SoCalManche

I'm going to be very specific here with how I administered the test. B+ & D2_13 = 11.87V with key off. - If I pull back throttle linkage and plunger pops out, there is no change in voltage. - If I press the plunger in with my hand, voltage increases to 11.88V. - If I let the throttle linkage push the plunger back in naturally, it stays at 11.87V.

If I pull back the throttle linkage, the plunger pops up, and it feels like it is spring-loaded. I can pushed it down and it will pop up after I release.

What is the voltage supposed to be?

Here you go! I've got two videos: This one is no throttle action; https://drive.google.com/open?id=14IB4XZfqUeMbPIFs4aRrsI7Rhd37Oc1o This one is with some throttle play; https://drive.google.com/open?id=14JrFWTSTD2GFR-o9MKPTkDXVNxCwTHkj

Oh good, you saw it. I'll get a video of the same angle with the relay in instead.

My bad, was setting the GoPro up for a good angle to see everything going on. Here is a video of me playing with the throttle while cranking with jumper wire installed. Edit: let me re-upload, something happened and playback isn't working. Edit#2: Here is new link for that video for all those other out here following along. https://drive.google.com/open?id=14F2nY6TJoSbisbO83mhP9WnDW-uyX0Jc

D2_13 shows 0.48V with key OFF; 9.3V for roughly 3 seconds, then drops to ~8.8V, this is with key ON. Both interactions done with ground at Batt Neg. T25 does not show the same voltage. It fluctuates with key ON, fluctuation in mV. With key OFF, it doesn' t fluctuate as much, but still remains in mV. D2_13 and T25 show O.L. with key ON/OFF. Edit: forgot to mention, to ground T25, I used the firewall ground. I don't know if that's making things wonky or not.

I can video the attempt. You want me to play with the throttle while cranking with jumper wire in socket?

Yes. Apparently I have both a WOT and PS switch.

Jumps behind coolant reservoir and into harness.

Is this what you are referring to?

Is that bad? Contradictory?

Here are the two videos, titled respectively. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WHavMjKUHnE6tAeOgjdMAW3CgLITrh5Z Edit: If you make sure to change the resolution to 1080P, you can see the fuel pressure on both.

I just took two videos (via my lovely GoPro), showing the differences between jumper wire and relay, as well as how different the cranking sounds. Give me a second to upload them.

Nope; no pressure. I dumped enough fuel into the TBI for her to maintain an idle briefly though. But no fuel being pushed.

I never see the injector "mist" any fuel into TBI.

No love; it did fire, but only because I threw some fuel down the TBI. Sounds and smells like a damn lawnmower when starting up, lol. Fuel pump did not engage, per normal, with fuel relay in circuit.

But we still have 9V on (C) when at Batt Neg. Still weird, yes?

Does this help? I went back out to try the (B) and (C) again. Before doing so, I checked each pin of both connectors with ground probe at Batt Neg post and power probe at each pin. The readings basically stayed the same; actually went up about 0.1V. Anyways, after that, I tried the (B) & (C) for both connectors (unplugged) and got 5V. Ground probe on (B) and power on (C).

Please do, this is why EagleScout and I have been going at these two connectors for some time now. Hopefully this will pick your mind more.

These are what I got: MAP: A = 4.02V / B = 3.99V / C = 9.06V TPS: A = 3.98V / B = 4.02V / C = 9.06V

Correct. Edit: trying to rule out everything before ECU.

As far as I can sift through on the relay side of the harness, basically where all the mess is in the picture, no wires seem to be fried by looks alone. The inside of all those connectors looks pretty pristine too.

Some of the mess I'm dealing with.

I wouldn't know. But since she's been with me (circa July 2018), I haven't had a rodent problem where both the truck and myself have been residing.