superjay5ive

I plugged the vaccum line to the booster. Idle stayed consistent, so at this point i assume the booster is bad. I went ahead and pulled the master and put it on the vise to bench bleed again. It was full of air! So now I'm thinking maybe i got a bad master also? I bench bleed it good before I installed it the first time, zero air. So why is there air in it now. I would not think bleeding the brakes would get air back into the master? While bleeding the brakes the master never got low on fluid and I have zero leaks as far as I can see in the system......

That is a easy good test. Gearing up to head into the garage, I'll test that first. Debating on going out and grabbing a mityvac to help with bleeding as I won't have a helper today. I'll be annoyed if I got a bad new part, I know it happens a lot, but somehow I have been able to dodge that bullet.

Happy 4th! My day was going good, new waterpump and steering gear installed with no issues. Turned to the WJ Master/booster upgrade and ran into some issues. I bought new 2004 WJ Master and Booster from Napa, both premium parts from them. Bench bleed the master and made the mods to the booster. Teenage son helped me bleed the system. I am aware of the additional step for the load valve. Got good fluid out of all corners. THE ISSUE. Pedal goes to the floor, which is concerning. I assume I still have air in the lines. BUT even more concerning is with the vehicle running as soon as I press on the brakes my idle jumps up, which I assume is a leak in the booster. No pedal pressure with truck on or off. Taking the rest of the day off, I'll dig into it more tomorrow but was hoping you guys could point me in the direction i need to look into. Did I get a bad new booster? or maybe a bad new master? Before this upgrade I changed out all the front brake parts and I did have working brakes. Was hoping the WJ Mod would give me a little better braking. Thanks in advanced!

Thanks guys, that what I did and it worked good!

Hey Guys, I've been slowing bring my MJ back to life. I pulled out my EGR as I wasn't sure if it was actually functioning. The "plunger" in the EGR doesn't move freely, it moves, just not very well. So I am currently letting it sit in some carb cleaner. my question is. If i can't get the plunger to move freely, can I just insure its in the closed position and put it back on and remove the vacuum lines so it stays closed? Or do I make a block off plate? Is there any reason I should remove the tube from the intake and exhaust in doing this? I went to two different parts store and neither could get a new EGR....

D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) THIS IS READING 12v all times D1_6: At KEY ON only (B+ (Hot for 2-3 seconds)) only getting like .02v with key on. D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON and Hot during CRANK). same, only getting like .02v On, slight spikes to like .04 while cranking. This was all done using a multimeter with the aftermarket RED wire removed

awesome! Thanks, Ill test and report back!

Just went out and double checked. Red wire is only hot when key is on, shows 12v. Key off its 0v.

I'm pretty sure it was only hot with key on. Ill double check here shortly and report back.

Hey guys! First, thanks for such a good source of info! Bought an 1989 4.0 aw4 comanche for a father son project, we have been working thru all of cruisers tips as when we got it, it didn't run the greatest. We have it running pretty good now, BUT we were just about to finish up converting it to an open cooling system and went to start it and we got a no start. While cleaning up the wiring from the PO, was an old amp and some other misc items, I clipped a red wire coming from the cab thinking it wasn't needed. Well it was! This red wire from cab has 12volts when key is on. Its was tied into the larger yellow wire that runs to the Ignition control module. I hooked it back up and it starts. How it was hooked up it did not look factory at all. I assume the original ignition wire was replaced? Digging around a little more I found a cut red wire tucked in some wire loom. I guess my question is it currently works like this, but why would the PO do this? I assume the old wire got damaged and this was the easiest route to get power back to it. Is there any concern leaving it like this? Ill post some pics, I just quickly reattached it to make sure it worked, Ill make a proper wire connection if that is the route to go Thanks Pictures on passenger side.