TeKdo

That's probably my problem, the rubber seals on the sliders are perished and brittle. Can I replace those with the glass in the truck or I do have to disassemble everything to fix this?

Yeah no, mine is 4 pieces. It's got a 2 piece center window that slider half to each side of the cab. It's the same from some old GM square bodies from what I've seen. I do know that all the glass except for the windshield in this truck is original and it's never been out.

Been a busy morning but here's a pic of the setup on my glass...I'm assuming that since you're asking about the screws that they're not factory The other side is fastened to the window the same way too

Mine has little Phillips head screws holding the latch to the glass. There's 2 screws per side and. They go to a backing plate on the outside of the window. I'll take a picture tomorrow if it's confusing too.

If that's the case, then I'm gonna add silicon or putty or something to the back of this thing. The screws are tightened as far as they'll go and I can't stand the rattle on this thing right next to my head. My Comanche is my daily for the winter and I definitely can't live with the rattle every day for a couple hours.

Does anyone know the thickness of the rubber isolators that are supposed to go behind the split window latch are? Or at least it's what I think feels like a rubber isolator. Ever since the weather's been in the 30s and 40s here my rear glass has been rattling at the latch and I can see/feel what is supposed to be a rubber isolator on the back of the latch that has just shrunk over time. I'm guestimating it to be between 1 or 2mm but wanted to double check to see if anyone has an exact measurement so I can order a rubber sheet to make a new isolator. I've got a piece of cardboard wedge in right now just to stop the rattle.

Gotcha, thanks for explaining it to me because it was driving me crazy. Eagle_SX4's explanation makes sense too since I was driving around town all night last night (my Comanche is currently my winter delivery vehicle). Gonna try a 36 tooth gear to see if that fixes it and I might look into trying to trim the cable to see if I can clean up that little needle bounce.

That's what I'm leaning towards right now, but it is dead accurate at anything below 45. I can sit at 35mph indicated on the cluster and it's 35 - 36 mph GPS speed and the odometer matches up with how far I've driven in GPS tracked distance (I did 80 miles yesterday and it matches to my 80 miles logged on gps). Would an incorrect speedo gear read low only at highway speeds or everywhere?

They're actually about 28.88 inches tall according to the Spicer calculator. I'm running a 235/75/15 right now.

Just did a gauge cluster swap on my '86 Comanche to an '87 - '89 Cherokee gauge cluster (long story) and I've been having a little bit of speedometer trouble. Got a new cable (ATP Y914) and a new drive gear (37 tooth for 4.10 and 29" tires according to the Novak Chart), but the speedometer isn't accurate at highway speeds. At speeds below it's dead accurate...or at least withing 1 -2 miles of GPS indicated depending on how fast the GPS refreshes, but after about 45, it reads 5mph slow. Weird part is that the trip meter is accurate within 0.5 miles and odometer is spot on. There is a little bit of needle bounce at lower speeds which I'd expect at an old cable driven system and it's really smooth at about 60mph indicated (65mph GPS). Cable is fully seated onto the cluster (snapped on and can't be pulled off without moving the locking collar), speedometer drive housing is clocked properly, cable is fully screwed into the drive housing, and the cable is secured well to the chassis and doesn't have any sharp bends or kinks. Is the speedo something I'm just gonna have to live with or is my cheap cable what's causing it to read slow? I've heard of people slowly grinding down the speedo cable at the drive gear end to help reduce the needle wiggle, but I dunno if that would help with the mystery 5mph drift at highway speeds. I do know, or at least kind of remember, that the speedo cable at the drive gear housing doesn't actually have the plastic sheathing touching the actual housing when I push the cable all the way in...maybe this could be a bind? I've also heard of people pulling the speedometer cable about a 1/2" out of the sleeve at the gauge side for more engagement, but I'm hesitant to do that because the engagement felt good and the odometer is pretty damn accurate. Starting to think that this might just be a curse of Wheezey because the old gauge cluster did a similar thing but I know that the cable and drive gear on that old setup was hashed...but this stuff is all new.

For what it's worth, I do know that the 207 and 231 tail shaft housings are completely different. Same bolt pattern but the 207 has a lip below the flange.

That would've been a really cool solution if I had something other than a 207, unfortunately the 207 speedo cable can't receive any of the other transfer case's drive gears though. It's a really weird unit and they only make one drive gear for it now and I think it only really accommodates 4.10s and 28 inch tall tires from what I found when I wanted to correct my speedo (when it worked) to a 29" tire. Weirdo 207 drive gear here:

With the Cherokee cluster, I plan on just using an 87-90 speedo cable since everything would match.

Good to know, I'm half decent with electronics and dangerous with a soldering iron lol. As for the speedo cable, it haven't been able to use it because the cable that went to my NP207 before is a LOT smaller than the one for the 231, I've just got the speedo hole plugged for now since the speedometer cable ends at the cluster are different anyways.

Does anyone know when Jeep switched to the adjustable tachometers for Renix? I've got an '86 with the full 6-Gauge cluster but they're finally going out. Oil Pressure gauge is dead, tachometer is dead, fuel gauge is on the fritz, and I havent been able to use the Speedometer ever since I did my AX15 and 231 swap, and even then the trip meter, odometer, and speedometer were broken. I did troubleshoot the cluster using the '90 FSM and everything on the vehicle side is good, it's the cluster itself that's out of spec for most of the measurements. So, I'd like to throw in a Cherokee cluster, but I have a little 4 banger in my Jeep and a vast majority of the gauge clusters are for 4.0s. I've heard that the late model clusters have an adjustable potentiometer for the tach, but I don't know what the year cutoff is or what the physical identifiers for the adjustable tachometers are Current state of my patchwork cluster included for giggles

It probably does happen quicker than what I'm saying, it's probably just me being paranoid of changing this thing. I'll look into cleaning and regreasing the ISA later on. For now I'm just happy that I don't have to feather the gas on cold starts now.

Your post is exactly what I followed! Worked like a charm. Also, just to clarify, when I mean slow idle down, it does that while driving and coming to a stop as well. That's what I meant when I said the idle is catching.

Sweet, good to know that I actually set it up right

Finally decided to get my ISA working properly again. Nabbed a fresh one off of a '90 El Dorado at the JY. Got it installed and adjusted properly, but it's a little slow to come down to idle at a stop. It will "catch" the revs right around 1500rpm and then slowly idle the engine down to just below 1000rpm over the course of 5 to 10 seconds. Is this how the system is supposed to properly work? Never had a proper working ISA on this Jeep so I don't have a reference.

Sweet, good to know. Also I actually happen have the wiper delay combo switch on my column already, my old wiper delay module just died so I have it out of the truck right now. Edit: I do currently have wipers that work on the truck, I just plugged in the connectors that are supposed to go into the wiper module into one another to bypass the module. Wipers work at low and high and I still have mist and washer jets too, just no delay

Finally decided that it's time to get my wiper delay working properly as the rainy season starts here in Washington. Just wondering what models I can rob from at the junkyard for my old '86. I've heard of XJ guys using ZJ wiper delay modules but I dunno if they'd work in a Comanche because of the Rear Wipe function.

Would that explain why i can't find the vacuum leak by spraying starting fluid at all the vac connections?

Update: The idle dropped down to 1100 outta nowhere. Took the Comanche for a little trip today because I needed a pickup truck. Did about an hour of highway driving, 60 - 70 miles an hour at ~2500rpm. Round trip was 86 miles total. When I left the house truck still idled at 1300 and now here we are at 1100. What the heck is going on. Could the EGR valve be partially stuck open with carbon and its slowly clearing up with long heat cycles?

Thank you for the help and insight! Will be replacing that block octopus thing with vac lines when i have a chance.