Junder28

Honestly I can’t tell if it’s milky or not.

Wel I’m hoping this is the case that it’s just a blown head gasket from sitting and that there is no internal damage. It did not appear to overheat and I heard no abnormal engine noise other than the valves tapping when it was low on oil.

So i have 6 quotes on remanufactured motors and a couple installation quotes as well. No used motors but I was just as shocked. I figured I could get it done for 2-3k with install but nope. Cheapest remanufactured motor was ATK and Titan which was 2grand for motor with core.

Well I think now I will just attempt to put a new head gasket on it and go ahead and have the head reworked. I am surprised by the quality of Rustys parts after hearing people hate on them. One of the best riding lift kits I’ve had the chance to experience too. It was college most complete kit and it was a big step up from the stock parts for sure.

ive pulled the head off an 88 xj before and it wasn't terrible. I'm just way more limited on time now. I guess i could take my time and pull it and then send it off to be looked at. I have no idea if the head has been done before. I picked this thing up in October and have been tinkering with it ever since.

Hey guys so I'm in a dilemma. I have put some serious money into my 1988 Comanche and the other day driving it home from work I blew the head gasket. After pricing out swapping in a remaned motor it is surprisingly more expensive than I anticipated. So my dilemma is to try and scrounge up the funds and swap a motor in or do I try and sell it as is and try and recover my money? It is a 1988 4.0 litre 4x4. I just put a full Rusty's suspension kit on it with adjustable control arms and brand new 33-12.5 15 tires and wheels on it. I currently have $6k in it and if I go to put a new motor in it ill have another 3ish k in it running it around 9k. If i do the swap my question is it worth 9k? If I don't what is it worth selling it in the current condition. Everything works well on it as far as AC/ heat manual trans, new 96 brake booster and master cylinder, new front brakes, braided steel brake lines ect. Also there is zero rust and the body is in fantastic shape. I just need some thoughts from you guys. Thanks in advance.

Yes I stripped the threaded hole. The bolt went in at and angle and I didn’t notice

So the block is stripped not the bolt. Can I rethread it with the pan still on?

I was replacing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket today and after 6 hrs under the Jeep I am finishing up putting the oil pan bolts in and I stripped two threads. I really do t want to have to take the pan off again a new start over. Any tricks of the trade or helpful suggestions?

It has the rustys 4.5” full pack kit with adjustable lower control arms, and quick discos. The tires are 33 1250 15 copper evolution mts. I don’t think I finished putting it in the registry. No build thread yet but now I’m contemplating it since there is a lot on the list now that I have the lift and tires on.

Here she is all out together

Agreed but I didn’t have much of an option at the time. I did keep a close eye on it and I plan on upgrading to the extended stainless lines soon

You guys rock! Seriously I’d be picking at this thing for days without y’all’s help! Got both control arms in and front coil springs!

So I should prob take the spring out of the driver side since that was the easiest to get in initially. I’ll try that and report back. So one side at a time

Yes adjustable control arms.

So I bought a 4.5” rustys lift kit and started the install. Everything was going as instructed until I got to putting the new coil springs back in. The steps required that I put the control arms in first then the springs but that wasn’t happening. I compressed the springs all the way and ended up having to take the control arms back off and I even had to disconnect the top control arm on the passenger side. So I get the springs back in and the upper control arm but the axle moved back a good bit towards the rear and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to move it forward to be able to line up the lower Control arm holes. I tried ratchet straps to the front but because of the angle it pulls it up not forward. I even tried putting the tires in it and lowering it back down on the tires to no avail. Please help I’m at a stand still

If I have the metric one ton leafs can I use a normal add a leaf kit say from Rustys or the like?

Seriously helpful information guys! i did not expect to get this kind of quick response. I will try and send some pictures as soon as i get it back to the house. Ill also go ahead and register it on the registry. Man I'm excited now. Ill work on getting the axles first and then lift and tires.

So I’m looking around and trying to score a matching set of 97- up axle assemblies. I’ve found a few and it seems like the local yard is high. He wants $650 for the pair.... also if I have the one ton leaf packs in the rear should I look into replacing them with a full pack of one tons or would add a leafs be a viable option and allow me to keep the one tons I have and add a few inches? Just trying to price this all in my head. axles-$500ish give or take and maybe I can wait to find a deal. driveshaft cut-$100-200 rustys lift kit-4.5” $729 with full leafs ( hard to find complete kits) tires- $500-$1000 and maybe steel wheels-$250 (if I go above 31s) So roughly 2k -2.5k And I know this is just to get me in the game. I could prob save some $ if I went the 3” kits and 31s and prob keep it under $2k. Does this look right to you guys? then the future plans would be lockers front and rear, recovery gear (winch bumper in the front and winch), rock sliders, and underbody protection. I’d like to do these things slowly but I do want to make sure I have a path forward on what I want this rig to be able to do. Basically get me in and out of the places I hunt with ease and give me the best odds of not getting stranded. And also every now and the. Be able to drive me to work.

How do i know the length i will need? DO i have to install the new axle and measure?

Ok so i think i have decided for ease and less headache i would be happy with a 97-up XJ 8.25 3.55 swap with a matching dana 30 in front. It seems like the cleanest and easiest way to get a better rear end. But just to clarify if i do the swap i will also need to either have my driveshaft cut down or buy a shorter one?

How difficult is it to swap in an liberty Axle or the ZJ front? Is it a bunch of modifications or would it be similar to the XJ 8.25? Just cut of the old perches and weld in the MJ perches?

So I forgot to mention it already has 31s on it but it’s stock height. So they run at full turn but other than that seem ok. I want clearance more than anything for where I’m taking it but i think from some of the other threads I’ve been reading this thing should be pretty cable at 3” and 31s. Recovery and protection being paramount. Then if I decide to add beefier axle I can look at different gears and maybe a locker... I’ll take pictures of the springs this week. It’s parked at a shop right now

Could I do the 3” lift and tires first since I need tires bad before I work on an axle swap?

Super helpful response! Man I think I’m contemplating 3” and 31s now just to save money and headache. I bet it will be plenty capable at that height. I looked up the vin and build info and it has the one ton package but it does not have the Dana 44 which sucks. If I’m using this as a hunting rig I don’t want it super difficult t put dead animals or gear in the back either.