gilman711

I thought the flex tube was collapsing possibly but I believe I would have noticed that before. Engine runs with tube bolted to TB but not connected to Airbox. As soon as you put on Airbox it dies instantly. I was hoping a wod of bills were in tube...I double checked.

Everything was clean and no blockages other than that valve. The picture shows it must be missing an elbow that probably goes towards the grill or something for cooler incoming air. Vacuum line is hooked up for the valve but doesn't appear to be working properly. I'm going to modify the lower Airbox and remove that valve and put a tube that will go into grill area. Either way I'm shocked that this was issue but also relieved! Can't thank everyone enough for their help!

***Problem Solved*** Well I'm in disbelief of what the issue was but here it is guys. It was the Airbox! I had initially cleaned TB, cleaned Airbox and installed new filter. There is some valve in bottom of Airbox to which I'm not sure it's purpose. This valve is not working properly and is air tight when closed because if I put tube on it immediately dies. I removed the intake tube and it fired right up. Let go through heat cycle and changed oil. Sounds great and starts without hesitation.

That is what I am thinking must be issue as well. I did clean contacts. I ordered a new coil and a set of wires for it. The set on there looks very cheap. It will be a few days before I get to mess with it more.

I know cap is turning by how I'm watching spark. I have not watched it crank with valve cover off but if I have good compression the valves have to be working as I have good pressure out of tailpipe too

I have air, fuel, spark and compression...indexed distributor...I just don't know what else to check...

Any negatives to have the CPS Voltage be 1+ AC Volts? I've adjusted 3 different voltages and tried but no make any difference in attempt to fire. All positions are allowing for spark and no noticeable difference in spark regardless of position/Voltage of CPS.

I cleaned and drilled out the original CPS Sensor (couldn't return a modified part to store) and can now get anywhere from .5 all the way to 1.5 AC Volts but STILL will not fire.

Well new CPS installed and AC Voltage when cranking still low...fluctuates between .44-.56 which I believe is still too low? I'm still getting spark but will not fire up. I did pull ECU and checked wiring going in from CPS and it's good there. Cleaned and Dielectric Grease done for good measure

3 different tests over course of about a week and each time get different results so yes time for a new CPS. I'll keep everyone updated!

During Re-test of CPS...I'm getting an ohms resistance of 178ohms which is within normal range. When cranking on AC Volts though I'm only getting .35 which is below the .5-.8 range.

Thank you so much for that! I don't see CPS on there though? Are they calling it something else? Side note: I am trying out a new CPS Sensor next week.

MAP sensor plugged in and tested according to www.lunghd.com and tested good (I can't test the running voltage obviously though)

The original one it was plugged into seems to be for CPS as plugged in the other connector and then instantly no spark. Swap it to other and have spark. Connector with RED WITH GREEN STRIPE WHITE WITH BLACK STRIPE

This is what my CPS was plugged into initially. The wire comes from the firewall. I'm thinking the picture of above is the actual CPS Connector and this is possibly for something else?

Found another random unused connector which is right next to the CPS Connector...or is this the CPS Connector? 2 Wire BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE WHITE WITH BLACK STRIPE

Found this Diagram for injector wiring to confirm my injectors connectors are in the correct locations but thought it was good to share.

No black smoke. I am getting good pressure at tailpipe too as did think maybe exhaust was clogged but no.

I do not but I will try and get one tomorrow to test. How would I verify the injector harness is installed correctly?

That was first thing I did along with battery/fuel filter/plugs is flush tank and put in 5 gallons of Ethanol Free 87 before I ever tried to start.

I have a receipt from shop that put it in. It just lists it as a compression tested/good used engine and doesn't appear to have been apart but has been resealed as far as oil pan/intake/exhaust/water pump and so forth. Looks like a clean engine overall. It was put in 2016. I personally have not done compression test on it but I guess that might be next. What are average numbers for Renix 4.0?

It seems to try a little harder with it but does not run. Is anything else that determines WHEN? It seems to be indexed properly. I have checked two different cylinders (1&3) to check for spark while cranking and both do. I guess I could try a new coil but I feel like it would still run/idle even if had weak spark. I have had vehicles in past with weak spark and they run just at greater load will break up/misfire. Can't thank everyone enough for help so far!

Wouldn't I not have spark if that was bad or no?

53005535 is block casting number so appears to still be a Renix

Either fortunately or unfortunately it looks like it has the correct flywheel in it. That was a good thought though and I was honestly hoping that was it as yes I'd have to pull trans but at least I figured it out.