Bald Eagle

I have the 1992 manual, and it shows the same diagram as you have shown. If I am correct and the short is within the wire harness, it will be much easier and probably safer to install an aftermarket horn kit.

Well, I removed the bottom panel, and the Headlamp Delay Module does not exist in the location as shown in the photos. I could not see anything that resembled the module.

Thanks for all the tips. As for the Headlight delay module is that attached to the headlight switch (I am not sure where it is)? There are two relays that are mounted with two screws under the bottom panel. I have a PowerProbe ECT3000 tester and I pulled the relay off and tested each circuit. The only one that did not record a short was the one going to the steering column. There is only one horn on the driver's side. With the wire attached to that horn, the wire on the passenger side for the missing horn shows a short. When I remove the wire from the driver's side horn, there is no short. Tried a different horn and no difference. The tester has the probe that lets you trace or follow the short. The only trace I could find is in the wire harness where all the wires come through the fire wall and into the main wire loom. I suspect it may be where the two horn wires are connected, but as suggested, I need to check out the Headlight delay module once I know where it is and how to get at it.

Well, its 2026 and I solved the cooling problem with the AW-4 transmission. Last December I converted to the AX-15 transmission with the NP231 transfer case. The truck now has its power back and the excessive heat from the AW-4 is now gone. It's like driving a whole different truck.

On my 1992 Jeep Comanche the Hd Lp Dly fuse (horn) keeps blowing the fuse. I disconnected the horn wire and that didn't work. I removed the relay and that didn't work. The fuse still blows. As you put the fuse in, the top connector sparks. Any suggestions?

Has anyone installed the Thor or similar cold air intake? If yes, what has been your experience with this type of system? Does the intake box need to be sealed? What about noise and power changes?

I have installed a PML deep transmission pan for the AW4. It takes an extra quart of fluid and comes with a sensor port. I moved the existing temp sensor from the outbound line to the pan. Driving the same test road in my previous posts, the temperature never went above 170 degrees. The tow test is next. Also, removing the trans cooler from in front of the radiator/condenser has resulted in the engine temp staying at 210 or less. My next project is to install the Thor cowl intake. This will get the air filter in cooler air (out of the engine bay) and free up some room for a possible second battery and either an Axbeam or Voswitch box.

To answer everyone's comments, I did test the temperature at the thermostat housing and at the gauge sensor at the rear of the block with a temp gun. The temp at the gauge sensor was within +/- 5 degrees. The temp. at the thermostat was about 10 degrees lower. I agree that the gauge can be off. With regard to the transmission temp. gauge, I am assuming that it is fairly accurate. It is reading the temp. as it comes out of the transmission. At this point, I am more concerned about the transmission since it has little tolerance outside of any normal driving. After towing my 1200 lb. teardrop camper around Colorado, the bottom line is the Comanche could use more power and a much better transmission.

Yesterday afternoon it was 100 degrees outside, so I took the truck for a 40-mile round-trip drive. The first 20 miles (down elevation) I drove without air and the engine temp. stayed at 210 or less and the trans. temp. around 150. The return 20 miles (up elevation I turned the air on and the engine temp. climbed to 217 and the trans temp 180. This afternoon, I did the tow test up the 3-mile, 800-foot elevation climb with my Teardrop trailer (1200 lbs.). As I neared the summit engine temp. was 224 and the trans. temp. was 220. Both the engine and trans. fans were on the entire time. The outside air temp. was 90 degrees. Elevation change was from 7200' to 8,000'. As I wrote in my initial post, all the cooling components are new. The transmission has a new filter and fluid, and the cooler is the Derale #13740 with two cooling fans rated at 650 cfm. It is mounted below the radiator. My conclusion is as follows. The AW4 transmission is the weak link. Normal everyday driving it does fine, and the temp never goes over 150 degrees. Once you add hills, slow trail driving or towing it does not like it. I have tried three trans. coolers: The stock cooler, a TrueCool and the Derale. The AW4 puts out a lot of heat and works the engine harder. My 1992 Jeep Cherokee has the AX15 manual transmission, and I have not experienced the same issues.

I installed the Derale 2-fan transmission cooler on Saturday below the radiator. Also, I did the RPM check and everything seems normal with the transmission. So, the next check will either be an offroad trip or towing my 1200 lb. Teardrop camper.

So, I was in Moab yesterday and drove the Sand Flats Road. Not difficult but in some areas slow driving and pulling some good grades. The outside temperature was 79 degrees in the morning, but after lunch it got up to almost 100 degrees. When pulling the grades, the engine temp. stayed around 217, but the transmission temp jumped to 225 degrees (I was not running the air conditioner). In my previous post, I stated that I wanted to remove the transmission cooler that is in front of the radiator/cooling condenser and install the Derale two-fan cooler away from the radiator. I have not done this yet, as I am waiting for a fitting. Novak conversions also recommends not having the trans cooler in front of the radiator and I agree as it further restricts air flow. So, once I make the switch I will test and post the results. I will test my transmission as suggested by Andy. Also, when the outside air temperature gets up to 90 to 100 degrees, it hard to keep anything cool.

Update on what I have done regarding my cooling issue. I installed a new clutch fan from Crown Automotive, which is a direct fit and highly superior to other clutch fans. This clutch is a little larger in diameter and depth and fits perfectly with no clearance problems. Secondly, I installed a later model XJ fan, also from Crown and it has ten blades and works great. So far, it is working better. My last change will be swapping out the transmission cooler that sits in front of the radiator & condenser and installing a Derale 2-fan trans. cooler below the radiator. This will provide better airflow through the radiator.

Tried to install the ZJ clutch fan. There was zero clearance between the clutch and radiator. Returned the clutch and got my money back.

If the Jeep ZJ has the 4.0L engine with a larger clutch fan, is it not just as loud in the ZJ as in the XJ or MJ? Is the ZJ fan blade the same diameter and bolt pattern as the XJ/MJ?

MotownXdad, Which Efan did you use? Thanks for your input.

All cooling components are new. I have a True Cool transmission cooler which by-passes the radiator. Also, I have hood vents. Test drove the truck this morning with the new thermostat. Temp stayed around 210+. Drove the high hill climb mentioned in my previous comments with an outside temp at 75 degrees and the engine temp went up to about 225 degrees. Once I reached the top, temp came back down to 210. When I got home, checked the temp with the engine running at the thermostat housing with a heat sensor and it was 195+ degrees (the electric fan was on), and the temp at the gauge sending unit at the rear of the engine was 220+ degrees. So, maybe the following theories contribute to the higher temps. First, I am operating at higher elevations 7200-9000 feet, which is +20% less oxygen and power. Secondly, the automatic transmission creates more heat than the standard transmission. And finally, the sensor at the rear of the engine does get hotter where there is less air flow and where all the heat comes up from below. These engines do run hot, and if I am adding weight or pulling a trailer, that engine has got to work harder. I have seen the Youtube videos and forums where every option is discussed and tried and praised and ridiculed. For example; Aluminum radiator, Ford Taurus Fan, Grand Cherokee fan, three fan arrangement, 180 vs. 195 degree thermostat, high flow vs. OEM water pump and thermostat housing and the list goes on. So, maybe we are expecting too much out of these engines. I am curious about the 4.0L stroker engine and how it copes with more power and heat.

I have read that the High Flow water pump is fine for normal RPM range, but not for running abnormal high RPM's. Frankly, I don't know if it makes a difference or not. When I compare my Cherokee with my Comanche, the Cherokee is all stock and does fine(standard transmission). The Comanche always seems needy and temperamental.

The reason I suspect overheating is when the gauge was at the red line, I could smell coolant. There are no leaks or signs of a blown head gasket.

I have tried both the OEM water pump and the High flow water pump with the same results. I also checked the temp with an infra-red thermometer and it was within 5 degrees. Fans are working fine and I have a remote switch to turn the electric fan on as desired. Also, I have a separate transmission cooler that by-passes the radiator. I did notice that at slow speeds the temp stays around 210, but going down the highway at 55 the temp with go up and down from 210-220. I suspected the thermostat was not working properly, so I installed a new one this morning. Also, maybe there is still air in the system. I will road test in the morning to see if the new thermostat fixed the problem. Thanks for everyone's input.

I have owned my 1992 Jeep Comanche for the past 24 years. It has the 4.0L with the AW-4 automatic transmission. 4.11 gears front and rear with 31-inch tires. Two years ago, I replaced the idiot light panel with a panel with gauges. All through my history of driving this truck and towing a 1,000 lb. teardrop camper the lights never came on or did the vehicle overheat. This past year I installed a new CSF heavy duty radiator and cap, new OEM clutch fan and electric fan, high flow water pump and thermostat housing, 195 thermostat and temperature sensors. Plus flushed the system. And did I mentioned I replaced the hoses and tried both a standard water pump and the high flow pump, and checked the temp at the sensor with a heat sensor and it matched the gauge pretty close. The temp gauge will normally read 210 to 212. I live at 7,200 feet and when climbing up mountain roads with just me in the vehicle and not towing anything, the temp will hit the red line. I tested this on a local road that is about two miles long with an elevation change of about 800 feet. I don't believe this should be normal, and I can understand if I was towing my trailer. I also own a 1992 Jeep Cherokee that I have owned for the past 29 years, it has the 5-speed standard, and it has no problems and normally runs about 200 degrees with all stock components. Any thoughts on the overheating Comanche? Thanks!