Braxton

Crappy fuel pump does not have the nipple on the outlet of the pump and the hose slipped off. Had to pull the pump for the 4th time in a week. Put the hose back on with two clamps and cranked em down as hard as I could. Now I have low and surging idle.

Gonna have to buy a pressure tester tomorrow and check the fuel pressure out. The pump is only a week old. I'll be more than a little upset if I have to get into the tank for a third time in 10 days. And the CPS is fresh and working as far as I can tell, due to having constant spark. How can I test the fuel pressure if it won't stay running though. Any ideas?

Which is why I said "after I hooked it up correctly it ran fine for a week". Now when I try to start it, it acts like it wants to start but won't. When it does start it idles really rough at really low RPM, if I give it gas it dies. It is popping and sounds like its only running on 3 or 4 cylinders. Replaced MAP, TPS, IAC and O2 sensor with no change. Anyone have any ideas?

Drove the jeep for a week without issue. Today I shut the truck off and when I went to start it up 30 min later it would crank but not fire. Checked all my connections and nothing. I fiddled with the map sensor and it wanted to start but would only shutter and die. Finally started but it ran really rough, like it was running out of fuel. When I fiddled with the m sensor while it was running rough it would smooth out for a bit then die. I replaced the MAP sensor with no change. When I hooked up the new wiring harness and was having rough running and die issues I found that I had the map sensor wiring plugged in backwards. Did something get fried and take a week to quit working? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Issue resolved. There is a 3 prong connector that plugs into an assembly on the firewall with a vacume line running into it. Connector was loose.

So I cleaned the grounds and still no luck. I then found a melted and separated fuseable link which provides power to the fuel pump relay. The link was connected to the starter relay. Replaced with a new fuseable link and was able to get it started. Now it won't rum for more than 45 seconds at a time. And when you hit the gas it dies completely. Any ideas on what it is now? I am running a new Bosch fuel pump that the store says is the correct pressure and flow rate for the truck, do I need to look into a bigger fuel pump?

88 4.0, Aw4, 4x4. Two years ago I was having crank but no fire issues, fixed it by running a jump wire to the fuel pump relay. Last week I was driving and the fuse in the jump wire blew for no reason, and kept blowing every fuse I put in. Towed it home and pulled wiring harness. Found a fried fuseable link and reattached the wires. The fuel pump kicked on with the ignition like it is supposed to. Then the next day I was driving home and the wiring that goes from the A/C relay on the passenger side to the driver side of the radiator was smoking and melting. Got it home, and found and installed a wiring harness from an 87 Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, 4x4. Everything hooked up just like the factory harness, but when I turn over the key the fuel pump does not kick on, just like before. Any ideas? I am losing my mind, money and GPA. List of parts replaced two years ago up to now include; Fuel pump yesterday Computer last week Plug Wires Ignition control module Coil Cap Rotor Ballast resistor Ignition switch All 4 relays Wiring harness Any ideas are much appreciated. I just want to get it running so I can sell it.

I thought as much. Thanks for the help.

Will a wiring harness from a 1993 Cherokee with a manual work in my 88 auto? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Checked the grounds and they were not even corroded. Haven't touched the c101. Can't figure out how to disconnect it. I figured since everything is getting power up until the plugs it would have something to do with the starting/ignition system.

Checked the stator by quickly inserting and removing a paper clip in the female side to simulate the stator making contact. Was advised by the parts shop to try this. He said if the engine sputters or shows signs of life then the stator is bad. When I tested with a test light it showed power. Can't afford a multimeter at this time as I am in school full time out of pocket. Only have $100 bucks left to my name to try and get her fixed.

Not sure where the dist stator connector is located. And all I have is a test light. So cannot check actual voltage.

Pulled all 6 plugs to check and there is no spark. As far as the fuel, I've checked at the scrader valve and have fuel.

Forgot to mention its a 4.0, automatic, short bed.

Hello all, I have an 88 pioneer with 155000 miles. The other day while I was coming home I went over a speed bump at about 7 miles an hour and my truck sputtered and died. After that it would not start. Having had a similar crank and no fire issue before, I swapped out the Crank Shaft Position Sensor, but it did not fix the issue. 4 sensor later, there is still no fire. Here is a list of things I have checked so far; Plugs Wires Cap Rotor Coil CPS x4 Every connection I under the hood has been cleaned and re-connected The two sensors on the throttle body The four relays on the passenger side All fuses under the dash My truck has been down for over a week and I need to get it running as soon as possible. Any insight is much appreciated. I only have a test light to work with as far as checking for power. The coil has power, and the coil to dist has power, but there is no power reaching the spark plugs. I know I have fuel reaching the rail, as it is hooked to a toggle switch. When it's on, the pump is running and fuel is reaching the rail. Anything I might have missed?

Sorry, o have the D30/D35 combo in the truck right now. The cheapest I have been able to find a D44 for is around $450 bucks. That plus the gears and getting the mounts for the 44 to mount to my truck is more than I paid for the truck, plus I don't know anyone in the state that would not charge me an arm an a leg for the fab work.

The junkyards out my way want gold for rusted crap so getting a set of Axles from there is pretty much a no go. I currently have a 2 inch budget boost that I'm pretty sure I'm going to stick with for a while. I'm looking to go gor as much flex as possible with as little lift as possible, kinda like the whole Lower 40 idea. As for the gears I have a guy who will install new gears and carriers for $560 out the door. Not really one of my skill sets was going to take the Comanche in next week but wanted to try to get a general feel for the gearing that would work best for me.

So going with 4.10s would increase the power felt at the wheels while helping a bit in the fuel use department. In your opinion would you suggest 4,10 then?

Hellio all, I have an 88 Shortbed Pioneer with a 4.0 @139,000 and a rebuilt AW4 tranny. I am currently runnung 31's with intentions of going to 33's. I drive mostly city and highway with not too much serious off roading, my question is will 4.10's be enough gear for highway speeds or should i go higher like a 4.56. i need highway speeds and the current gears just suck down the gas when I'm heading up I-70 in CO. Any imput is appretiated.

I have an 88 Pioneer Short Bed with the I6 and AW4. I am wanting to converto to a diesel engine and was wondering if anyone knows of an engine that will drop in with as little fabrication as possible. I am not looking to put a huge super duty engine in, just something diesel that will have enough power to turn 31s at highway speeds. I want to convert away from gas so i can run a vegitable oil set up. With average prices for gas over 5 bucks and massive shortages coming, i want options other than walking. any help with engine suggestions is much appretiated.