deeswalker

Okay, finally drove the MJ around, and it still drops out of gear, did it driving down the freeway, last night. It down shifted up shifted and then it lost forward momentum and the RPM's shot way up because my foot was still on the pedal. It will drop back into gear when I take my foot off the pedal. It drives okay, sort of, after that.

The switch was off center a bit, still being compressed by the break pedal arm, but not fully. I corrected that, but haven't tested it out yet. Very easy to inspect and adjust. We shall see what changes may come. I would suspect if your 96 XJ has an AW4 it would have something real close to the same setup or the same setup. Worth a look.

I mean it shifts all the way up into 4th normally, and drops into 3rd and back into 4th and drops into 3rd and back into 4th. I does not do this all the time, it is an intermittent problem. As far as the break pedal switch is concerned, I will look into that in the morning. Again thank you all for your suggestions.

If it changed anything, it would have been because it was out of adjustment before, and your shift points will change to what they should be as a result of the proper adjustment. You may also be noticing differences in where the torque converter locks/unlocks. Did it do anything other than change the shift points? It just seems to shift more frequently durning acceleration. What exactly is your issue, now? Does it shift normally when accelerating or decelerating? Is it downshifting normally under brisk acceleration? Does it stay in the same gear at constant speeds? Does it stay in gear at all? It is staying in gear now but it is nothing like it was prior to the dropping out of gear problem. Not the same truck. If it's just popping back and forth between gears at ~30mph in traffic, I think that's just because it's bouncing off the bottom end of what 4th gear can do. Mine does that too. A little slower and it stays in 3rd, a little faster it stays in 4th. Can the kickdown be fine tunened until the function improves?

It does this in both power and comfort modes. The light works in power mode. I will check the switch in the morning. Thank you for the suggestion.

I will take a look at that switch as soon as I can. It does it in power and comfort. And the light functions.

Kick down adjusted as per your recommendation. It did change shifting points or when it shifts, and it seems to shift sooner than it did. It now seems to shift back and fourth between gears at different speeds. It will downshift and then upshift at odd intervals.

To be honest, I completely forgot about this, thinking I will do this when I get back under the hood. This just might be the fix. Thanks Pete Will let you know what happens.

Now the transmission is shifting at the wrong time, sometimes to soon, sometimes to late, but not all the time. Sometimes it will not give me any problems at all.

No, what you read has to do with pressure flushing the transmission. The AW4 is NOT that sensitive. Check your fluid level and condition again, you might want to do a drain and fill again, especially if the fluid was brown-ish. There are ~8 qts. total in the AW4, most of which are captive in the torque converter. Drain and fill a series of 3 to get the majority of the old fluid out and new fluid in. 3.75 qts out, 3.75 qts. back in. I have started to add a little more fluid to the transmission, like a half a quart so far. I will monitor the level to see what happens. What I am hoping to see is the fluid level drop after the system burps a little air out. So far after driving it on short runs the problem hasn't returned.

Thank you all that are trying to help me with this, you have been a tremendous help.

I am using Dextron lll mercon ATF and i filled it using the dip stick. To me the fluid level seems fine. I will try draining 3 and adding three to see if it changes anything. I just purchased a new TPS and set it up with my reference voltage of 4.72 and using the formula 4.72 X 83% or 0.83 set the output voltage to 3.91 volts took it for a drive and it did it a little at first and that was it. I took it out and opened it up and the drove slowly back into the neighborhood didn't seem to act up. Will let you all know if it does when i take it out on the freeway.

Bump I really need help.

Okay, I checked the voltages on the TPS and between "A" and "D" I got 4.71 volts (Reference Voltage) and between "B" and "D" I got 4.04 volts (Output Voltage). Using the formula 4.71 volts X 83% or .83 = 3.9093 volts a difference of 0.1307 volts. That would be 4.04 volts minus 3.9093 volts = 0.1307 volts. Should the output voltage be closer to the calculated voltage of 3.9093? Is this enough of a difference to cause the transmission to act up like it is? And should I replace the TPS? The problem seems to be getting worse lost D and 3 limped home half a block, good thing i was close.

I havent checked the tps, should i check it for adjustment and remove it and clean it? I do not know when the fluid was changed prior to me changing it. Okay found the information on how to adjust it from here http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ or search for Cruisers renix tips. Got to go and check this out soon. And, Thank you both, will post my results later.

This is happening on my 1990 Comanche. I recently changed the fluid and filter about a month or so ago. I checked the two connectors by the Trans dip stick and the connectors on the TCU and fuse all looked good. This started happening at highway speeds of 65-75 MPH and then started happening at lower speeds of 25-30 MPH. I can shift out of D into 3 and back and everything seems fine. Has anybody ever had this problem? HELP!

What will work, bolt on, with minimal modifications if needed.

Thanks Pete. I had to wait on the installation, welder went on vacation. time to collect a few more things for the install. deeswalker

Yes 87 does give good advice. I have been lurking for the past 4-5 years and have been gleaning knowledge. I love what Pete has been doing with the forums and his projects and all the good advice he put out there. Pong is also a good source of knowledge as well as a lot of folks in this forum. I am thankful we have a place to go to find information as well as share information on our MJ's. deeswalker

Thank you both for your replies. The thing is I am short on cash right now and just want to get the truck up there and start saving for the axles and transfer case. I have the time and want to start work on it. Thank you Pete for the suggestion on the u-joints, will run out and buy one. Any suggestions on the shocks length I should use, would 27' extended x 17' collapsed work for the front? What about the rear? Think I should take measurements first? deeswalker

I have a 1990 MJ Pioneer 4.0 AW4 2WD with a dana 35 in back, bone stock right now, and I want to put the lift and tires I have on it soon, like this weekend, RE 5.5 lift kit. I will be putting BF Goodrich 32/11.5-15's on it. They say set the pinion angle to 2 degrees. I am not putting in a transfer case or doing the 4x4 conversion at this time. Can I still do this lift and do the conversion at later time? Can I set it at 2 degrees and expect everything to be fine or will I run into problems? I am hoping someone out there has done this or knows someone that has. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you all, one great club!!! deeswalker