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All, I have read every post about the pros and cons of a cab over camper in the bed. Since most of the posts are old I wanted to see if anyone has any new insight or experiences. I got a deal on a Skamper 72s. Low profile but when cranked up it is 6'4" inside. Weights 1050. I was going to add bags at a minimum and maybe the heavy springs. I have the 4.0 and Dana 35, Long Bed. I don't want to give up my truck (But A/C be nice) but I like the camper also. I do not plan heavy off road with camper but rather looking to head out to fishing areas paved and gravel. The guy I got it from had it in a toyota tacoma with no issues. Any new insight is appreciated. Rick

I have an 87 with the 4.0. It came without A/C. How hard is it to grab one out of a pick and pull and put it in? I see the compressor hanger is there with a pulley so it at least must have been an option. My guess is that it will be a miserable project. So on the really bad days I will just stick to my Durango or use the 2X55 free air.... I know back in the 80's i put an after market AC into a classic truck but I bet those are outrageous too. Any insight is appreciated...Rick

I heard good things about using lye but the caustic nature is why I have not tried it. Now I have gone to a feed store and farm supply and bought farm grade vinegar. The percentage of acid is 20% or more compared to store bought that is 5% but it is getting harder to find. Just make sure you wear eye protection and gloves. Plus it is an awesome spot weed killer!

Wow...Thanks!!! I have a new project for this weekend. My goal for this truck is reliability then I can work on body and lift. My hoses are toast so that was the plan this weekend plus the valve cover gasket is shot. No I did not adjust the TPS. I just installed it because it met the advertised tolerances I seen on here. The old one was reading 2.2 open or closed. I had no power and it would not downshift when passing but after that simple fix it ran like a new truck. Should I have made adjustments? I am new to jeeps but not new to a wrench so any insight is greatly appreciated.

Wow...Cannot belive I did not add it. Its an 1987, 4X4, 4.0L, Auto

Ok I got a Comanche in trade that had a multitude of issues but one by one they are going away. So far I have replaced the TPS (Made a MAJOR difference!!!), Distributor, plugs/wires/ vacuum lines (This corrected my idle), ball joints, hub bearings, all new brakes and alternator last night. Now I have a issue of a ticky engine, same sound as fuel starving and a little gutless. Stronger when warm and under load. I think it is a timing advance issue but what sensor would that be? CPS?, Knock Sensor?. Also even if I let fuel lines pressurize it still takes 4 or 5 second crank for the engine to start. I wonder if they are linked issues?? The truck runs great except for these two issues. When I get this fixed it is new hoses all around! BTW...I am at sea level. Thanks Rick

The rebar as the sacrifical anode crudes up and after a dozen times or so I have to replace the rebar since with works down to nothing. The rest of the rust falls to the bottom. The metal just turning into rust actually will turn into iron oxide that will be a light black coating. However what metal that is gone cannot be replaced. I like it since it is non hazardous and with a 55gal plastic barrel I am able to do large tractor parts and plow parts also.

There is an australia guy with some you tube videos restoring classic cars and he goes into the mollassas process. Takes a while but will remove all rust inside of doors and frames where you cannot get. Very cool stuff!

Well the Youtube video helped but I just do not know why the repair maual says take to dealer. It was time consuming but was very straight forward. Anyone with average skills could easily do it with a couple wrenches and rental tools. For everyone who commented, Thanks!...Rick

I have heard of some guys having luck with deep cleaning since the electricity sometimes will release the gunk from the metal. I have also heard of guys using lye mixed in or soaking their parts in farm grade vinegar? Both are caustic so I have never tried them.

Thanks for that correction. Did not realize I posted the mobile link. Thanks...

I use electrolysis for rust removal allot. I have seen a guy do an entire truck frame. My dad wanted to see how I do it so I made a video last week of a smaller setup. Thought someone could find it useful. http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=hOcmvzYZh64

Guys I use to use this method long ago both in large and small scale. I made a new unit to preserve those parts that can possibly be hard to come by on my new Comanche Project...Camera was broke so all PICs are taken with my cell phone....

Wow...Thanks for the Tips and the story. Well to me $400 for labor is not unreasonable but yet I do not have a chance to get familiar with the front end by doing that. Plus who knows what else they will find. Pep Boys wants $650 parts and labor, The good ole boy down the road wants $522, I just do not know yet what brand of BJ he plans on installing yet. If I do it I can check hubs, brakes, and tie rods. Yet its getting colder, The house I got has no garage and I have surgery in 2 weeks that will stop all work for a few weeks. I just want to get past the inspection so I can make it a drivable project. I have my Durango and bike but I always have at least one project to keep me amused. Everyone keep the ideas coming. In the spring there will be a lift and a frame ON restoration going on.

I am a new to Comanche's. Owned wranglers and Willy's in the past. I traded a K5 blazer for it. Blazer Rear end blew and they guy had one. I had to reinstall the distributor (in wrong) and I fixed the shifting issue with a new TPS (THANKS TO THIS SITE!!!). Wiring issues to the rear all fixed now also. Off course floors (in the spring) My new question is it just failed state inspection for ball joints. Repair guys all want around $400 in labor alone to change them. Haynes will not even show how to do it. So long story shorter....How much pain is the ball joints to do ? Am I better off paying the $400 or renting the hand press? I seen a couple Youtube videos but not sure if they are showing all the steps. Any insight is appreciated. Rick Here is what she looks like... https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fjpbP8dhIbwlKSYKXkUz3V6X4Hc1aoD-asBy7TvOnp8?feat=directlink