PhilisDiller

oh sorry, I should have been more specific. You can go down one more row but it’s blank. i believe it’s a red wire that’s had a little connector installed. There’s no fuel pump relay there. I’ve attached a picture of what I believe is the connection. thanks for hunting that down! Yeah, it doesn’t look like there are any renix sensors anymore. I believe mines already been tapped to 3/8”. What size thread does the HO IAT use?

There’s nothing below that. It’s the only one

I’ve attached a photo of the REM code. I cleaned the IAT sensor with electric contact cleaner. It looked spotless in the first place and made no difference. It looks like the PO changed out the sensor style at some point. Maybe this sensor doesn’t have the same temperature band output as the OEM one. See attached picture. I also wanted to make sure my butterfly valve was adjusted properly and noticed that the adjustment bolt was snapped! Looks like I’m going to have to find a way to get that out and hopefully find one at a junkyard.

Alright, so I verified the MAP harness and get the following C218_A - 0.2 Ohm C218_C 5.08V looks like my c101 elimination dropped the resistance down from 0.8 Ohms 👍 I just tested the EGR and it completely dies when I depress the valve. I haven’t checked the open functionality, but because I’m having this issue at idle, I doubt that’s the issue. also, I adjusted my TPS to 16 by loosening the screws and adjusting the sensor. No difference in idle conditions. I will say my TPS only goes up to 87 according to the REM readout. I’ve run propane by every vacuum connection and near the intake/EGR. No fluctuations in idle. i reverified the fuel injectors by double checking unplugging the connection on each one of them while idling. Every one has the exact same level of rough idle response. the REM is throwing a code for fuel pump relay, but the previous owner already bypassed the relay. It’s normal to throw that code after removal right? When I checked the throttle body valve, everything seemed to be working fine and everything seated nicely. Air filter looked to be clean enough too and there’s no leaves blocking flow through the intake within the grill. coolant temp runs a bit low. New thermostat didn’t chant anything, but rich burn should be less heat. Intake air temp is really low. I should give this guy a replacing. Adding that to my list. okay so where I’m at, it seems like fuel should be good, air should be good. beginning to think this could be weak spark too. I have new plugs and new lightning wires. I have a new cap and rotor, but haven’t installed that yet and reindex it. I’ll give that a go and cross my fingers. It would be nice to try another ECU to see if it changes anything. I haven’t had any luck with renix XJ or MJ at my local junkyards in Durham NC. Anyone have one they’d be willing to loan me 😬? losing my mind with this thing.

Key on Baro reading 29.6 Right on startup it runs really rough for a couple minutes - MAP ~19 and VAC~11 after warming up MAP ~15.5 and VAC ~14.5 It does look like the VAC creeps from 14.5 up to 16.5 or so when in CL before fail when i hold the throttle to keep the RPM at ~1k RPM the vacuum doesn't move much VAC ~14.8 I'm not really seeing any movement in my O2 sensor now between CL and OL. sitting around 0.45v, but it never got really warmed up to full operating temperature. I’ve attached another video showing what I read today. I’m seeing my IAC at <105 early on warmup and seeing it around <53 after it’s warmed up a bit. I’m not sure if that helps with anything.

NGK ZFR5N all fresh and fresh wires too My RPMs also creep up from ~800 to 1100 when in CL. I figured the vacuum change was due to the rpm change, but I will try to verify what vac I read while intentionally holding 1100 RPM. The idle seems to sound better and less lumpy when it’s creeping up in CL too. Also, I forgot to mention that the thermostat I took out was a 195 thermostat. Honestly, the coolant temp is about the same with the new thermostat. Any reason why she’d be running so cool now that we know it’s not the thermostat?

@cruiser54 hey so I changed my thermostat today and finished eliminating my c101 today - I improved on the $#!&amp;ty ground crimps by soldering all 6 ground wires together. I also eliminated the fuel injector power crimp and soldered that together. I reverified the MAP tubing - Airtight. and put a little sealant where it goes into the tb. overall, she feels like she has more power but it’s still running rich. here’s the weird thing. Idling in open loop, the o2 sensor reads about 1.1v. When it goes into closed loop and starts restricting how much fuel is being sent, the o2 reading actually goes down to 0.6v. I know it should be going up if it has less fuel... I’ve attached a video and it happens at 2:20 mark. I also know it reads around 5v when fuel is cut which indicates the o2 sensor is working..., so there’s something weird going on here Also, after driving and going into idle I see the O2 sensor reading is normally around 0.6v but creeps up to 1.2v. I meant to pick up a test light to check d2-9 but haven’t yet. I know the heater element is working at some level because I can see my o2 readings change on startup quite quickly. Starts off at 5v and goes down to 1v or so over the course of 20-30 seconds while it’s heating up can anyone make sense of that? Is something bad with my ECU maybe? I’m really hitting a wall here...

@cruiser54 I’ve noticed that my IAT does read about 20f lower than ambient temperature. Only when it’s warmed up does it read just a bit higher than ambient. I know IAT is the lesser component for open loop fuel regulation, but maybe this might be causing it to run a bit rich. I can’t see it being this rich tho. I wasn’t able to pick up my thermostat until tonight so I’ll swap it tomorrow to a 195 and hope that helps. I don’t think the EGR it’s causing a vacuum leak but I’ll do your tests for it. I’m getting 14.5 vac which seems to be within range. The map tube looks new but I’ll verify it flows air when I’m in there. Rubber vacuum connectors look to be good too. It seems like there’s a good seal at the MAP to TB connection, but would you recommend putting a little bit of sealant on that connection to confirm it’s airtight?

@cruiser54 I couldn’t wiggle the c101 and that harness are when testing the o2, due to my position but I was able to wiggle it with the tps and map and didn’t have any changes. I’m new to distributors, but would a poorly indexed dizzy cause any of the rich symptoms I have? or what about bad egr? I’ve never seen my REM say EGR on. It’s always off. I don’t know much about EGRs yet. I live in NC and they do inspections. I’m guessing EGR delete is off the table.

1 - I refreshed my dip stick connection when I first got it. It looks like the previous owner ran the battery ground to the dipstick connection too. The firewall ground is only grounded to a bolt on the intake manifold with a 12ga cable. Is this also supposed to be grounded to the head or is this sufficient? Refreshed the tail light ground as well. Anything else I’m missing there? 2 - I’ve decided to tackle eliminating the c101 today. Wish me luck, doesn’t look too bad. I’ve cleaned it out once already, but love peace of mind. 3 - I’ve cleaned out most accessible connectors and relays , but I’ll do a more thorough inspection while doing the c101 today 4 - is this necessary right now? I’m not having any starting issues. I was aiming to tackle ones that I thought would be causing my issues. 5 - I checked my ground resistance against my MAP, TPS and O2 sensor. All them were 0.7 to 0.9 ohms. Any more I should be checking?

I don’t have a test light yet, but my multimeter is showing 54mA on D2 -9 and I’m getting like 13.4V.

According to nick in times guide with the REM it says TPS should be between 14-18. I have 13.4v for the heater circuit I’ve attached a video of me going through some of the readings while it’s idling. .

I know it recognizes too much fuel when it goes into closed loop. What I meant was that I think when it’s In open loop, it is sending more fuel than it should. I really thought my fuel pressure regulator would fix it. LTFT has been 128 but just changed to 126 the other day. TPS - 14 MAT - 64 f

I’ll swap it to a 195 maybe today if I have the time. Would it really be dumping that much excess fuel at 180 vs 195? I know my O2 sensor starts off reading 0.5v idling when I first fire it up and it creeps up to 1.2v once at operating temp.

It started running rough every time I pulled an injector. These are 0280155700 injectors Installed by previous owner.

Couldn’t tell you, as this truck is still new to me. I’m guessing I’ll have to take off the thermostat housing in order to see?

Yup. After idling for 10 min. My temp gauge on the dashboard is always quite low too.

Alright, have done some work and definitely cleared up some issues but I’m still running super rich. First I thought my O2 sensor was bad, so I replaced that with an NGK one. cracked manifold was replaced with a new one - new gaskets fuel pressure regulator was bust as my fuel pressure was reading 40 with vacuum and 47 without vacuum. Replaced my FPR and pressure is good 31/39 but still running rich. here’s my synopsis - running rich in open loop still. I know my O2 reads 0-5v no problem because when I decelerate at higher RPMs and the fuel is cut off, my O2 sensor reads right at 5. when idling though, I’m reading around 0.5v to 1.2v on the O2 (super rich) all 6 of my spark plugs seem to have black soot on it so they were all running rich. I was thinking i maybe had an injector stuck open, but the identical spark plugs and high fuel pressure I figured they were all getting too much fuel via the high fuel pressure. The weird thing is that with the correct fuel pressure I can’t notice the difference in idle much. Although I’m glad to have replaced some faulty parts, I’m anxious to get her running good again. the fact it’s struggling in open loop makes me think there’s something funky going on. the weird thing is that when it goes into closed loop and fuel is cut back to compensate for the rich ex, the O2 sensor reading actually goes from 1.2v down to 0.5v. I’d think that with less fuel, the O2 reading would be going up! I'm going to go through and verify all my ground connections this weekend, but was hoping someone can help me. Here are my REM stats idling O2 - 1.1V OL/ 0.5v CL INJECTOR PULS WIDTH - 8.1mS OL/ 4.5mS CL GALLONS PER HOUR - 1.1 OL / 0.8CL MAP - 15.9 OL / 12.0 CL VAC - 14.5 OL / didn’t grab closed loop Water temp - 187 f ST - 128 OL / drops to 0 in CL. I know it’s getting too much fuel, and i don’t think the ECU knows it’s sending too much fuel. appreciate the help y’all and merry Christmas!

Hey all, I'm looking into replacing my rusted out floor pans. I've seen the LH and RH side floor pans that are weld or bolt in, but I haven't seen anyone replacing the entire floor pan with a single piece as shown by #1 in the diagram below. The website says this is Mopar overstock, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with how this would work, or why it wouldn't work? It seems cheap enough and supposedly is OEM. Am I missing something here? Thanks!

Good to know, maybe down the road I'll go with some Brown dog motor mounts if it's ever needed. I loved getting more solid motor mounts in my Miata, but I had that thing gutted and track ready so I didn't concern myself with comfort. I've noticed that every company doing the OE style mounts has their own slight variation on the mount shape, so I'm just crossing my fingers that these are the correct ones.

I don’t plan on buying the flex pipe manifold. I was planning on getting a flex pipe welded onto the down pipe, so I’d keep the manifold. I’m just thinking of longevity, because I have heard of manifolds re-cracking. I’m just wondering if the flex pipe and the new motor mounts would be good enough to not crack it again. I’d gladly pay the $ to not have to weld it again in a year.

Appreciate it guys, making this easy for me 👍

I found an OEM NOS dead stock manifold for $220 and am thinking about pulling the trigger. I was thinking about welding the one I have up, but I’m considering it. I know the other OE style ones I’ve seen all have their fair share of issues so finding a factory one brand new seems like a win. think it’s worth the extra money? I’m being quoted $60 to weld

I think my interior is light blue, but I'm not entirely sure. Does the picture below look like the light blue? Really appreciate all the info on these seats. Looks like the laredo model is out of the question, because I'd like to either keep em blue or black. I'm not too big of a fan of grey cloth seats. I'll keep my eyes peeled in the junkyards for some of the alternative cloth seats

Ahh, appreciate the info there. As far as I can tell, I'm SOL for finding some of this material that isn't 30+ years old and likely ripped to shreds. Dang, alright looks like I may try to either source some cloth seats or just reupholster that vinyl area with some of the snazzy looking plaid cloth I've seen on some other seats like these ones.