Trix

Hey guys... I've torn this MJ apart about ten times in the past 6 months, I took a good deal on a pretty solid (f*cked floor pans - planning to patch them myself I do metal fab work as a hobby) Anyways.. back on topic. Last night I was starting to put all the bellhousing bolts back in to mate the motor and 4spd together and bolt up the tranny crossmember again. For future reference, everyone should bolt the tranny crossmember and brackets to the tranny before putting it back in the truck, its being a major PITA to do that now with the motor and tranny already mated up. Anyways.. I noticed I only have I believe 4 main bellhousing bolts, but theyre different sizes. I wondered if anyone knew for future reference what size the two different bellhousing bolts were, and if anyone knew off the top of there head why they chose to run different sized bellhousing bolts. Also.. has anyone modified a tailgate from another vehicle to bolt up on a comanche? My tailgate is pretty damaged, and realistically its not reshapeable with how bad its bowed out and been damaged, and its beein a pain finding a tailgate for it. Thanks guys. One day this POS rotted forest truck will be back alive and on public roads again.

Hey guys... I had posted earlier thanking people for help but ive ran into an issue. i've taken both pitman arms off my steer boxes so that I could transfer my MJ pitman arm onto my S10 Saginaw 3 screw gear box I picked up. Well.. the f*cking shaft on the S10 box is a Hair larger than the MJ box, so I can't directly swap over the pitman arms, and the S10 pitman had too weird of an angle to allow my rod/drag balljoint to push up and bolt in. Can I switch these entire shafts over? am I f*cked on using this box? Sorry to cuss, but ive had a hell of a time with these gear boxes the past two days, and I'm really wanting this dumb MJ back on the road. The sooner I get this thing steering and driving again, the more realistic chance of getting it down to my shop and actually begin building a nice truck out of her.

I just wanted to chime in and thank you guys for all the input i received in this thread. I went to PAP saturday and found a 1991 s10 2.5 Iron Duke Manual steering truck with low miles. I honestly don't even know why it was at PAP, the poor truck was totally complete even with manual tranny muncie 4spd. :( could only afford the steering box and was so sweaty and nasty by the time I got it, I didn't pick up any extras this time. Anyways, i've already removed my $#!&ty box saturday and pitman arm yesterday, and brought my new box down to work today to switch arms so I can bolt it up tonight. Just wanted to thank the Mod who chimed in the most and the others who gave me great input on the subject, saved me a good $100 going this route.

Just a short update, this is an 86 2WD MJ. Therefore, not concerned about things like hydro assist. I called (Autozone) and priced a manual gear box for an 88 S10 4Cyl 2WD, and they had it listed at $230 as opposed to $170 for my comanche. AKA not the same part number/gear box. Is there any additional things I can look for while finding a replacement gear box Saturday at PAP? Anything specific that you guys would Know shares a similar gearbox? E.G. "Scope out 80's S10's, Blazer, Fullsize 1/2Tons, etc." ?? I know I'm being a PITA, but I'm really motivated for getting both a gearbox and windshield saturday. Once I get a new steering box in, it'll be street ready and safe to take on the road, and Id really like to get it driven down here to my shop this weekend so I can start working on it before and after work. Thanks again guys for the great response to this thread, again, I really appreciate how helpful ComancheClub members treat people on the forum. Nothing but helpful responses and insight. One additional thing, if PS is so much more common, and being at work on WIFI on my laptop I havent had time to search, but does anyone have a standard breakdown of parts nec. from PAP for PS conversion? Thanks a lot guys. Really appreciate it, hope to get pictures up soon once I actually have enough modifications/resto work done.

Hornbod, Thank you very much for you response. I was wondering if you could narrow down that list a little to make it easier on me when I got to PAP. Should i take my old box with me to compare? Can you by chance list cars/trucks in that year range that I can go straight to in order to try to find one? Chevy vans/trucks? Olds vehicles/pontiac that had option manual or power to steel a box from? I would really appreciate any extra input to make this possible so that I can snag one of these Saturday. Thanks a lot already for your help, this is the best forum for MJs/XJ people, i've always had great people willing to help and give me information when I get stuck.

Hey guys. I'm real close to getting my first year 86 MJ on the road again, but its in desperate need of a new steering box (has the dreaded like.. 3" play in the steering wheel) I've determined its the box, when you turn the wheel left and right you can see the geer box flex at the bottom where the pitman bolts up so i know its worn out and trash. Can anyone please enlighten me to any options besides spending $180 on a new one from the autoparts store? Does anything else in the planet at a junkyard (pull a part nearby) that has a steering box that'll bolt right up? What besides the comanche had manual steering that might be available at PAP? Cherokees? Rare i'm sure though. I'd love trying to get a steering box put in this weekend along with a windshield and ill basically be ready to hit the road. Please, again, I really appreciate any input and help on getting this beast back on the road again. Ready to start finishing my floorpans and full interior rennovation. I'm building a murdered out MJ and using all my available things here at work (tint/audio/video shop) to really fix her up. Thanks in advance, I look forward to any input you may have.

I completely agree that everyone is entitled to their oppinion. As for cornering though, i'm not lowering mine for cornering. I do plan to theme it somewhat like a mini-truck, but not immediately. I still need a windshield, a fender, a rear bumper, and lots of sanding and elbow greese and metal work before I get to really enjoy the truck any. As for the spare 2WD parts, i'm located in TN. MA, might just be a bit out of driving range for me lol. Ugh... so many parts and so much time still needing to be invested in this rusty lady. BTW, anyone know off the top of their head what makes these trucks have a SHI*T ton of steering wheel play left and right, before actually turning the wheels/axle? I have like 3-4" of play both directiosn before it actually catches to do anything lol.

Depends. I'm keeping my MJ completely stock (well, suspension height anyways), my XJ is the lifted one. Slammed to the max, to the point that the wheels are coming through the wheel wells in the bed and are no longer anywhere near the openings in the fenders, and so low that the rocker panels have to be trimmed looks ultra retarded and if that's what the OP has in mind I'd tend to agree. Lowered a bit without looking completely ridiculous? Go for it, make that sucker go fast and corner great. I specifically stated in my thread that if you didn't like the idea of it, good for you, but its not your or anyone elses vehicles. (No, i'm not picking on you, or the other lift or go home posters, just re-stating my feelings on the matter.) I would hope that anyone who is a comanche or jeep owner can appreciate and respect the time it takes to fix up old rusty MJ's and properly put them back together. I've already sourced bucket seats, and have plans that will push this MJ even further outside the box than you guys could currently think up. As for titled license plates, no thanks, but shaved taillights? We'll see how she comes out once i'm through.

My springs are already under-axle, (I don't know why i'm stating that, you guys already know, mental notes I guess) so honestly, I have no fear for when it comes to lowering the rear. I figred 3.5" of rear drop should be okay with the driveshaft still. It wasn't until I 2-linked my rear suspension on my fullsize that I had to shorten the driveshaft some. ZJ Coils! Can you tell me what adjustment you ran into with the steering to clear everything up? 3" should satisfy me with the front, i'll run a small tire to try to make up for some of it also. (Figure I can gain another inch of axle-and-all drop from like a 50 series tire in place of the 60 or 65 series 15" tires that are currently on it. I really appreciate the ZJ coil input, I'm excited to run to pull-a-part this weekend and grab some coils. Can you tell me any additional info on the ZJ drop? Did you run into any issues with the suspension or control arms with that drop? I'm going to start a build thread today, but I won't be able to post any pictures until I get home from work tonight. I picked up some Tercel bucket seats that look bad @$$, and gutted the entire cab today to get a visual at the floor pan, I have some patching to do. Got it running this weekend too! I was really loving driving her around the block for the first time, but damn my steering has a stupid amount of play in the wheel. Thanks again guys for all the input.

Alright so... you can hate on the idea, but either way its happening. I have a first year MJ 2WD, AX-4 tranny, 2.5L beater MJ project truck that I picked up for $350 thats pretty damn solid. So.. I'm going to lower it. I'm hoping you guys will give me some helpful input. I've seen some trucks lowered an inch or two, but i'm looking at doing a 4" drop. So here's my questiosn. Why not just reverse a 4" lift kits measurements and drop? Has anyone on here successfully dropped an MJ more than just an inch? I'm thinking I shouldn't have to modify the pitman arm or the upper arms, but maybe raise my track/drag setup and shorten the lower arms, and of course i'll have to chop off about two coils. So.. can anyone please be willing to give me some helpful input on the 2WD front suspension for dropping it? Is there $#!& in the front end I can just toss out? It's an entire 4WD setup basically, as you guys know, with just a floating axle. Slamming trucks is nothing new to me, nor is lifting, I worked for Top Gun Customz for about 4 years, but dropping a 4-linked 4WD simulated front end, is new to me, and before I go cutting and chopping, I thought i'd try to get some information answered first. I appreciate any and all helpful input. It's nothing personal to everyone that's lifted on here, I just don't have the want or will to invest the type of money to lift it, tires, 4WD conversion, etc. Just doesn't interest me the way slamming it and chopping it up does.