RyanL

Update time! While I was at my summer class today my father got the overhead console working! The console and associated wiring are from a 98 ZJ. The body module is also needed from a 96-98 ZJ to operate the diagnostics (fuel mpg, compass, etc.) with wires spliced into the CCD then the fuse box on the XJ to interpret the data. Picture time: (The temperature is not displayed because the ambient temperature sensor was not connected). The console, now that it is working, will soon be shortened and recovered to match the grey headliner. More to come tomorrow! Stay tuned!

Update time! Its been awhile since I've updated and a lot has got done! First I got the headliner recovered Before I trimmed it down to fit All glued up! Did the back drums Emergency brake cable routed And the trim pieces are painted! All that is left to paint is the bed and the tailgate, which are not really a priority at the moment. The real wrench in the plans (wrench, haha get it?) is the engine. I am driving it back and forth to college and need to have the 500 mile break in done before mid-august. That being said, the engine will most likely go in this next week give or take a few days for 4th of July weekend. Can't wait! More to come! Stay tuned!

Thank you for the compliments! I have read through your build and I have to say I really like that yellow! It is definitely going to turn heads! As for the sender, keep in mind that the gauge will not read correctly on some of the senders so be careful when mixing and matching parts. The tank will still fit without modification on our trucks, but it comes within a inch or so from the driveshaft from what I've seen on other builds. The whole reason for heating the tank was to give the driveshaft a little more wiggle room. The tank itself sits against the top pinch weld on the drivers side frame rail and the bracket on the bottom of the cab on the drivers side seen here: right where the frame rail meets the cab. This bracket was where it kicked the tank out close to the driveshaft. I honestly don't know why the engineers included the bracket or what their reasoning was when they designed the truck, and truthfully it may work fine if you alter the bracket, I figured sinking the tank corner would be easier than frame work. And I always cringe when I see cars with that much damage! I only had to source a passenger door, not a whole front cap! But we are both in this undertaking together and if you need any help on a particular problem we may have solved already, or maybe just a sounding board for ideas don't hesitate to ask! Best of luck to a swift and solid build! Ryan

Got the back diff filled today. Also cracked open the front for the first time ever in its life I believe. Anyways less talk more pictures. Ready to be wire brushed All buttoned up and ready to go! Maybe a coat of paint first... I also got the door panels installed today More to come! Stay tuned!

Update time! We are four for four of the major problems of the 97+ swap! The wiring for the back of the truck is done! The taillight wiring needed to be extended, and the excess wiring eliminated. I chose to keep the XJ style taillights (one light is brakes, one blinker, and one reverse). On the Drivers side of the harness, the plugs for the back gate had to be eliminated. The rest was just running the wires to the back. Picture time, The wires from the cab (the plug must be taken off of the MJ harness, which destroys it, and the center hole elongated by drill bit. We used a lot of sealer to prevent leaks. Plug out of the cab. There are 3 different looms, one for each tail light, and one for the fuel sender. Ran the wires next to the hard lines, behind the tank down to the drivers side where the passenger side branches off to its side with a 90 degree turn like so. (The slack you see was taken out when we fastened it to the frame). Also, the steering column and headlight switch are in Note to self: if you are ever having problem with seating the column on all four bolts, remember that it is in fact a TILT column, and may need to be tilted to seat :doh: . Struggled with it for a long time before my stupid self realized that... The end is almost in sight! :yes: Stay tuned!

Off to the fitting of the tank. Most everyone that has converted to the 22 gallon Dakota tank has said that it comes frighteningly close to the driveshaft. To rectify this we "sunk" the corner that hits the standoff of the frame under the back of the drivers side of the cab seen here: This is after we pushed it in. To actually push the corner in, you need two people. You will need a heat gun, a largish size fan, oven mitts, a small piece of flat steel and a wooden handled hammer. We used this to heat it: To actually do this first take the sender out of the tank. Power up the heat gun and SLOWLY heat the corner of the tank. The tank is thick, so it will take a while. After it is heated, get the second person with the oven mitts on to use the hammer handle to push the corner in. DO NOT push very hard or you will punch through the tank. You must hold the handle there until the plastic cools or it will pop back out again. That's what the fan is for. Turn it on and it cools the plastic faster. I advise against using something like water to flash cool the plastic or you run the risk of it cracking. Repeat this process along the length of the corner alternating between the hammer handle to achieve depth and the flat steel to get the angle right until it seats flush against the standoff on the frame like in the first photo. Doing this netted us about 3-4 1/2 more inches to spare between the tank and the driveshaft with the Dakota heat shield on the tank as added protection. Picture time. (We bent the fuel line to its needed position after setting the tank). Some may be hesitant to try this for fear of damaging the tank but if you are careful and take your time, it will come out fine. Or just put the XJ tank where the spare tire goes. Restoration is all about what works for you while keeping the integrity of the truck sound. If this isn't the direction you want to go in, that's okay! Speaking of sound integrity, after checking the fit, we sealed the spot with sealer first to insure there were no pinholes, then a piece of flat steel bent to match the angle sandwiched by two pieces of thick foam to prevent buckling and rubbing on the frame. Stay tuned!

Got the third of the four major problems of the 97+ swap rectified yesterday: The gas tank, The tank was from a 1992 Dodge Dakota. The senders were from a 1998 and 1992. To complete the fabrication, the 92 sender is needed for the 90 degree fitting for the vent line if installation of the roll over valve is the direction you wish to go. The body of the 98 is so the gas gauge will read correctly. To install the 22 gallon tank with the correct vacuum fittings and the roll over valve, you first cut the plastic valve out of the XJ tank. This will connect to the line from the vacuum canister required with the 97+ swap. It is very thick plastic and a dremel will not cut all the way though. We found that using a drill bit to get a hole in the tank and then sticking a hack saw blade and cutting by hand went the quickest. After cutting the valve out of the XJ tank and cleaning the edges up, cut a hole in the top of the Dakota tank using a forester bit (or a hole saw). Place the valve in the hole and seal it using a gas resistant sealer. This stuff says it works but only a real world test will tell. To install the roll over valve, a vent line is required on the top of the 98 sender. Disassemble the 92 sender (3 screws and the top pulls off). Coat the bottom of the valve with a lubricant (PB blaster worked for us) and push the seal out with a small screw driver. When a side pops out, push on the bottom of the valve with your palm and the whole thing just pops out like so: Drill a hole on the 98 sender with a hole saw right over the raised circle on the top. There are only two open sections on the top of the 98 sender, but the circle is easiest to visualize. File the hole down and insert. (Note: I recommend putting the sender in the tank when drilling to get good leverage. With it out the sender drops along it's track and it make drilling hard.) Don't forget to clean out the plastic shavings when you are done! Swap the top of the rollover valve filler neck with an MJ specific one and you are set until it comes time to mount the tank! More to come! Stay tuned!

Its about that time again.... I know its been a little while since my last update so here goes; First off the doors Got the doors back together except for the speakers and body panels. Also I didn't put the windows in because I didn't think it made sense without any power to run them! Next up engine bay! Everything but the hard lines are in, sealed, and ready to go! All except the engine of course! Last stop interior! The HVAC box, fuse panel, and back of the dash are IN. I can't tell yall how good it feels to get this far on the build. The key turn is getting closer and closer! If all goes well (IF), the engine will go in Saturday! Stay tuned!

Thank you for the compliments! I've been itching to get this thing put back together and back on the road where it belongs! Not to long now! :yes:

Update for the day. A little color and clear :thumbsup: Man look at that shine :jump: The bed and body pieces (flares, grille, etc.) will be painted within the next two weeks but meanwhile, stuff can finally be put back in the truck! Stay tuned!

What he said^^

Thanks for the compliments! I'm in college right now, and they surprised me with it when I got back for the Christmas break. As for my skills, I owe my knowledge to my dad (Akula69) who taught me everything I know! The paint and primer we use a brand sold at Napa called Finish 1. They have multiple "grades" of the same product. For example, we are using the medium grade primer and the highest grade clear coat. The primer is a urethane primer (fills imperfections better and sands glass smooth compared to a lacquer primer). The gun is an old one, that uses a cup with a bag in it that sucks up with the air pressure, allowing you to spray any angle, even upside down, and it makes clean up a breeze! The sanding was different. The cab had been painted before from the first restoration, so just needed to be sanded with some 400 on the chips and dings, and 600 on the rest of it. Then we went back over it with a superfine 3M sanding pad and smoothed out the sand lines. Ready for paint. If it will be the truck's first paint job since it rolled off the factory line, I recommend using a DA (Dual Action Orbital Sander), and start with 120 or 180 on the roughest spots and take it down as far as you want. Personally, I try not to go below the E-Coat but if there is rust (like on the bed sourced from the PAP in my build) you need to go down to bare metal. After all the imperfections had been sanded out (low spots excluded) hit the whole bed with some 320 on the DA. The dents in my bed were pulled with a stud welder and filled with bondo. After that we hit the whole bed with 600. The spots that had rust before sanding got a coat of Rustoleom Rust Reformer. After that we blocked it with 600 again and then primed it. Sanded the primer down with 400 then 600 and followed it up with a super fine 3M pad. Feels like ice skating when you run your hand across it. The paint can directly follow the primer when it's sanded down. The floor pans can be listed for either model because the cab of the Comanche and the Cherokee, for all general purposes, are the same from the front of the B-pillars forward. It is possible to make your own from sheet metal but I didn't trust myself to do it right, and just bought some. They are thicker than the previous pans, but take a whole heck of a lot of convincing to sit right before welding in the corners. I believe they came from Rock Auto but I'm not 100% sure. Here they are laid in the truck: (We had to cut more than the pan covered, and cut another square to fit). I recommend keeping the top frame rail if it's salvageable and re-welding it back in when the new pans are in like in my build. If you get in a front end accident you risk the cab buckling towards you and making a mess of your knees and such. I hope that answered your questions! Don't hesitate to ask if you have anymore! Ryan

Update! Got the drivers side finished up today and primed! :yes: But it gets so much better! Here comes the best part..... Are you ready? You sure? PAINT! :clapping: The engine bay got first dibs! Friday the cab follows suit, and the following week the bed! Sure is shiny though! Look there's me! :waving: More to come! Stay tuned!

Thanks for the tips! I've read through your build and you have one hell of a truck! More to come tomorrow!

Update for today: Got most of the truck and associated pieces primed with the first of two or three coats of urethane primer today! The cab already has a solid coat of primer on it from the first restoration so it was mainly just the bed and bondo spots that needed it. The black that you see over the primer is a trick a talented body worker told me. You lightly mist some black spray paint (preferably a non-enamel) over everything. When you block it down, the contrast with the lighter primer makes it easier to see low spots and other imperfections. That being said, pictures! The passenger side, except for three or so spots that need some glazing putty, all done! (the drivers side needed a little more body work to be straight). Bumper, nose piece and flares: Fenders: Tomorrow should bring another coat of primer and maybe a little color and clear :yes: Stay tuned!

Body work, body work, body work, I swear it never ends. The passenger side is pretty well finished up. Got a coat of filler primer on there to see if any spots were missed. So far so good! Drivers side is almost done. If there is one thing you can never put a time limit on its body work. Lol. Hopefully the drivers side will be finished up tomorrow then nothing will stand between the 'Manche and paint! :clapping: Stay tuned!

Put the carpet in the truck to check the fit I'm no expert or anything but the back needs a little trimming I think...lol More to come! Stay tuned!

Pressure washed the carpet earlier today. I think I got all the stains except some of the more stubborn rust around the bracket openings. Back panel carpet (cut from the carpet in the back of the donor) More to come today! Stay tuned!

Today's progress was the interior panels. Broke down and bought the Mopar cans I was not pleased with the results and decided to mix the paint to match To make the MJ specific panels match the XJ dash pieces, which were the darkest version of the agate color, the panels were first given a coat of the Mopar paint. Then some Rustoleom Satin black was misted over it to make it darker. Afterwards a little clear gloss protective enamel to give it some shine. I found that the clear brought out the black in the panels so to give it a bluer sheen went and remisted some of the Mopar paint over the clear. It gave it the color I was looking for and took a little of the shine off of the panels which was good because you could almost see yourself in them! :rotf: The results were great! Before mixed paint next to an Xj dash piece After mixed paint The lighting isn't so hot in the pictures but you get the idea :thumbsup: Stay tuned!

So as I expected, it didn't go according to plan today and the engine bay was not painted. :fs1: To humid. But got a huge leap forward on the body work for the bed! This is after bondo and some primer to catch any low spots that were missed \ (Don't let the paint fool you, the bed rail is indeed straight) Just some finishing putty to go over everything and some epoxy primer and the whole truck will be ready for paint! :clapping: Stay tuned!

It's that time again... Updates! Body work has officially begun. The cab was done for the first restoration, and the new body parts were still in good condition so just a little sanding and two spots of bondo for paint and this is what you get Some of you may remember earlier in the thread that I mentioned purchasing a new truck bed. With the old one bent beyond repair from the car accident, a new one was sourced from the Pull-A-Part. Cleaned up the bottom and Undercoated it. Then set it on the frame to work on it. The PO of the truck had a cheap blue paint job put right over the old one rust and all. After figuring out there was two coats and clears of paint, I saw the extent of the damage. There was rust all over the bed under the paint. There was no choice but to sand down to the bare metal in most places to get the rust off. The truck was also apparently used as a work truck at some point in its life because there were dents EVERYWHERE. \ Broke out the stud welder and got to work! I think that was half the studs we needed for that side. And this was the good side... Anyways the dents have been pulled, all that is left for the bed is the bondo and primer! If everything goes according to plan (it almost never does :shake: ) and weather permitting the engine bay will get painted tomorrow. After that the cab, and if the bed happens to be finished that too! Stay tuned gents the reassembly is near :crossfingers:

I figured I could spray it into an old plastic container then mix in a little black and paint them by hand possibly. However, broke down and got the MOPAR cans from the dealership. Should be here within the week so more on that to come. If it doesn't match either, mixing paint will be the only option I suppose.

So do you believe mixing in a little black into the SEM paint may make it dark enough? All of the non MJ specific pieces came from the same XJ, the donor.

Gotcha. Thanks!

Okay so when I post on my thread ('89 Conversion to '99 Resto), the thread comes up as a single page. Is this just for my view as the topic creator or does it come up like that for everyone in the forum? Its slightly annoying for me because it takes forever to load the pictures, and I can't imagine the annoyance for others. Is there any way to insert page breaks? Any help would be much appreciated!