broythomas

O.K. this can't be right. I've run 16 ozs of fluid through it. Still only get a little pressure no matter how much I pump the pedal. Only feel pressure at the last 1 or 2 of travel. I've put several hours in now. When I build up the pressure, only a little fluid comes out when I release the bleed screw. No air. Fluid is clean and new when it comes out.

the whole clutch and concentric ring are brand new so no wear. Wasn't going to pull the tranny and not replace it. The tranny is a 1994 ax-15 that had to have the front plate swapped to match my 1992. I've never used it and bought it used so it could be bad, but I took the case off and gave it a visual inspection and everything looked good (Tore one down previously that had bad syncros) and shifted well before I put it in. My pedal was loose when I got it. It flopped around (Not side to side just up and down). It doesn't have the safety switch that prevents you from starting it with the clutch engaged, figured this caused the slop.

I am I have a magic 2x4 that is the perfect length for this and almost any job you'd need a 2x4 for. Mine will probably take longer (already has) since I screwed up and removed every ounce of fluid. Get to start again in the morning.

So I think I now qualify at least for idiot of the month if not year. You know the rubber thing in the master cylinder? It helps to remove this before topping off the fluid. It tends to interfere with the flow so there was no fluid actually in the system. Now the fluid is flowing, but I either still have air in the system or I've done something else stupid. I have pressure at the pedal, but it doesn't have full travel and won't let it shift gears with the engine on. Do I Just keep bleeding it?

The pedal goes almost to the floor before I feel anything. I'll go back down and work at it for as long as I can using brents method.

I tried bleeding his way and nothing. So I got out a hand vacuum pump and hooked it up. Still nothing. If the straps didn't break, would that keep it from pumping through. Like I said I got fluid early, but the master cylinder never went down.

Also, I think I felt the pop, but it was real faint. I'm assuming it would be faint since its thin plastic buried under metal.

It is the internal. I didn't undo the straps because it said they would break in both my manual and in the clutch instructions. I'll run out and do what bret said a bunch of times. Really don't want to take the tranny back out. Gotta do it by myself though. I work different hours than almost everyone I know.

Sorry should have been clearer about what I did. I simply opened the bleeder nut and began pumping the clutch. There seemed to be little pressure in the system. The peddle went almost to the floor before I felt anything. Of course there is lots of air from disconnecting the hoses and putting in the new parts. I also started the engine hoping to build some pressure, but no changes. Nothing comes out now.

I just put a new clutch in during my 4x4 conversion. It's a 1992 4.0. manual. Finally got everything in and went to bleed the clutch. Only a little fluid came out and the master cylinder didn't drain. I disconnected the hose right before it went into the bell housing. Pumped the clutch and fluid came out the hose. Everything worked before the change. This is obviously a long shot but is there any chance I can fix this without yanking everything back out again?

I don't have a 231 to measure (began with a 2wd) but it must be. Here's my drivetrain with years. 1992 2wd truck. 1992 4.0, 1994 ax-15, 1989 nv242, and 1992 dana 44 rear end. Maybe the d44 is a little longer than the usual d35. Also don't have one of these to measure. I do have a 3 inch lift (mines 4 inch since it began as a 2wd). I'll measure my 242 and dana 44 tonight and post the measurements and maybe someone else can measure a 231 and a d35. I've read in various places that the 242 is the same length and that it is one inch longer. Might as well get to the bottom of it.

I tried pete M's trick and got a driveshaft from a 1991 4.0 auto 4x4 and now have a 1.5 inch gap for the shaft to slide into the transfer case. That's enough isn't it?

o.k. finally got under the truck with the sand bags out. Still have the canopy on it, but it can't weigh more than 60 lbs. I think I might have 1 ton springs (Junk yard find) since they have one more leaf than I originally had. I don't think I own enough stuff to put enough weight in the ben to bottom it out. I bounce on the rear bumper and it barely moves (I weigh 180). Anyway right now I have less than half an inch so I'm guessing that's not enough. Took a pic but not smart enough to put it in here.[/img]

I believe the donor was a 4.0 but can't remember if it was an auto or manual. Probably a manual since I got the front axle for free and it has 3.07 gears. I know these suck but it matches the rear and I have a 3.73 for the later gear change and free is free.

Thanks for the link.

I'm using a stock shaft from a 1991 4x4. Don't know what axle was in the donor truck. I haven't measured the gap but I will tonight. I'll take out the sand bags when I do it. What's your guess on the minimum needed?

the gap is smaller than your first pic definitely not like the last one so I should be good. Thanks

mines about two thirds of that. Am I still okay? I do have 120 lbs of sandbagas at the tailgate.

I'm still doing my 4x4 conversion and just put in my transmission and transfer case and rear driveshaft. My combo is 4.0, AX-15, NV242, Dana 44, 3 inch lift. My question is how much play should be at the slip joint at the back of the transfer case. I didn't pay much attention when I took out the 2wd. I'm pretty sure I'm fine but thought I'd double check. Thanks.

I know this isn't the right site for j10s but I figure you've been so helpful with my 4x4 conversion maybe you can help with this. My cousin has found a 1979 j10 he wants to buy and wants me to look at it with him. My uncle and grandfather have owned 4 so I'm somewhat familiar. It's a 360 TH400 with quadratrac and spring over. What do I need to check on the springover to make sure it was done right and will be safe? Any other problems to watch for on j10s? Also I've heard the quadratracs aren't as reliable, but we can salvage a good d20 from my uncles rusted out hulk. It's a 1980 will it bolt right in? Thanks for any help you can give. Brian

i know i don't need wiring to make the system work. The wiring I'm talking about is the wiring that goes to the switch on the back of the transfer case that lights up the part time and full time lights on the dashboard. I think it's the same place where the vaccuum lines on a 231 connect.

I'm turning my 1992 comanche eliminator with a 4.0 and ax-15 from a 2wd to a 4wd with a 242 transfer case. I was wondering if the wiring in the 2wd has the wires to light up the 4wd lights on the dashboard and just aren't being used. Bulbs are in place. I obviously don't need these lights since I can look down at the shifter if I want to know what position the transfer case is in, but I figured if the wiring is there I might as well use it. What colors and where would I look for them. Thanks

I agree that would be better, but I'm a little low on cash and this is my daily driver. (Luckily I live about a 2 minute walk from work) and my new clutch kit came with a new one for the 1992 so if changing the plate will work I'll have to do that since the nearest junk yard is along ways away.

I have a 1992 jeep comanche 2wd with the 4.0 and an ax-15. I'm turning it into a 4wd and rounded up everything and all of it seems to fit except for one thing. My new ax-15 4wd transmission is a 1994 and apparently they switched the clutch system. I don't have the bell housing for the 1994 only the one for the 1992. The clutch control thing doesn't fit from the new clutch (For a 1992). To make this work, do I need to get a new bell housing and a whole new clutch system? Or can the front retainer plate from the 1992 transmission be put on the 1994 transmission and work? Thanks.

I found a switch at the junkyard from a wagoneer. Even has lights for 2wd and 4wd. Sure it is that beautiful peanut butter/turd brown from the 70's but that's why they invented spray paint. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to figure out where to mount it.