CatfishJoe

Hey Chargum, glad I could help some! I'm honestly not too sure about the LB/RD + LB splice either, but it seemed to be required for mine to work. What was the issue with the door connectors? Janky terminals?

Yep my bad, got a lil sloppy with the drawing there. Thanks for the correction! I'll update the post shortly

Airborne, glad I could help out some! I figured the wire colours might not translate for all years, nice to know that's the case. Nice install! That's some tidy wiring you've got around the cab and by that fuse block As for the constantly lit door lock, I've got the same deal going on in mine. Not too sure what that's about honestly. Might dig in to it again just out of curiosity. I'll let you know if I get anywhere with that!

Thanks! Electrical can be real finicky and it never hurts to have extra info. Speaking of which, I drew up a wiring diagram for anyone who likes more visual instruction (like myself). Keep in mind the up/down wires I've labeled aren't necessarily the correct colour, for example I'm not sure if pink/black is actually the door lock wire, just that it and orange/black control the lock/unlock functions.

Hey all, I got tired of being unable to roll the passenger window down easily from the drivers side, so I decided to go ahead and swap in a set of full power options doors from an 01 XJ to match my 01 fenders and header. This means power locks, windows, mirrors, and a whole lot of messing around with wire diagrams and head scratching. I did a search of the forums and found some solid write ups on swapping out the door mounting hardware and bracketry. One area I found lacking was the wiring. This prompted me to do a not so little write up on how I got it done using the stock doors and harness off my donor. Keep in mind there will be differences between years/trim levels, and this is no means a definitive guide for all applications. Now to get into it: Recommended tools: - MULTIMETER - Soldering iron - Terminal crimpers - Wire strippers - Basic hand tools + screwdrivers - Wiring diagrams Materials I used: - ’01 XJ Power doors - ’01 XJ Engine bay fuse box - Fuse box wire from XJ - Heat shrink - Solder - Electrical tape - Harness covering (Split loom or whatever you like) - (2) 20A fuses, (1) 10A fuse - Assorted lengths and gauges of wire, if you're building your own harness, use 12AWG to be safe (16AWG For mirror circuit) Check the wiring in the doors first! More on this later. I was able to pull the doors and all the interior wiring I could need out of my donor vehicle. This includes the cross body harness, and the main interior clip that runs along under the dash. I cut out all unnecessary wires from the connectors and cross body harness and was left with this: I then decided I wanted to run all the wires along under the dash, combined it with the existing 01 under dash wiring and cut it down to reach from door to door. I eliminated the big greasy C200/C201 connectors, and the bulkhead connectors: The 01 XJ uses a junction block in the lower right kick panel to act as a splice and power distribution center to all the circuits needed. I chose to eliminate it, and instead use an auxiliary fuse box located in the engine bay for power distribution. I was able to pull the fuse box from the XJ and used that as my power and relay center. I tapped the run-acc circuit for the windows and mirrors off of a dark brown or black (it's dark down there) wire under the steering column, using my multimeter (or test light) to determine which wire would receive power in those key positions. To do this, put one meter probe or test light clamp onto the ground bolt located above the hood release handle, and back probe the large, black, flat connector below the steering column wire by wire, first with the key out of the ignition, then with the key in the run and acc positions. I used this wire to connect to pin 86 on my relay, grounded pin 85, sent fused constant power to pin 30, and keyed power from pin 87 (N.O. contacts) to the switch. My understanding of how the power goes from fuses to doors is this: 1. Constant power comes in from the battery to the passenger door, energizing the locks on a red wire. 2. Keyed power for the windows comes into the drivers door on a tan wire 3. Keyed power for the mirrors comes into the drivers door on a yellow/dark green wire The tan wires are the same 20A circuit, so I spliced them together and added a tail to run to the aux fuse box, fed by the relay. The conductors required in my modified under dash harness the way I decided to wire it, are as follows: Red – Door lock power, constant 12V Tan – Keyed power for all accessories, run from added aux fuse box Yellow – Switch power jumper for windows from drivers switch to passenger Brown/White + Violet/White – Window motor jumpers Orange/Violet + Pink/Violet – Lock switch (signal) jumpers from passenger to driver Orange/Black + Pink/Black – Lock motor power Yellow/Dark Green – Keyed 10A mirror power Orange/Yellow – Power mirror common Dark Blue – Power mirror motor Yellow/Black – Power mirror motor Black - Ground This left me with 12 wires running from door to door, as the red wire only enters on the passenger side, and the yellow/dark green on the driver’s side. There are a few more wires needed if you want the speaker wires as part of this harness, but I chose to skip the headache and keep the wiring my truck currently had and spliced through to the door speakers. In hindsight, it would’ve been way easier to custom make a harness from scratch and skip all the connector deleting and soldering, but since I got all the wiring from the donor for next to nothing I decided to use it. Next was bench testing! It’s always a good idea to test things before prettying up your harness and buttoning everything up. First go, I hooked everything up and was a bit shocked to see I could only lock my doors. After some head scratching and getting my money’s worth out of my multimeter I found that the ground in the door harness itself was right buggered. So if you’re planning to do this conversion in the future make sure you CHECK THE WIRING IN THE DOORS! It will save you a lot of time and sanity once you get to testing everything. Using the continuity feature on your meter, put one probe onto one wire in the connector coming out of the door, and the other probe on the same colour wire in the connector at the switch/lock actuator/window motor/mirror connector. The meter should beep, or read a low ohmic value. If your meter does not beep, and/or indicates infinite resistance (0L on some), you have a broken wire. Also note, I couldn’t get the doors to unlock initially. After messing with the passenger side DOOR harness, I found that the light blue, and light blue/red wires in the smaller passenger switch connector needed to be spliced together. I didn’t see these wires on my look through of the diagrams, but assume it must be for some keyless entry module or something similar. After splicing, all works as it should. Be sure you’re using the correct light blue/red wire, as the speakers use the same colour. I mounted the 01 fuse box in the engine bay like this: Bolted everything up to my MJ, modifying the door striker, running the harness along behind the lower dash panel and fishing the door wires through the body. I fed the wires from my engine bay fuse box through a grommet in the firewall to get into the cab, then branched off as needed. Make sure all your connections are clean, tight, and free from stress/strain, as this could cause strange issues with intermittent connections between terminals. After tidying the harness up a bit, I tested it all again using my new fuse box and harness. The easiest way to do this swap if I were to do it again for someone who wanted it done would be this: - Run 8AWG stranded conductor from battery to fuse block - Run 12AWG from 20A fuse to passenger door switch (Red) - 10A fuse to mirror power - Run signal wire from keyed power (existing) to pin 86 on relay - Ground pin 85 on relay - 20A fuse from holder to pin 30 on relay - Window power to pin 87 on relay (Tan) - Jump the light blue + light blue/red wires in the passenger door - Build a harness with 2 door lock motor jumpers, 2 door lock signal wires, 1 window power jumper, 2 window motor jumpers, 3 power mirror jumpers (common, motor 1, motor 2), a keyed accessory power (from relay) and a 12AWG wire grounded securely to the vehicle - Run my 3 power wires (Constant, keyed, mirrors) into the cab from fuses and splice/connect to interior harness. You can use the stock connectors from the 01 and tuck them up under the dash and everything will work fine. Since I wanted my doors to be easily removable, I used the door connectors from my roommates ’94 ZJ with the infinity sound system. These are awesome oval shaped connectors with a whole lot of terminals that are fastened together with a bolt. I removed the bolt by drilling out the head to make unplugging them quick and easy. I then oval-ed out the hole for the rubber door boot on the truck’s body, screwed and then siliconed them in place to prevent moisture intrusion. Having a good soldering iron is a huge asset for adding these connectors, as there are a whole lot of wires to splice. All done! That’s about all I can think of for now, let me know if you guys have any questions or comments!

Quick update: Sorry for disappearing for a while there. Thanks for your suggestion Coolwind, I noticed the smoke was still there after changing out fuel rail parts and did as you suggested. I replaced the lines and grommet coming out of the valve cover, added an oil catch can, and did the valve cover mod. No more smoke in the cabin! Looks like it's time to rebuild the engine over the winter, got a LOT of blow-by.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I changed out my valve cover gasket, re-did my pcv/ccv lines and then my clutch blew so I've had her parked for the last few days while I work on my other Comanche. As I swapped the fuel rail from this one onto the other, I noticed a small amount of gas leaking out of the rear fuel line where it connects to the manifold. I'm guessing this is caused by the clip there not sealing properly, and would also explain the smoke I'd been getting in the cab while on the throttle earlier. Hoping the rest of the work goes well and I get one of these on the road in time for the weekend.

Hey all, This is my first post here, so I figured I'd do a bit of an introduction as well. I'm located in western BC and I've got myself a '90 base Comanche 4.0, 5-speed, rwd for $800CAD, looking to do a lot of cool stuff with it, but need to get the main issues sorted first. I've fixed my tail light wiring, and done the headlight relay mod, which fixed my flickering headlights. I've noticed in the right lighting I can see smoke/fumes entering the cab from what seems to be low on the passenger side (below the dash) and possibly the ripped shift boot. After a bit of reading I went ahead and replaced the exhaust manifold, and added a flex joint in a new downpipe, with new gaskets all around. I noticed a stud had been snapped in the head, so I went ahead and drilled and tapped the hole larger. Also, the cat has been removed at some point. After this, nothing has changed. I'm still seeing and smelling fumes leaking into the cab. I noticed that I have a filter on top of the valve cover that leaks oil out onto the cover. Could this possibly be a source of the smoke? Everyone I've taken along to check it out has said the smoke smells more like oil than exhaust. The weird thing is, it only smokes under load. If I'm sitting in neutral at a light, I can rev it all day and not have any fumes come in, same with going downhill in gear. Going up hill is another story, it's at it's worst when on the gas in 3rd - 5th gears, especially going up hill. I'm at a loss here, as I've checked the whole exhaust system and can't find any leaks. The underside is a bit oily, but its nothing crazy, could I have possibly blown a seal that shoots oil onto the exhaust under load? Downpipe still looks clean too. Another thing I should note, I have almost no floor on the passenger side, which is on the list of things to fix. I've thought about repairing the floor and hoping for the best, but would rather fix the source of the problem instead of putting a band aid on it. Any input you might have would be GREATLY appreciated, as I love this lil truck and want to fix it up the way it deserves. Also, it makes first dates a bit embarrassing when the smoke starts rolling in lol Thanks!