JadeCats

Well guys i bought another comanche, since its getting cold and wet i thought it would be a great time to test out its capabilities and get myself into a little mud racing event. Well as it turns out the joints are about as good after that as mine are in the cold, so i have some things to replace. I managed to blow out both upper and lower ball joints on both sides and one of the front axle u-joints, plus three out of four tie rod ends and probably some other things that i havent discovered yet but let's start here. I lucked out and had a full set of good tie rod ends laying around but I'm still hunting down some other stuff, I see lots of different ball joints and u-joints out there so i thought it would be good to ask the professionals. What do you guys like to run for these? I have a spare set of u-joints already but they are just the autozone standard and I'm looking for a little bit of an upgrade. Side question, are the joints for the driveshaft and front axle the same? What else would you recommend changing while I'm there? Wheel bearings? Any misc seals or bits and pieces? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Many thanks you guys, yall called it. I hooked up an old alternator i had lying around and experienced no voltage drop, seems like we'll be rolling again soon! Cheers!

Thats right, and the only other wires from the alt are on the top end, one running to the oil pressure sensor and one to the distributor coil. The voltage still drops when that connector is removed with the alt still connected to the starter relay. Edit: Does it matter that my ground from the battery negative connects to the bolt on the alternator housing? Thats where the original was connected but ive seen some heeps connect that wire to the dipstick stud.

I'm not sure how that could be unless its a manufacturer defect, its practically brand new and not remanufactured.

I'm not sure i understand, wouldnt that prevent the battery from charging? Where should the big line out of the alternator connect to? Forgive my ignorance, i appreciate the assistance.

Would it have anything to do with interior if the main conector at the firewall is disconnected? With the feed wire and both fusable link sets connected there is no voltage drop, it drops only once ive added back in the line from the alternator to the starter relay. I recently changed the headlamp switch with no signs of scorching, but I'm not sure where the ignition switch connector is.

I replaced the old crispy fusable link wires that were on it and i made sure that the new wire i used was fusable link wire of the appropriate guage, don't want to deal with another fire lol, if i have done something incorrect here i would appreciate any tips you have.

Quick update, i was messing around with some other connections and when i disconnected the battery positive from its direct line to the starter relay the voltage drop stopped, can i just eliminate this wire completely?

Howdy y'all, Still running through electrical madness here, i got all my wiring figured out in the headlight system at last but I'm still running into problems. here's what ive got so far. My battery reads consistant voltage until i plug the terminals on to the posts, then it begins to drop. I'm assuming that this is caused by a short. I was told it was likely in my headlights system so i unplugged my headlight harness connector and it continued to drop. I recently did some work on the fuse panel side so i disconnected the connector on the firewall to the fuse panel to see if it was somewhere on the other side. The voltage continued to drop. I don't really know where to go from here and I'm not familiar enough with diagnosing electrical systems in general to make any sound guesses. Any ideas?