ruralandalone

I can only answer a few of those questions. Drive train is stock. I have no info on the ratio. tires are 18" plugs, ignition wires, oil and filter, fuel and air filters are new. No tune up beyond that. IS there more I should do as far a a tune up goes?

Not particularly. But it is an elderly vehicle with an unknown history (although I suspect it was used as a plow truck) and high mileage. I assume it has the original engine, but I can't prove it either way I just note the general lack of power and what I consider to be a low top speed, and I thought it would be appropriate to check it. I was doing my '92 volvo (190 lbs cold) and since I have never done the jeep.... (I note the hopelessly optimistic speedometer. This thing would not do 120 off a cliff with a tailwind....)

cold and warm testing with compression guage. . 120 across the board, no change.

Can anyone tell me what would be considered good compression on a 2.5 L engine?

Thanks for that! I thought it a bit much, but that is why I asked.

I picked up one of those plug into the cigarette type voltmeters for my 86 Comanche. I was surprised to see that the voltage seems to be averaging over 14.5 volts, with an observed high of 15.1 volts. Is this unusual? Is it a sign of an impending problem that I should address? I know the battery is good, and fully charged.....

I'll try it, but really - it bleats!

I'm not actually sure I WANT the door chime to work, mind you. But at least now I have a working ignition lock. Now I guess I am going to have to consider whether to upgrade the horn, which seems to bleat rather than honk. Not sure I want my badass truck to sound like a lamb..... :)

Success! I got it in place, put the rest together, and everything works! (miracle of miracles!) T He hardest part was to get the turn signal mechanism into proper place, so that the switch worked in both directions. Thanks for the help!

I assume it should go in after the locking screw?

That is the one! Exactly the info I need. Thank you very much! It may not be essential, but since I'm in there anyway, I might as well try to get as much correct as I can. (and I apologize for the incorrect terminology)

86 comanche... Can anyone tell me EXACTLY how the accessory relay at the ignition and the metal spring clip go together? I have replaced my ignition switch, and I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the spring clip and relay back in. I know they have to go in together, but I am uncertain of the spring clip orientation. Does it go above, below or beside the plastic relay? My best guess is above (away from) the lock cylinder, with the small bend at the bottom towards and below the plastic, but I can't get it in. Can anyone clarify this? (A drawing or sketch would be WONDERFUL....)

I use the software to crop and change the brightness. Sometimes to reduce the file size... And yes - it IS easy to get at the gas tank.

This is what it looks like with the box up. ( I apologize for the picture quality. My regular photo editor no longer works for some strange reason, and I am making do with a bit of freeware software, which I have not quite figured out yet.) These views show the frames. The lower one attaches to the bed mounting points on the frame. The upper one mounts to the bed itself. I should also have mentioned that the gas inlet does not exactly line up, and my bed is back a bit further than it would be for a static mount, as there has to be clearance for the bottom front of the bed to clear the back of the cab when it raises. I agree it would have been better if the bed was level, but since I have no plans to sell it (ever) I'm not overly concerned about it. And given the NAME of the truck..........

As promised, here is my work-in-progress. The box dumps hydraulically. The Ranger box is a good fit as far as width goes. Some cutting around the wheel wells are required. The slight angle it is on is due to a manufacturing error with the dump mechanism. Colour is Canadian military olive drab

Thanks for all of the responses. IT is the AX4, due to the serial number placement.

After checking every manual I own, and on line, I managed to find a serial number on the bottom, so I think it is the AX4. (it had ATF in it, though, which seems to be the wrong stuff)

i have an 86 with the 2.5l four. The tranny is a 4 speed manual. Jeepforums indicate that it could be either an Aislin AX4 or a Borg Warner T4. Since they use different fluids, and I want to change it, the difference may be important. One uses 90 wt gear oil , and one uses Dextron II....

You miss my point(s). You might, as a skilled mechanic, be able to replace the bearing in my diff. You still have to deconstruct half the car to do it. And even you cannot mess with the diff beyond that, as the parts are WELDED together. Sealed wheel bearings which supposedly last a long time, fail at 150000 km. You can't grease them. And have a look at wiki's definition of "quadra-drive". Just a TAD more complicated than a T90 tranny and a Dana 18 transfer case - which has always suited my needs... So I may be dreaming to find a decent daily driver that can be at least partly worked on by a person of my skill level, but I can hope, can't I?

A cursory look suggests to me that the drive train on the wj is quite complicated.....

Looks like the honda passport had some serious rust issues. Not a good sign. The BMW's might be a goer. Especially if I could find a wagon....

Like the MJ. I did not want to run extra wires - I have spent quite a bit of time on it just getting the problems fixed. A changeover is still a good idea, but I have other priority work to do on it first....

Looks like I opened a can of worms here.. :) So WHEN did the cars start only talk to computers? Lets use that as an end point, and limit discussion to cars before that date. Yes, what jobs you can do is a function of skill, but when it costs $4000 CDN to change a diff bearing the design is very flawed (IMO) Civic. Too small for my needs. Subaru. available, I've had them. They are ok, but I have never tried to work on them. XJ. Possible, and since I have an MJ, not totally weird. IF I could find one with a decent body and frame....

I wonder if a larger honda would fit the bill. And what would you think of as "older"? I'm not arguing, mind. You may be on the right track

As I sit here, my 2011 volvo is in a transmission shop getting a new bearing in the differential. This involves removing the rear subframe. The parts are stupid expensive, and this job is going to cost me THOUSANDS. All of the fasteners to the aluminium frame have completely corroded. In talking to my transmission guy, he tells me that the differential (made by Ford) is not meant to be repaired, as the parts are welded together. I have been thinking long and hard on this, and I am seriously considering buying another older car and keeping it as my daily driver. For a LONG time. I find the new cars, with their touch screen technology, actually dangerous to drive. And the cars certainly do not seem to be made to last. So I am looking for input from the group, in hopes of learning from others' experience. 1) When did cars stop being relatively repairable? 2) What brands of car have good parts availability? 3) If you were going to buy a "keeper" and use it year round, what would you get? (Canadian winters, hot summers)