TeKdo

Will be looking into this, normally avoid AutoZone because I've been burned so many times for dontlast parts lol

I don't think I'd need that big of a cooling upgrade for old wheezey lol. I have an aluminum radiator and it's only a 2.5. Most of the time I'm driving around 55 to 65mph and hauling around my motorcycles or something for a home project. From what I've seen the radiator for my truck is way narrower than what's spec'd for a 4.0, that's why I thought about doing a single big Taurus or MK8 fan if I do go the e-fan route

I'm leaning towards just sticking with the mechanical fan, it works and it's simple. I just hate having to replace these cheap Chinese parts once a year! Yeah it's only a couple of bolts but it's dumb that something this simple would even fail in a year. The original one lasted 40 years, what the hell happened to any form of quality!

Limited lifetime. Haven't had any luck with getting anything waranteed through a napa near me for parts on this guy though.

The the I can just watch the temp drop and then come back up when the thermostat closes again as I'm merging onto the freeway. The thermostat definitely opens and closes, scalding heat in the cab when it gets up to temp too. I just can't even move the fan when the truck is dead cold and the suction it has at idle is impressive, even the dual Mishimoto fans on my Miata didn't have this much pull.

Well, its been awhile because old Wheezey has been running pretty darn good and I've primarily been riding my motorcycles around town but I've managed to break another thing! My stupid fan clutch is once again stuck "on" and it takes forever for the truck to heat up in the morning now. I replaced the clutch fan last year with an off the shelf NAPA unit but if they're only gonna last a year id like to save my 70$. So, is there a better alternative? Junkyard fan clutches? Better Chinese Parts? Or do I just go for an electric fan? I was thinking about getting a Taurus or MK8 fan and using a Dakota Digital fan controller to run the show since I already have a 100a 12SI alternator conversion, but I do like how simple the clutch fan is and it keeps the truck nice and cool during the summer months. Any info is appreciated!

That's what I have my brother for lol

Cool, I will be trying that adjustment when I get off of work tonight.

A process like that is kinda what I was suspecting. I remember nickintime talking about that in one of his 2.5 videos, but he never went into the process of how to do it with a voltmeter...he just used his REM system to find when the TPS read as fully closed. Is that 4.63V regardless of input voltage btw? I know that the input voltage for my sensor reads a 5.13 or 5.15V.

The old calculations were with the AX15. The speedo and Odo are also accurate to both GPS and gear calculator specs. We do have winter blend gas here in WA and I knew that it would get less mpg than normal summer gas but I didn't think it'd be 4 to 5 mpg

Hey guys just wanted to double check how people are setting the TPS on the Renix 2.5 because I've been getting less than stellar gas mileage since I replaced mine. My OEM TPS died after 40 years which is a good run so I replaced it with a Standard Ignition part. Right now, I have the output voltage set to 17% of the input voltage with the ISA fully retracted as it would be when idling at a stoplight. I set the output to 17% of the input because that's what cruiser recommended and what the '90 fsm recommended as well. Just wanted to clarify that I was setting the TPS at the right ISA position and at the right percentage of output voltage. I've been averaging about 16.8 to 17.5 mpg for 90% city driving. Only major mod this truck has is an AX15 and NP231 swap (from the stock AX5 and NP207). It does have all new sensors except for a MAT sensor because I can't find on that is the right specs. Other than that it's a bone stock Comanche 235/75/15s on stock wheels. Dana 30/35 combo and 4.10s. it does weight right around 3700lbs with me in it and with about 12 gallons of gas but I don't really see why I'd be getting mediocre mileage around town with this truck when it used to average 18 to 20 around town during the summer other than a weirdly adjusted TPS.

Interesting, I should take a proper tape measure to it instead of guestimating what it should look like based off of what my Grandpa and Dad remember it looking like almost 40 years ago...the leaf springs at ride height still have an arch and aren't flattened out and the whole truck still has a visual rake that it would've had from the factory but yeah it was noticably lower once we loaded a motorcycle on it recently (roughly 500lbs). Yeah, I've got loads of space to get at the diff with the long bed. I rebuilt the Dana 35 over the summer on the ground with it in the truck there's so much space under there. And I'm way too nervous about getting stuck or destroying the bed to do any hardcore offroading. There's basically no rust outside of surface rust on my MJ thankfully. It's been sitting in the front yard of my grandparents house since the mid-90s in California...and it's been a northern California truck all it's life, it's the one and only new vehicle my grandpa ever bought.

That's also why I haven't made any modifications to the rear suspension. My load sensing prop valve works amazingly and I really don't want to screw it up.

Besides adding a drain plug, do those aftermarket covers actually do anything? I know about the aeration problem from the Banks Power testing videos but do they actually add strength to the housing to prevent bending or is it just a blind piece that is a little more rock resistant? I did not know that you could get leasprings re-arched. Always thought that you just need to replace them. I'm not 100% sure I need to re arch them because they still have good arch in them and are about the correct ride height for a Comanche as long as it doesnt have a load in it. The springs start to sag once you have about 500lbs (or roughly 226kg) in the bed. I have thought about just getting Metric Ton spring or new standard springs if mine are just plain wore out though.

That's what my truck looks like whenever I take it out to grab building materials for stuff around the house! I always thought I was overloading it, almost considering adding airbags or another overload leaf to being the headlights back down when I'm hauling stuff just so I don't blindly people.

Interesting, I haven't come across those guys in my search for axles yet. The only one that I found for non C-Clip 35s was Alloy USA and their axles were also a little confusing. I've got the Wrangler Trail runner ATs on the truck right now, nowhere has Duratracs in stock and I didn't have the money at the time and they matched the 20 year old Wranglers I took off the truck. I think 4.88s would make this thing way more drive able, I might even be able to climb hills in 4th gear! Also I ditched the AX5 for an AX15 with an Advance Adapters Swap Kit. What application are you guys seeing Alloy Axles for the Non C-Clip 35 on Rock Auto for? Whenever I search for something like an 86 Comanche I only ever get alloy axles for a Dana 44 in the search.

Good to know. I'm pretty ginger with the clutch in my truck because I'm afraid that I'll break something again and I really don't want to drop the transmission and transfer case to fix it again. I'll probably just look into re-gearing the 30 and 35 to save some time instead of doing a full axle swap for basically no reason. I mainly want to switch to 31s for tire availability. Most places that I've been its really easy to get your hands on 31/10.50/15s with 235/75/15s needing to be ordered at least a day or two ahead. I don't really mind doing that when I just need to replace a tire because it's wore out, but I do get nervous while road tripping this thing about getting the dreaded double flat and needing to replace a pair of tires. I've unfortunately had that bad luck on multiple road trips and its been a headache every time that it's happened because of the car's stupid tire size (not specifically for 235/75/15s, but for 205/50/15s and 195/50/15s on smaller cars). While I have thought that switching to a harder compound would probably lead to a higher chance of the axle surviving...I can't bring myself to put HTs on this truck. It's been on the same style Goodyear Wranglers for the better part of 40 years...its how my Grandpa bought the truck back in '86 and I don't really want to go and change the style that he had it in too much. I would definitely want to have the white lettering back though, the new Goodyears that I put on this thing to get it back on the road are all black and just don't quite look right. Either way the tires are coming at a way later date when these things are wore out, the re-gear is the most important thing that needs to happen to the truck next, the 2.5 feels way gutless with the AX15s gear ratios compared to the stock AX5. Also if 235/75/15 is a common tire size and I just got unlucky when I went tire shopping over the summer please let me know, I'd probably keep running this tire size if that was the case.

It's your favorite, uniformed Comanche owner back again to ask more questions about the mighty Dana 35. In my last post I was asking about the differences between an XJ and Liberty 8.25 since I want to regear my Comanche. A lot of people had suggested that since I only want to run 31s and I have the mighty 2.5, I should just stick with the Dana 35 since an 8.25 with 31s would be about the same ground clearance as the Dana 35 with 29's. So I tried to do more research on the Dana 35 but mainly came up with "Just run a Super 35 kit" or "Turdy5 is junk, get rid of it", with one outlier from this forum saying that the non C-Clip Dana 35s were stout little axles for what they were designed to do. The Dana 35 in my Comanche is a NON C-Clip Dana 35. I unfortunately cannot run a Super 35 kit in this axle because Superior no longer offers an alloy axles shaft kit for NON C-CLIP Dana 35s. This is the main reason I would swap the axle. I am really really paranoid of breaking an axle shaft and having the truck be down while I search for a spare axle shaft and I fell victim to the forum legend of the AX5 fragility multiple times). By my math, I would need to run a 4.88 final drive to bring my truck back to stock ratios with 31s (I have an AX15 swap that has different ratios from the AX5 for 5th and 1st). I would also like to swap out the factory Trak Lok limited slip to a Yukon Duragrip, Sparan Helical, or Eaton Truectrac LSD in the future once it's worn out. So, would my Dana 35 disintegrate it's stock axle shafts with 4.88s and a Limited slip? I don't do a whole lot of offroading, mainly just hauling motorcycles and other junk with my truck. I have gotten close to the stock recommended payload before (right around 1000lbs plus me and my dad in the cab) but I also know that my truck is a little bit lighter than the stock specification as well (Right around 3100lbs with a half tank and me in the driver's seat). The only hard thing that this axle sees besides me hauling junk to the dump are clutch kicking in the snow, losing grip and regaining grip while turning on patchy surfaces in the wet and towing my brother's Civic out of the snow whenever he gets stuck. Sorry if I seem really dumb, I really don't know a whole lot about Jeeps once I mostly deal with import cars and motorcycles and finding information on what I can and can't do with this axle has been frustrating.

Interesting. When I was running the math with the Spicer gear calculator, 31s and 4.56s actually brought me back closer to the stock AX5 and 28s cruising speed. With 28.8" or 29" tall tires it really feels like it wants more rpm to cruise comfortably with the AX15. AX5s stock fifth gear is 0.85 vs the ax15s 0.79 ratio which is about 6mph difference at 2800rpm (where the AX5 would have been sitting in fifth gear at 65 mph). To cruise at the same rpm as stock where the engine feels like it isn't being lugged id have to be going about 75mph with the AX15. If I swap to 4.56s and 31s I can bring down the cruising speed to 71mph or if I did 4.88s I can cruise back down at the stock speed of 67mph at 2800rpm. I think 4.56s and 31s would feel like too much with an automatic and a 4.0, but with the stock 4.10 gearing the 2.5 feels way underpowered, even with just an inch taller tire....and the math says I should shorten up the gearing a lot to bring it back to stock. Especially first gear going uphill, the AX15 feels way gutless compared to the AX5 (AX15 first gear is 3.83 and AX5 is 3.92), a little help from the final drive would be awesome for my application.

Interesting. When I checked Revolution Gear for alloy axles for the D35 they only had axles for C-Clip D35s now. The only other companies I saw that made them for the non C-Clip axles were Ten Factory (which only comes in 30 spline applications) and Alloy USA (which is only selling drivers side axles for some reason). I'll take a look at rock auto though, didn't think too check them for axles. I'm definitely staying away from the 8.8 for my application though, I've heard the parking brake is really weak and I need the parking brake.

Hey guys, been playing around with some thoughts about an axle swap in my '86 2.5. My '86 feels like it desperately needs a regear after doing my AX15 swap. First gear feels way too tall for the power I make and 5th gear is borderline unusable on the freeway. I thought I would just regear my factory D35 non-c-clip since it has a factory limited slip and I should be able to find some kind of alloy axles to swap into it. Well...turns out alloy axles for the D35 NON-C-CLIP are virtually non-existent anymore in a 27 spline. Definitely don't feel like dropping the cash on a new limited slip 30 spline soooo looking at an axle swap because y'all make me paranoid of having this axle long term. Not concerned with having a locker in the back because just having a limited slip meets my needs more than a locker. Would like to run 4.56s and a current max tire size of 31s. I'm just wondering if anyone has used the Liberty 8.25s instead of the XJ 8.25s. I tha people use Liberty disc brakes to convert the XJs but is there anything else that's different besides that? Mainly because if I have to hack all the suspension mounts to weld on spring perches for spring under axle, why wouldn't I just grab a Liberty one instead of an XJ one? My main concern for the Liberty 8.25 is if it's compatible with the same limited slips that are available for the XJ ones, if the parking brake works good enough to park on hills since my jeep is manual, and if it has 29 spline axle shafts for that said diff compatibility. .....also liberty axles are cheaper than XJ axles near me.

I guess that's mystery solved then, I'm gonna look into adding a vibration damper of some kind behind the latch. Confirmed my rattle is coming from the latch specifically since the window is square in the frame and goes away when I just touch the latch. I'll see how roadkill I can get with this solution soon

I can see that now. I also just noticed that the latch even cays CRL on it.

Could you get a Laurence slider to fit into the factory glass back in the day? I read that the Laurence ones have a metal frame but mine still has the big stock gasket

That would probably explain why the rear glass is tinted too then