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Just did a gauge cluster swap on my '86 Comanche to an '87 - '89 Cherokee gauge cluster (long story) and I've been having a little bit of speedometer trouble. Got a new cable (ATP Y914) and a new drive gear (37 tooth for 4.10 and 29" tires according to the Novak Chart), but the speedometer isn't accurate at highway speeds. At speeds below it's dead accurate...or at least withing 1 -2 miles of GPS indicated depending on how fast the GPS refreshes, but after about 45, it reads 5mph slow. Weird part is that the trip meter is accurate within 0.5 miles and odometer is spot on. There is a little bit of needle bounce at lower speeds which I'd expect at an old cable driven system and it's really smooth at about 60mph indicated (65mph GPS). Cable is fully seated onto the cluster (snapped on and can't be pulled off without moving the locking collar), speedometer drive housing is clocked properly, cable is fully screwed into the drive housing, and the cable is secured well to the chassis and doesn't have any sharp bends or kinks. Is the speedo something I'm just gonna have to live with or is my cheap cable what's causing it to read slow? I've heard of people slowly grinding down the speedo cable at the drive gear end to help reduce the needle wiggle, but I dunno if that would help with the mystery 5mph drift at highway speeds. I do know, or at least kind of remember, that the speedo cable at the drive gear housing doesn't actually have the plastic sheathing touching the actual housing when I push the cable all the way in...maybe this could be a bind? I've also heard of people pulling the speedometer cable about a 1/2" out of the sleeve at the gauge side for more engagement, but I'm hesitant to do that because the engagement felt good and the odometer is pretty damn accurate. Starting to think that this might just be a curse of Wheezey because the old gauge cluster did a similar thing but I know that the cable and drive gear on that old setup was hashed...but this stuff is all new.

I ordered a replacement EGR valve from Rockauto, but it is significantly different from the factory one (much larger diaphram). It came without the vacuum transducer and does not have a port to connect the original vacuum transducer. From the limited information I can find, it looks like the transducer interlocks the EGR operation to only open when there is exhaust pressure. Has anyone ran this setup or similar EGR without the vacuum transducer?