1986goose

Final result: Total shims added: 0.0035”

0.005” IMG_3805.mov

For reference, I have added 0.004” (four-one thousandths) to the pinion depth. I’m going to remove 0.0005” (I have 0.0015” shims) to bring it to the middle of the tooth.

You can put shims beneath the race for the pinion inside (larger) bearing. I did some research and I need to use a caliper to find the difference in depth from the old pinion to new pinion. I’ll start there

Ok but if you had to guess

How’s my pattern boys? I’m putting Yukon gears into a Chrysler 8.25 I pulled from the junkyard so I can put that into my 86 MJ. Right now I’m running an open diff 4.10 D35. Any recommendation on how many shims I need to set pinion depth? I’m guessing at least 0.004” lol. It’s really bad maybe I should jump to 0.006” I only want to put it back together once. Thanks,

I gave some guy $200 to remove the motor from his 88 XJ so I could put it in my 86 MJ. Took me a few weekends but I got the POS 2.5l and ax-5 outta there and mounted the 4.0 with only minor massages to the firewall. Started up as soon as I plugged the harness in and hooked up the fuel lines. Only problem is that it leaked - from everywhere. Valve cover and oil filter jobs were easy. I knew it was the rear main bc what else ya know it was a $200 motor. First try - new rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Drained the oil and took it all apart. The old rear main was cracked and damn near seized inside the bearing cap. Got it out, blasted with brake clean and brass brush, autozone silicone only where specified by installation manual. Let dry for 48 hours. Leaking again immediately. Second try - new rear main but reused the blue fel-pro oil pan gasket cause I’m cheap. Did some digging and some people said they had success with anaerobic gasket maker (the kind that makes a plastic seal when torqued between two steel faces). Went a little crazy and put it on the entire bearing cap face. Let cure for a week. Leaking again - probably worse. Third try - I work construction and saw that one of my vendors had sent too many tubes of this industrial blue loctite silicone gasket maker. Why not try it? New oil pan gasket, new rear main. Spent extra time cleaning each and every with razor blade and brass brush and used lots of brake clean. Squeezed this blue stuff up into the bearing cap on each side, stuck the upper piece in, more blue stuff in the seat of the lower bearing cap, more blue stuff on the face all around the cap, and a 1/8” bead of it on top and bottom of the new oil pan gasket. It’s actually the same color as the blue fel-pro gasket. Let cure for a week. No leaks. Use this stuff.