abugarcias

Yes the old coolant did stink really bad when I drained it.

Also would the PCV system have anything to do with this? There are some pinches / cracks in the tubing I have a replacement on order just waiting for it to get in.

Thank you both for the help. I will change the oil and check for any coolant / water and start her up and look for bubbles in the radiator cap.

No I checked the oil and the level was ok and it was brown (I'm going to change it and see if that makes a difference).

So my coolant tank on the closed system burst twice and after the second time I decided to do the conversion to open. This is what I've done so far: -New thermostat -New water pump -New radiator -New hoses all around -New recovery tank I filled it up with distilled water and coolant, and while checking for leaks after about 5 minutes of idling steam (smoke?) starting coming from the engine block (out of the oil filler cap). I only have an idiot temp light and I'm not even sure if it works (never came on), and I think the thermostat was open because there was coolant in both the heater lines and upper radiator hose. I'm at a loss as to what to do, I basically replaced the whole cooling system and it still seems like it's running as hot as ever. Could it be something else in the actual engine that is jacked up that's causing it to overheat? Should I just continue running it through the smoke/steam (it's not a lot, but definitely noticeable and I didn't want to continue to run it and completely mess something up). Could the oil be bad and all that is needed is a simple oil change? I just got it about a month ago and have only driven it a few miles so I'm not sure what else might be wrong with it. Thanks in advance for the help.

Comanche09, That looks great, exactly what I want to do by simplifying it and by simplifying it make it more reliable with less parts / opportunities to fail. Thanks for the pics...only thing is I don't have an electric fan so I won't need that port on the radiator to plug it in, and if in the future I want to add one I can either put it in wired to a switch or put the sensor in a HO Tstat housing which should be an easy switch. With the recovery bottle, does the line run from the radiator to it, or is there some place else in the system it plugs in to? Thanks everyone for your help I can't wait to get this done and get her on the road again.

Thanks for your replies. 1987 Comanche, that would be great if I could see your pics. I was initially of the thought to stick with the closed system because that's the way it was designed, and if burped properly and taken care of worked just as good. That was until my tank burst not once but twice, and a heater hose split open (mind you the hoses are original, and I did burp the system by jacking up the rear and taking out the temp sensor). I figured not only should I replace the original hoses, but the original radiator too...and while I was doing all that, why not convert to an open system that is easier to fix should I be out on the trail or in the middle of nowhere if something goes wrong. So if I understand correctly, the only difference is the radiator cap which makes or breaks a closed / vs open system. And the overflow tank gets fed with a line directly from the radiator? Any special procedure for refilling this system? I assume juts fill it from the radiator cap and don't worry about burping it because it's open.

After blowing a tank and heater hose in my 23 year old (original) closed system I am trying to convert over to an open system. I've read extensively both on here and other forums and come up with a game plan, keep in mind I'm trying to do this real inexpensive. 1) Pick up a radiator from ebay for ~$60 2) Pick up 97+ XJ heater hoses from dealer or local parts supply 3) Drop the radiator in, ditch the heater control valve, connect hoses directly to heater core. I just replaced the tstat so that is new. I do not have an electric auxiliary fan so I won't have to worry about wiring that. Now for the recovery bottle...can I convert my old (new) bottle to open style...and if so how do I go about doing it? Where does it connect to the new open cooling system, and with how many lines (1 or 2)? And finally, what fundamental change in the system allows it now to be run in an open fashion? Is it the type of radiator with a filler neck on it? I've searched for this answer and can't really find it unless it's right in front of me... Thanks in advance.

Mine just cracked and I ordered one on Ebay for $16 + plus shipping came to about $25. Here is one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-88-89 ... ccessories I ordered on Sunday, shipped out Monday and I got it today. I also bought a Jeep from Steve White motors they are a good dealer to do business with.

So I used to have an XJ from 98-2005 and WK from 2005-2007 which I traded in for a jetta due to gas prices. However my uncle recently gave me his 1988 MJ since he didn't need it anymore. It has about 140,000 miles on it, 4.0L manual transmission 4WD, and it's been to Alaska and back! I am in the process of fixing a few things on it to get it state inspected ready, last thing I have to do are the reverse lights. Mechanically it's in pretty good shape I haven't noticed any issues (though I haven't driven it at highway speeds on public roads yet). Anyway here she is: And a pic of my old jeeps side by side :D I plan on lifting it 3" and putting 31" tires on it, and cleaning it up real nice. It has a lot more stuff to fix once I get it state inspected, but they're only minor like interior lights, headliner, speakers, etc... One dilemma I do have is the side of the bed is rusting behind and about an inch above the flares. What is the best way of going about fixing this? I don't have any experience doing body work but more than willing to learn. Thanks!