Ken Seymour

Found out what went wrong. I have the wrong cable. I needed the long one. That Jeep Guy. Thanks for your pictures. Thanks everyone.

I'm almost done with my truck. I'm changing my 87 Comanche to a floor shifter. I put a full gauge cluster in and I can't modify the panel for the column shift gear indicator. The question. Are there two different floors. One for column and one for floor? There's a black plug in my floor but it's on the passenger side of the hump. I have a dimple on the driver side but it's not cut out. Cory at Jeep Cemetery doesn't run into automatic transmissions often and can't tell me where the shift cable is supposed to go through. I have the 87-90 cable with the rubber seal on it. Any help greatly appreciated.

The fuel pump is running. I can hear it. The starter is a new Bosch. And the engine turns over. It ran perfectly for 30 minutes. I was moving things on the property and was maneuvering to put it back into my shop. I had just backed up to take another shot at it and it just quit. Like I turned the key. Would not restart immediately. I had to wait more than 5 less 10 minutes then it started. It has happened twice before a few months ago. Haven't run it as I was finishing up the front end. New front frame crossmember, new front header panel and new fenders.

Got the fuel level sender fixed. I was testing the truck today and it quit. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't. Had to wait 10 minutes. It finally caught and started and ran fine. The fuel pump was still running so it's not that. Been told it is the crank sensor. I can't find any mention of one in the manuals I have. Another mention was an automatic shutdown relay. Also can't find one of those in my orange book of schematics. Anyone run into the same problem?

I got it. I plugged in the DVM on ohms. With it hooked up to the sender I installed the pump. Adjusted it till the meter was registering resistance and installed the lock ring. Tighten the ring and checked the DVM again. 8.2 ohms. The gauge is off the bottom above the the red square. Low fuel light is finally out. The float was catching on the metal baffle in the tank.

Just so there's no confusion the Sling2 is an airplane. The wood dowel I use is a backup cross check for the fuel gauge.

Checked that. The float is empty. I'm going to check how high the fuel is in the tank. I pumped it out and put about 6 gallons back in. I have the basic tank. I'll make a wood dipstick and use my visegripes to hold on to it. I'll see how high it gets wet. I use one on the Sling2 I fly to cross check the fuel gauge in the cockpit. It's marked in gallons.

Pete Going to have to measure. So the float can't get caught. I'm off all week so I'll figure out a way to dipstick it. When I pulled the pump I pumped it till the pump stopped pumping. After I tested the sender l put 5 gallons+ in the tank. Does anybody know what the band of metal in the bottom is? It's not a baffle. Thanks Ken

I'm having trouble with the sender in the tank. I get nothing on the gauge. I have tested the sender outside of the tank. With the pump relay removed I moved the float by hand. The needle tracks the sender. All the way down E. All the way up F. In the middle 1/2. So it works. Put it in the tank the needle sits on E and the low fuel warning lights. Guessing about 6 gallons in the tank. Gasket and locking ring in place. When I had the tank out I cleaned it and put a used pump in. Pump works and the engine runs. I noticed that there is something in the bottom of the tank. Looks like a rectangular metal object about 2 inches tall. Is there anything that the float can get stuck on? Or the thing works there's just not enough fuel in the tank to register? Thanks

Been a while. I'm working on the driver side door I bought. I am trying to remove the vent window. The body manual is awful when it comes to instructions to accomplish this. All three screws are out and the window and track are tilted back. I have the track pulled up but can't get it out the window slot. I did not pull the rubber wiper. The bottom track mount hits. Does it need to be off? Also want to put my original lock in the door so the right and left side match.

Thank you all for your help. I think the guy that writes the description for the automotive websites should be fired. It shouldn't be confusing. I'll get one ordered. Thanks again

2WD short bed no cruise. It's a base. No carpet. My original cable is a about 72". I found one on eBay 53006182. The fool is trying to get 25 dollars for it. The white plastic speedometer end has one side missing. Worst case scenario I will have to machine up some reinforcements for the ends and fix it.

I need some help. The previous owner completely destroyed the cable and I need repair it or replace it. Both ends are torn out of the connector. The inner cable is fine. I have been searching for a replacement but I'm confused. Thanks

Make sense. So in Drive it is trying to takeoff in OD overdrive. I'll need to figure out how to fix it. Thanks

Since I'm not done with repairs I can't take it off the property yet so doesn't get to shift. I need to drop it out of the truck to clean the case. I don't want to damage it with dirt changing the cable. I don't want to spend $400 on rebuilding it if the kick down being out of position is messing with it in drive. The pictures only tell part of the story. This truck has been horribly abused.

I drove my 87 2wd Comanche around my property yesterday for the first time. In drive you need to give it more throttle than it should take. Shift into first and the takeoff is normal. The kick down cable end is broken and disconnected from the throttle body. Does that make a difference? Cory at Jeep Cemetery got me one. I have to drop the transmission to put it in. The transmission is just too dirty to do it without dropping it. 1987 Comanche 4.0l AW4 2WD

I'm replacing my battery tray in the Comanche. Got the plywood out of where the tray belongs. I have liquid wrench on the bolts/nuts. Which are they? Can I use the torch to get them red hot? After clearing all the flammable stuff.

I ran across it looking for the factory shop manuals. Got it Friday and went through it. Glad I did. I would have cut it in the wrong place to. Hope the information will make things easier. Knowledge is power.

The M.R. 278 manual shows where to cut. Where to drill out spot welds. How and when to use a particular tool. Page in my manual shows how the remove the B pillar inner panel so I can get the dents out of the outer. I'll be able to weld the panel back in after the outer is straight. People selling parts on eBay are cutting the sheet metal in the wrong place. Found a pillar on ebay and almost bought it. Took a good look and they had chopped it off with a saws all. It's junk. The cab corners that are being sold are the same thing. Cut with a saws all. Just saying. The outer panel can only be cut up at the vent. Inner, cut it anywhere. The sill is a high strength steel. Welding must done with the right process. Under no circumstances can you ARC weld the body. MIG is recommended.

Thank you both. I haven't had to repair or replace as much on a Jeep before. If it could get broken they broke it. Thanks for the heads up on the windshield. I have two ZJ. 93 and 94. 4.0 in the 93 and 5.2 in the 94. Radiator and water pump in the 93. Water pump, timing chain cover gasket, transfer case viscous clutch in the 94. Quarter of a million miles on both. Thanks again. I'm here to learn.

Pete, good to know. I have rebuilt 2 Jaguars. 62 and 64 MKII. The 62 I had the windscreen and rear window out for paint and a new rubber seal. I managed to get the windows in without breaking them.

Great, worse case I will pull the one out of the 93 4dr Cherokee at pick n pull. The poor thing was not treated well by the person who owned it before me. It's a 2 wheel 4.0l short bed. This is my second mj but the first I have to evect the previous owner. Thanks for the information.

Cherokee model years compatible with 87 xj. Need a windshield. I assume that 84-96 4door Cherokees everything fits. Thanks