tsa256

I broke two sockets and bent a bolt trying to do the power steering press-out the method shown above. After much frustration I placed a tireless steel rim onto the hub without brake rotors and wedged a two by four between the rim and chassis then turned the wheel in order to press it out. Thanks for the help

Is this the picture you were talking about; posthttp://www.comancheclub.com/forums/ ... g+assembly. I will give it another shot tomorrow, friend is bring over a torch just in case.

Yes the bearing assembly will not come off, my fault on the bad nomenclature/explanation. When you say you hit it with a hammer I take it your hitting the head of the bolt, away from the center of the car as if it was a nail to push the bearing assembly off? Thanks for the reply.

Hello everyone, My front left axle U-Joint has way to much play and can be heard when turning. Today I took the tire off, calipers, rotor, axle nut, and all the hardware to pull the axle out along with the u joint and splinned part. (Not so good on terminology but I think you get the point). Unfortunately, after removing all the hardware the axle would not come out. I tried PB blaster, rubber mallet, and prying it off with two screw drivers but the axle would not budge. So I came here for advise. Do I need to remove a clip in the differential to remove the axle? I have search around and could not find one straight answer. Any special techniques for removing the axle? I do not have a gear puller readily available. I have heard of issues when the cars weight is still on part of the shaft/bearing, do both front tires have to be off the ground, or can I jack up just one side? I know in order to pull the U joint and axle through the hole the tires have to be more or less straight, any tips on getting this right or does it really not matter that much because you can disconnect the steering link and position it yourself? I have double checked my work with: http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/dana30wheelbearing.htm and http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-2.htm but the axle simply will not come out Thanks in advance.

Also one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N7XnMM4zPw&t=7m0s

Thanks that clears things up. I don't think it really matters whether I put 2175.255 ft-lbs or 2180.5605ft-lbs of torque to the ground in first. Anyways can anyone clarify if that is a standard leaf pack in the picture above. Thanks.

Believe it or not I was thinking about doing Herculiner for my entire 86 Comanche. How much did all the paint/bushes/accessories cost for the Herculiner? I think it looks sweet and it is very practical. Durable and whatnot.

Sweet thanks. Looks like I've got a similar build '86 with 2.8, 5sp and 4:11. For some reason earlier I though the 4.11 were only with the stronger drive trains 4L Dana 44/AMC 20. While were at it; These are standard springs correct? Thanks.

Hello everybody I have a quick question. I recently got a free 1986 Jeep Comanche X ( not a metric ton) with a 2.8 V6 and I've been looking at the specifications and could not find a rear axle ratio. There was no tag or any other numbers to give me a clue. Anyways I did the axle test. Spin the axle to see how many revolutions for one tire and it came to just a little more than 4. So my question is (assuming I have 4.11 gears) in 1986 was a 4.11 rear axle ratio stock or was this re geared. Thanks ahead of time

Hey everybody. Planning on doing an oil change on my 1986 2.8 Comanche X as soon as my driveway dries up, currently it's flooded. Anyways, this is my first time doing an oil change on my Jeep Comanche and I have a few quick questions. Since my driveway is flooded it would be impractical for me to go out and caliper all of these measurements. Previous caliper measurements show the oil drain plug head to be 15mm: Would this mean the thread would be 12mm? When buying crush washers they advertise them with only one dimension. Is that dimension the inside or outside diameter? If inside should i get the 12mm crush washer ( assuming 12mm was the correct thread size.) Also I'm looking into a quick drain valve and debating buying this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FF ... 3GGTLW41KH assuming all the dimensions are correct, any comments. Thanks,

Thanks for the insight. I did a little more research and came across this article http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/60degreeV6/ . It says that the 2.8 ECM will handle the TBI just fine. Does anybody know if this is true? If not are there any good TBI kits that come with all the other hardware needed to use a TBI in place of a carb. Thanks again.

Hello everyone, looking to put a TBI into my 1986 2.8 Comanche. I've looked around and heard that the Holley 502-4 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-502-4/ is a direct bolt on and works very well. My question is what else do I need to complete the swap? Do I need a new ECM, some people say I do and some say I don't could someone please provide insight on the parts I need as well as any tips you could give me for the swap. Thanks

Hello everyone, My Comanche recently begun having electrical problems. After a quick fuse terminal check I confirmed that there is at least one short circuit. I been tearing apart my dash and electrical component and have found a few places for probable shorts which I have now fixed. Going back to the interior fuse block I checked the circuits that previously indicated a short; All was well except for one terminal. I did some more testing and found that the white wire with black stripes going into the fuse block provides a path to the battery, a ground. So my question is is the white/black wire going into the back of the fuse block a ground wire or do I still have one more short on my hands?

That's a sham. Thanks for the help though.

Dana 35 Right? Oh please god let me be wrong. Thanks,

Thanks a lot. Now all I need is some free time.

Hello everyone. I recently became a proud owner of a 1986 Comanche Big Ton, with a 2.8.... And recently began the task restoring the great truck. I quickly knocked out some of the small stuff and now I'm on to restoring the interior. A quick look around showed that it had mild rust under the carpet which should be no problem. The serious rust problem is the Seat Mounts. The bolt and nut that fastens the seat to the floor are rusted pretty bad. My question is how should I go about repairing this? I'm afraid that if I unbolt it from the floor it may damage the bolt and screws beyond repair and I'm not even sure if the bolt extruding from the floor is replaceable. Repairs must be done in 2 days or less so completely striping the interior is not an option. Until I have more time to completely gut the truck I'm looking for a solution that will be fast yet still rid the Jeep of the infamous rust. Thank ahead.

Hello everyone, I have recently inherited a 1986 Jeep Comanche for my 16th birthday, but it has a few problems. The main problem is the breaking system. The calipers, break pads, shoe, and wheel cylinders, all need to be replaced. I have a marginal amount of experience repairing vehicles, but this is the first time I have done much work with breaks. So all in all, I came to ask the experienced. Is there any particular obstacles should I look out for? Should I replace all 4 breaks or will just 2 work. What kind of break pads and calipers would you recommend, are their any tips and tricks I should know, and how long is it going to take. (My gut thought says first time about 6 hours) Any other advice is greatly appreciate. I'm trying to do the world a favor, get another Comanche on the road. Thanks everyone.

Hello Everyone, I'm currently looking at purchasing a used pickup truck. One of my options is a 1986 Jeep Comanche. In very good condition, with only one previous owner. So my query is would a 1986 Jeep Comanche be able to handle snow plowing in New England. Specifically Connecticut. I do not know all the specifications of the jeep but it does have the General Motors LR2 2.8 L V6 engine. Normally I would assume that this truck could handle a mounted snow plow and hold up well in high torque situations. But further research revealed that the California Sierra Nevada rangers purchased these trucks for extensive plowing and hauling in North Eastern California up by Tahoe. Soon after they had problems with dropping transmissions due to the high torque situations of plowing and hauling they used the jeep for. The owner of the car said he did "drop the transmission" once trying to get out from being snowed. (From what he said they're was about a foot of heavy snow, like what Lake Tahoe gets.) He also said that it has been repairs and ran great ever since, but he has been reluctant to use the 2 wheel low because of the stress it puts on the engine. So my questions is, would a 1986 Jeep Comanche be able to withstand moderate snow plowing in the North East. Also, if anyone has any prior experience with similar situations and have advice or any other useful informations such as mod kits that would help reduce the strain that would be great. Thanks, I greatly appreciate any help