BentGear

My glove box is broke. And before I start trying to persuade it open i want make sure the lock is the unlocked position. Can anyone let me know if this is locked or unlocked?

I thought I would update on the issue and the fix. I did test the starter at Auto Zone and it was fine. Using a multimeter I realized there was some loss in the main ground wire. It looked fine, but I disassembled the main ground and cleaned it up and it started right up.

Here's an update. I reinstalled the starter. I keyed the vehicle on. I crawled under the vehicle with a wire and tried to bridge the power from the big cable to the signal wire, like when I tested it. It clicked once but did not start. However, one other wierd thing happened, the voltage dropped completely in the entire vehicle. I disconnected and then reconnect the battery and it came back. The battery read full charge the entire time, but the ACC power only read 6-7 volts. After disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and keying back on, the ACC read 12.75 again. This happened everytime I tried it.

I did check that the primary cable is delivering full voltage to the starter. I also tried jumping the truck with another vehicle, no go. The battery tender is a battery charger by CTEK, so it does more than just tending. The battery reads 12.75 V by my voltage reader. The battery is 3 years old, just out of warrenty, but I really don't think its the battery. I used the battery to bench test the starter and it worked fine. Its like the start signal is not going to the starter. Could the starter pack have fried something in the wiring?

My truck sat idle for about 3 weeks while we were out of town. When we came back the vehicle would not start. My son used a jumper pack to start it and it ran, but did not run it long enough to charge the battery. A couple of days later tried to start again and it was dead. Tried the jumper pack again and it started for a second then died. Now the starter does not turn at all. I put the battery on a tender then let it sit for a few days. I took it to Autozone and they tested it and it tested good. I pulled the starter off the truck and bench tested it and it worked fine. So it seems the signal is not getting to the starter motor. When I turn the key on, I hear a clicking which makes me think the relay is working, but could it be a different relay? I am a novice at car repair but not afraid to watch a video and try stuff, I want to learn more but its kinda hard when you don't have someone to teach you. Right now I am struggling to know what to check next. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Got it fixed. I wanted to update everyone on what I did in case anyone else has a similar issue. I ordered the o-ring repair kit PN 83502745. I wanted to try that first. It worked well but didn’t come with any instructions. So here’s what I did. Inside the hose there are 2 o-rings with a plastic spacer in between them. I had to use a pick to get all 3 out. I also had to remove the plastic clip which was on the fuel rail. It is supposed to be in the hose, but when removing the hose, it wants to stay on the rail. With everything removed, I pushed the repair kit as it came directly into the hose as far as I could. Holding on to the clip I pulled the plastic applicator out. Then just push onto the manifold until the clip clicks. The o-rings are super small if you lose one, note that they are 7mm x 2 mm if you need to replace. Thanks for all the help.

It doesn't look like that one is available anywhere. Is there a good aftermarket solution. I see lots of fuel line for sale but I am not sure what kind of connection is compatible.

I would feel better with a new hose any idea on what or where to get one?

I noticed a fuel line leak at the fuel rail. See photos. I'm 95% sure it's leaking at the joint of the metal connector of the hose circled in photo. Also not sure what hose to buy to try that first. Any help would be appreciated.

I am looking to replace/upgrade my alternator. First of all, I have a 1988 4.0L manual. I am looking at this alternator: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47902?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-jeep&gclid=CjwKCAjw-JG5BhBZEiwAt7JR6-F1vDMTdEwrcKXW12FEjAIEzzWbagi1kSXPSxWED1mDrm-TfNW_sxoCQewQAvD_BwE Of course my alternator is on the passenger side of the vehicle and this one says it is for mounting on the driver side, but it looks similar to the ones on RockAuto and I am not sure it would matter. Any one have any experience with this one? Or do you have a better one I should look at?

Got it fixed. The hose coming out the firewall was crimped.

I final got the AC working. It is blowing good and cold, however now there is a lot condensation puddling in the passenger floor board. Is there a drain hose or something I should be looking for that is missing? I am not 100% sure where is coming from but I think it's just condensation from a hot and humid Georgia summer. Glad to have AC though!

That definitely was the issue with the air staying on defrost. Now to get it to blow cold. Any good troubleshooting guides. I have seen videos where people recharge with dust off. But is there something else I should try before I open up the system?

Could this be what you are talking about? It was bolted to the engine bay wall. It did have a big Crack where the two plastic pieces came together. I used some JB weld plastic bonder to seal it up. When it dries I'll see if that works

The AC has not worked since I bought it 4 years ago. Finally getting around to looking into it. The system only blows in defrost which I understand is probably a vacuum leak. So I'm starting there. I see this blue vacuum hose is not connected to anything is that normal? Also what is this canister that has hoses attached to it? Also it does not have anything attached to the outlet labeled purge, is that normal? It's hard to find any info on these systems, I can usually figure things out if I know at least what should be connected where. Anyone know of good resources for 1988 4.0 A/C systems?

I am super happy with the look. Very thankful to Oracle for supporting the Comanche. I know not everyone is a fan but look at it this way, some more original taillights may be hitting the market now

I had a failure of my drum brakes and they will need a full rebuild. However, I cannot find anywhere that sells a parking brake strut for the MJ or XJ. I found this one that looks right: https://www.quadratec.com/products/56208_0002.htm But does not say it is compatible. Does anyone know where I can find one? My original is a little chewed up and while it might work, I would prefer a new one. See photo of mine.

***UPDATE*** So I had my driveshaft extended, it cost a little more ($300) because they also replaced the u-joints. But I wanted to mention the truck runs unbelievably better, even the shifting is smoother. The engine used to bog down a little under 2k rpm. Now it runs strong, it's like a new vehicle, all from a driveshaft. Money well spent.

My truck is lifted and the rear driveshaft is too short. There are two options I am considering right now, although I am open to other ideas. I would like to hear what you all think I should do. Option 1: ~$150 Have the existing drive shaft lengthened by my local driveshaft shop Option 2: ~&750 Order a Slip Yoke Eliminator and custom driveshaft from Oliver driveshafts I have been thinking one day I might install a Dana 44 in the rear which might then need a different length driveshaft, in which case maybe I am better off just to lengthen the current one. Thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback. I went with the gray rtv. It is setting up now. If it leaks I'll switch to a gasket. The hardest part of this task was the oil seal, getting that seal in was ridiculously hard.

I am replacing the transfer case housing extention and it appears rtv gasket material may have been between them from the outside but the surfaces look really clean. Do I need to put rtv between them or cut a gasket or something else?

I have looked through the Haynes manual and rock auto and other internet searches to determine what this pulley wheel is called. Mine has a groove in it, that is wearing a groove in the belt. I think the hose clamp was rubbing it sometime in the past. Anyway, can anyone tell me what is called and know where I can find a new one?

I think I found the culprit, but I don't know what it is. See the photo below. This looks like an emissions connection, it was disconnected. I put it back in and the engine runs much better now. I can still detect a little leak coming from the rubber grommet probably because it is so old. I pushed the connection in as far as it would go, but I didnt want to push too hard and break the old rubber grommet. Can anyone tell me what this is so I can order a new one? Should their be another hose connected to the top hole? The top hole does not seem to have air flow, in or out of it.

Update: I put a FelPro gasket on, no oil leak now. I did the Cruiser 54 mod. I had to clean a lot of carbon out of the valve cover. Now there is a loud vacuum leak, at least that is what it sounds like and I cannot pin point it. It is not the valve cover connections. Sounds like its at the exhaust manifold. I see a little smoke coming from that area when I startup, but it goes away after 30 sec of idling. The truck idles rougher now, and there is more white smoke in the exhaust than previously. Do you think this is a vacuum leak or an exhaust issue? Could the sound just be the vacuum lines pulling though the modified tubes in the valve cover? Not sure where to go look next.

Thanks all, I'll give that a try.