InTacosWeTrust

Where do you find that flywheel and updated pilot bearing?

I did not, had no idea I needed to or needed to replace or resurface it

Thank you!, so I guess from this video I’m going to buy the Novak ax15 trans from them, buy the AA parts I got quoted, along with a new throw out bearing, flywheel, input shaft seal. If I’m leaving anything out let me know, i figure I would use the same clutch kit and master since I replaced it less than 100 miles ago and the clutch kit is a for a 1992 any recommendations on flywheels?

Would I need a new clutch or do you know if the one from AA or Novak comes with one already? I just put in a new master as well, would that not work with the slave from their kit? AA quoted me this and told me this is all I would need

Would you have an exact parts list of everything I need besides the transmission? Would I need a new transfer case?

If I can get everything needed, just need a parts list if anyone has one for the transmission and external slave so all I have to do is bolt and go, I’ve looked up and tried to get a list but I don’t know if I’m missing things or over buying, there’s information out here, just hard not to get lost in the sauce while researching

Hello, seeking advice on putting in a new ax15 in my 87. Currently have an ax15, don’t know the year or anything about it, other than I replaced the clutch, master and slave, and oil in it recently. My synchros are going out between 3rd and 4th and when it’s hot, it either binds or grinds or doesn’t want to shift unless I manage to shift into 5th, reverse, 1st or 2nd after multiple shifts to those gears to free it up. Anyways, I’m looking for a new turn key ax15, just need to know where I can buy one ready to go with all the fix’ns on it so I can bolt it on and drive it on. I’ll eventually get around to rebuilding the old one. A neighbor of mine has an extra 4.0 he said he’s gonna give me, so I'm going to rebuild up that motor and the old trans as a project.

Update: Changed the oil to Redline MT90 Replaced the MC and Slave and replaced the clutch with a M-PACT01034WSST1X Clutch kit. Replaced the lines and fluid with Dot 4. had to use an adjustable clutch push rod on the Mc because it was to short. When I let off the clutch ever so slightly, it shutters and feels likes it still wants to grab, no matter how high the rpm’s are. Idk if it’s a new clutch or if it’s the type of clutch it is. Truck still grinds going into 3rd and 4th. Haven’t drove it enough yet to see if there is anymore issues like it was having, still sounding like it’s the synchro’s. do I guess next big project will just be to replace the whole transmission see that buying synchros and having a shop do that work will be roughly the same cost.

Will these will work with the internal slave cylinder instead of an external?

The one I have now has that pin fitting style, do you have a part number for that AA one? Also the fitting size and line I need to get from master to slave?

Now the next question, when replacing the clutch master cylinder since I have the ax 15 trans in my 87, do I go for the 87-90 on rock auto or the 91-92 ones?

Yes, I’m very curious about the timken one as well! I’m honestly not sure which one I should go with, I want to have a good quality one. also on rock auto there is a clutch release bearing.. under the 92 Comanche, it looks like a slave cylinder idk if it’s the same thing just under a different name

What axles do you recommend? Or is there an upgraded ring and pinion set up I can get?

I have not, it’s been running fine for a year, I honestly don’t think why I should, you know, but if you have any insight to why I should bleed the clutch after so long of everything working as it should I would love to gain that knowledge, not saying your idea is wrong in anyway, just want that knowledge

Okay, that’s what I thought just sucks that I just did that a year ago

I replaced my whole suspension recently, all components except for the axles which were put on by po, po also said it has a lunch box front end whatever that means.. it was on a 6 inch and 35s before i replaced it with the 8in Rusty’s long arm, I replaced my steering box with a read head 4 turn, replaced the steering arm and link, new: steering box mount, steering stabilizer, over the knuckle steering system, upper and lower ball joints, wheel bearings, brake rotors and pads, upgraded brake master cylinder and BB, axle shafts and the 8inch long arm. most everything came from Rusty’s. New 35s and wheels as well.

Any recommendations on a good throw out bearing and p/n? or is the internal slave the “throw-out bearing” of so still would love any good recommendations as well

Okay, good to know! Honestly just trying to get as much knowledge as I can and fix this issue, and hydraulic system meaning the slave cylinder? So my best bet would be to replace the slave cylinder??.. and see if that fixes the issue?.. after my fluid change of course.

when I replaced my clutch, master and slave a year ago, I replaced it with the LUK 01034 Clutch Kit, I’m not denying it, but honestly it’s hard to wrap my head around and believe that the slave, or even clutch has failed since everyone in this club pretty much recommends and says it’s one of the best kits to get, but things do fail no matter how many good reviews, it’s just hard to believe you know, but like Htchevyii said, his failed after 10k miles.

Does anyone have any insight on these m-pact clutch kits off rock auto? I talked to one of the techs over the phone to gain more insight and overall for my use of the truck and applications he recommended the M-PACT 01034WSST1X Clutch kit

You have me curious on what other problems may occur since I’m over 8 inches lol, I have a Dana 30 in the front, and the 8.25 in the back and I am re-geared to 4.88. With working 4wd. Just trying to see what I missed and needs to be covered

So what is a good external slave adapter? I’ll probably replace the clutch, master, and slave as well, is there a good heavy duty kit? I’m lifted on 8 inches w/ 35s I plan on going to bigger tires in the future, turning this truck into an overland/ off road vehicle that I do want to drive on road on occasion

All I have done so far since I’ve been so busy, is drain the fluid. fluid looks kinda dirty not really that bad, slight small metal shavings gunk on the drain bolt, but when I drained the oil out of the tranny, a lot of it came out of the fill hole first… is that normal?… which caught me by surprise, then I unscrewed the drain bolt and then the rest came out from there

In my 87 4wd 4.0, the po put an ax-15 in it the 1st gen 90’s one. Since having the truck I’ve replaced a new master and slave, along with the luk 01901 clutch kit around a year ago, the guy that replaced it for me also changed the transmission fluid, fast forward to around a couple months or so after, I noticed slight grinding to shift into 4th, now about a whole year later only when the trans gets hot and especially when it’s really hot outside, (the cooler weather doesn’t really affect the shifting at all) it’s hard to shift into 2nd, 3rd and 4th with binding and grinding and I have to slam it hard into gear, and sometimes when I try to shift from gear to gear it feels like it binds, almost like it is still in gear, when the shifter is in the neutral position and clutch pedal is still pressed in, like the shifter pulls the gears into neutral and it’s not free and all. I’ve already planned on changing my and purchased the transmission fluid to redline mt-90, but haven’t done it since a week later since I bought the fluid it started doing this. Should I buy a new transmission? Change the fluid and see if it fixes it? Take it to a transmission shop and have them replace the synchronizers? Theres alot of options, some cost more than others, I’m not made of money but I also want to know what is the best or a good solution to fix this issue, any advice on what this issue with the transmission could be? And what solution I have or haven’t thought of would be best