crankshaft sits flush with the crankshaft damper at the front, there is a 0.303" gap at the back; in between the back of the vibration damper and the timing chain sprocket. I have access to a lathe and I can make a spacer. But I want to know is this spacer should be made to take up the space between the back of the vibration damper and the timing sprocket, or should I push the vibration damper all the way in to touch the timing chain sprocket and just add the spacer up front behind the vibration damper crank bolt? Any inputs on this will help me to know what to do next. Thanks anyone. regards VH pics: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qz9xw9du08v4i14/jeep3.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyehq4ru3b17fb6/jeep2.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qb5hiacan1p3l8/jeep1.jpg?dl=0