SoCalManche

I'll just disconnect. Injector(ORG wire): BL. I do not have an ORG wire for EGR solenoid. I have YEL and BLK. I double checked all connections too, and it's connector is the only one that will fit. Others are opposite fit. EGR side has two-pin female connector with male connection pins; the other two-pin male connectors besides the YEL and BLK connector are with female connection pins. Make sense?

Sorry, I'm not following here. You want me to disconnect those two? Jumper (30 & 87) and everything connected: D1_6 = BL.

This little guy is pretty small, but each light that has popped on seems strong and what I would say is considered "bright" for its size. No flickering or anything.

Ohhhhhh, gotcha. My bad. I totally misread what you said. 30: BL. D1_5:BL. Key ON: 86:BL. D1_2:BL.

I did connect it. Connect to Batt Pos post, yes? Yes, color code confirmed on what I tested.

This is with relay removed entire time: Pin 30: NL; all other pins BL. D1_5:NL. Block ground:BL. KEY ON and relay removed entire time: Pin 86:NL; only pin 87 BL. D1_2:NL. Block ground:BL.

What do you want me to do with it once I get back home?

Yeah, I can definitely go snag one right quick.

Here's that deliciously, tar-y connector! I'll have to do some sifting to find the fuel pump relay wire connection. It doesn't list which connection it is based on the image? UPDATE: I found the one orange and black wire coming into the connector. It is fed from the harness that goes through the front bumper? Anyways, everything is so compact going into the connector that you can't visible see what connects to what.

Honestly man, with owning an MJ and TJ, I like to have more tools than not because I'm sure to need them later anyways with how much I tinker. Will this work? https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/circuit-tester/surebilt-6-volt-and-12-volt-pocket-size-circuit-tester/532119_0_0?spps.s=5667&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:71700000060662503&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhtT1BRCiARIsAGlY51KlUnGV_IWuC9llgXFvI8ym9KRlTLAKp8mA1QtBBrh64PEHby6ehlgaAirqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds That's some good info to know for future encounters! I just started soldering stuff, so that entices me!

Haha, thanks man. I'm on the edge of my seat because we're really close. But yes, I should be (and am) thanking eaglescout526 and Ωhm . They've been the help I've needed to knock this out. Cheers to them! I feel kind of weird that it's 19 pages long, but I want it all documented instead of private messages so that it's out there for anyone else that may have similar issues. I try to round up as much info in my messages as I can. Alright, I burned myself out playing a small game of park soccer, so first thing in the morning I'll be dropping a picture of the inside of that large block connector. Have a good night, guys!

Gah, okay. I'll have to go get an extension for my baby ratchet to snug itself in there. I'll report back later tonight with pictures of what I find. Probably be around 8pm (PST) or so.

I tried disconnecting that a while back and it's pretty difficult. I'll take a stab at it again.

I have a block looking connection under the brake booster. Is that what you are referring too? Kind of looks like a miniature C101 connector.

What else could be done to better the voltage at FP?

I feel like that is the only thing left at this point? I mean, resistance is good on injector and voltage is there for harness. The only other weird thing is the voltage at FP connector being drastically low, even though it seems to prime now.

I think I may add a ground from dipstick to the close 10mm bolt. I believe I saw Cruiser mention that on this forum somewhere.

Yes, this is the most action I've seen out of her in a year. Lol

So, I think I'm doing it wrong, but showing the video anyways to show how the truck is trying to FIRE currently. https://drive.google.com/open?id=15-wh0Z2GJd46WUmrZdA3xF2WGzvzWr7X

Eh, it was $20. I'm not worried about it, plus my curiosity got the better of me, as I wish to see what the spray pattern looks like, regardless of how meager it may be. I'll do the test after I eat right quick.

Yes, it stayed lit the entire time, and when cranking it was a constant dim. I got lucky and found someone on Craigslist selling a new-in-box timing light for $20 and just picked it up. This test would still help, yes?

Lol, yeah. I just tried to jumper the relay without the FP connector plugged in, and started worrying on why there wasn't any fuel being pushed; it's definitely time for a break. Voltage at Splice K was Batt voltage with jumper.

That's weird. I'm pretty sure I tested 87 without a jumper and it hit 10V. Now I have to go check again.

I tested the pin 87 directly when I did tests, so nothing was in socket. Yes, those readings were taken earlier before I re-crimped the wires I believe.

I wonder if fixing those dipstick grounds shifted the voltage. KEY ON & FP harness unplugged: Pin 30 = Batt voltage Pin 87 & Splice K = 0.5V KEY ON & FP harness plugged: Pin 30 = Batt voltage Pin 87 & Splice K = 0.01V What the hell is going on?