james-mc

So I was just messing with it. No white smoke from tailpipe. Coolant is greenish and rust colored and will need flushed again. It didnt seem like any oil is mixing with it. But the same issue I'm seeing today is: when the engine heats up it will dump coolant into the overflow to the point it boils over. I left it cracked so it wouldnt crank my tank or blow a hose. As soon as i kill the engine it will suck the overflow tank dang near dry. I start it again, it heats up to about 210ish and the overflow fills to the point of boiling over once again. Has anyone had this issue? I'm trying to burp it by running it without overflow cap and filling the reservoir as it sucks down. It only has one gallon of coolant I put in. Plus whatever didn't completely drain out of the engine when i flushed it. I'm at a loss.

I'm going to try burping it again. I'm hoping its not anything head gasket related. It wouldnt hurt to change tstat i guess since its only 6 bucks for the tstat and gasket

I thought that too lol. I was looking at new temp sensors while i was on napas site ordering a thermostat.

Well after many of the various repairs on this ol jeep I've run into an overheating issue. When I first got the comanche it did have an overheating issue. Fairly new water pump and replacing the radiator seemed to fix it..or so I thought. So today I thought I could finally drive it. I made it about a half mile before I seen the temp gauge red lining. So I turned around and parked it at my dads house. When I started it up I notice some faint white smoke from the tail pipe (I know not something anyone wants to see right) but its only about 40° here today so could be steam. I didnt notice it earlier this week when it was warm but I wasn't looking. Last week after changing the transmission I flushed the system with water to get the copper flakes out. The previous owner put in stop leak hoping to fix a radiator leak on the old radiatir. Coolant turned a dark green after I let the engine idle enough to flow through the system to get the rest of the copper flakes out. When the engine gets warmed up it will suck almost all of the coolant out of the reservoir. Then when I shut off the engine, it will dump the coolant back into the reservoir to the point that it is completely filled. Once the engine cools a little bit the level will go back to a normal. After I noticed the overheating tonight and was back at my dads I barely loosened the overflow cap while the engine was idling. As soon as barely got that cap turned it started dumping coolant back into the reservoir. I tightened it back down and it stopped dumping coolant. We checked the oil and its clean (just changed the oil 3 days ago). Didn't notice any coolant in the oil. I shut it off, locked her up and got a ride home. Now I'm wondering where I should start looking for the problem. Thermostat is usually the first thing I check. Tomorrow I'm going to swing back by my dads on my way to town to poke around. Any suggestions on where to start?

Installer tool worked perfectly. Now to diagnose this damn overheating issue.

Awesome thanks. Ill check it out and make sure threads arent damaged before i rent it.

Bearing looked ok from what I've seen. Wasn't leaking before i pulled the old HB off.

Sounds like a plan. I hope the evertough oreillys has for rent does the job

I'm trying to install the new harmonic balancer since the old one was flinging rubber and scratching my timing cover. Its a 1989 Jeep Comanche with the 4.0 Inline 6. I managed to get the old one out with my handy dandy harbor freight wheel puller set. It had enough clearance that i didn't need to remove anything major like the radiator. Now I'm trying to install the new one. But it doesn't go onto the crankshaft far enough to thread the bolt like I've seen in some videos. I am reusing the old key. Its stuck on the shaft pretty good. I used a set of calipers to make sure the hole diameter is the same. Any tips for getting the harmonic balancer installed? Also has anyone used the loaner installer from o'reilly's? Its pretty cheap to rent so I might be better off doing that. This is the Harmonic Balancer I bought: https://www.napaonline.com/p/NDP6005229?vehicleAddPDP=true

Now I just have to change valve cover gasket, harmonic balancer, oil pressure switch (hopefully its not the guage lol), blower motor, oil and filter change, and then minor cosmetic stuff. Hopefully another $200 or so she will be road ready lol

Could be. But most the roads around here are gravel. So hard telling.

Got her put in on sunday. It moves lol. Shifter even seems more responsive than the sloppy ba10 i pulled out. Thanks again man. Now I just gotta wait for my new harmonic balancer to come in. The rubber is coming out and I'm pretty sure the pulley is scratching the timing cover.

Well turns put old transmission has a problem in the gearbox. I'm not sure what. The vent hose was completely gone and there were bits of gravel (and an oil covered penny) by the shifter housing. Could be possible a rock or something could have worked its way into the gear box. I will check into that later. On the "new" ba/10 I went through all the gears and they seem fine. I'm going to finish the install tomorrow morning. I have a new clutch kit to put on while I'm down there.

Any advise for the CAT mount in the cross member? Looks like it could slide out. Also I leave the straps on the new slave cylinder when installing right?

Just my luck. Last owner swapped the torx for allen head. Off to harbor freight lol

I invite any and all thieves to come steal the transmission that's in it. Save me some work. 😂

Thats a good idea. Might do that as well.

I went to harbor freight. So hopefully they survive this job haha. If not my dad has a set of good ones i can pickup.

I seen that. I went and bought a set of torx (and inverse torx) sockets for it. I also sprayed some penetrating lubricant on the bolts again last night. I'm hoping that they arent too much of a pain. The guy i got the truck from replaced clutch roughly 3 years ago. I also went and bought a transmission jack just to be safe. Tomorrow I'm going to get this thing dropped and in the evening a friend of mine is gonna come help get the new one in.

Ok great. Theyre 2WD so id expect them to be a little lighter. Thanks I'm glad I don't have to go rent a truck lol.

Also how much does the ba10 and ax15 weigh individually? I only ask because I will have to haul them in my hatchback unfortunately. Ive read about 100lbs a piece but idk how reliable that is.

Will do thanks for the advise.

Ill have to look into that. CPS is only thing I have left to unhook. Then I'm going to break the bolts loose so theyre ready to go tomorrow for the swap.

I found a guy that is going to sell me a ba10 and an ax15. I'm going to just swap in the BA10 for now while I gather the parts for an AX15 swap. Once the trans is off I'm going to inspect the old one to see what might have went wrong. Is there any good write ups for a ba10 removal. My haynes manual doesnt go into alot of detail. Also do I need to remove my CPS before dropping the transmission? Or could I just unhook the connector and remove it with the tranny out?

Shift rails seemed to be aligned. Although i couldnt see in there too well. I ran a magnet around through the fill plug, didnt pick up anything major. I'm going to try through the drain plug tomorrow. The fill plug did have a fair amount of metal shavings on it as expected. I have everything soaking in penetrating oil and all my tools ready. Ive disconnected everything from the tranny and went and bought a transmission jack just to be safe. Hopefully tomorrow i can drop this mf and see whats wrong. Also after reinstalling the shifter it seemed to be more responsive so thats good. Still dies with the clutch out though. 😂