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no my truck and the donar are both renix 4.0s. ill take some pics and show you what I'm talking about exactly. ill post tomarrow.

hey guys, i need a little help. i have 89 jeep comanche 5 speed 2wd. pigeot trans ba10/5 I'm planning on the 4wd conversion, my donar is an 89 jeep xj 4x4 5 speed with the pigeot ba10/5 trans i believe. ive already pulled its trans, transfer case, clutch, flywheel, front axel (d30 with vaccume acuated axel disconnect) and driveshafts. i have already converted the d30s axel shafts with a 96 xjs, with the bigger u joints. ive replaced the u joints and put new axel seals in the hogs head. and put new control arm bushings on it, and painted it up. its ready to go. i just got the transmission out of the donar yesterday, and noticed the shaft on the trans is much different than mine currently on my mj, i know this cause ive recently put a new slave cylinder on it. the shaft on the new trans has thick looking splines on it, and about an inch or so smaller shaft at the end. my dad said its cause the pilot bearings are different. so question is do i need to swap the pilot bearings before the reinstall? ive seen the grease trick to get them out can i just buy a new one for the reinstall? the clutch looked brand new in the donar, which is good cause the ba10/5 clutch is expensive. so ill prob use the clutch i took from the donar. are the slave cylinders the same for the 2wd/4wd cause the slave cylinder was shot in the donar, but mine in my truck currently is only months old, could i just use it? I'm going to clean the new trans up this week, what should i replace on it if anything? seals or whatnot. is my d30 rear in the truck currently the same as the d30 in the 1989 xj donar i got? is there any reason i should swap the rear axel or are they the same. or are they geared differently beings the one in the xj was a 4x4. any thoughts or ideas are greatly accepted, its going to be a few weeks before i do my swap, saving for parts, i plan on lifting it as well when i do it. so right now I'm prepping and cleaning parts i currently have, and making sure i have all the tools and resources needed to get the job done in a weekend. its vital due to its my daily driver and i have nothing else once its down. thanks guys. marcus

ive considered another pegiot, the only one i can find is 150 miles away for 350$ and has unknown miles... and idk about that. i could have mine rebult for a little more than that i imagine.

thanks alot guys. mjanky ill try those things, and the motor mounts may be bad, if u saw the way i had to rock and twist and pull on that transmission to get it out the first time. the shaft had a bit of surface rust on it. but the 2nd time i pulled it, was not too bad.

ok as some of you know ive been having some issues with my pigeot. its stuck in gear and the shifter appears to be in the neutral position, thought the shifting forks were mis aligned, but no luck re aligning wiht a screw driver. anyways, i found a ax15, 2wd trans. to swap my pigeot 2wd trans with. question is, what all do i need to do the swap? the clutch is different right? the slave cylinder? is the flywheel different, or driveshaft? and will the ax15 mount to my crossmember? and info will be great, guy only wants 200$ for the trans.

thats what i did and poked around a bit

thank you for the info. ill work on it some again tomarrow and post what i come up with. yeah that noise concerns me, unless its like half way in a gear or in multiple gears as i have read. that may be that noise.il update tomarrow

aw man, i tried taking a screwdriver and messging around at the shifting forks, i was thinking they misaligned. but i can't make heads or tails of it. I'm just poking around. the clutch was great before the slave cylinder started pouring fluid. i got great clutch pressure now. but its like stuck in gear, and they shifter is like in the neutral position... idk what to do

bump help guys

also by the way guys, the 2nd time i had to pull the trans, me and my buddy pulled it in 38 mins, and the reinstall in about 1 hour. not too bad, just frustrating. and i did take my straps off the slave cylinder before installing. however this time when i bled the clutch, i did 5 slow pumps of the pedal and then cracked the bleeder, and repeated. before i was pumping that pedal fast and hard as $#!& many times, then cracking. idk if that had anything to do with my prior problem or not. but i read u have to be gentle bleeding the system. that clutch is so tight now its will wear you out.

thanks guys for the help, well i re installed a newer, more expensive slave cylinder, and now i hvae great clutch pressure. started the truck to go for a test drive, and heard a clanking noice and rattling bad sounds from the truck, like the started didnt return home and was stuck in the fly wheel or somthing. so i pulled the starter, and it had returned home, and the flywheel and starter teeth looked okay. also the gear shifter appears to be in neutral, but i cannot get it into gear. any gears for that matter. however i noticed i hit the clutch and the truck rolls. and i push on the truck and the fans turning, so its in gear. and i remember when it happened i was turning in the house, down shifted to 2nd, and boom the clutch went out. so i coasted in the driveway in 2nd, so I'm assuming its stuck in 2nd gear now. whats up with that, i re installled the shifter properly, are my shift forks out of alignment? or somthing like that. I'm assuming its bad news...

bump help

okay my clutch went to the floor, and was leaking from the bellhousing. aparently its the internal slave cylinder. so after much cursing, and frustration i pulled the trans and repalced the slave cylinder. the trans is the pigeot ba15 5 speed 2wd got it all put back together and went to bleed the clutch, and its pissing out the bell housing again! i put in the slave cylinder, put a retainer ring on it, where i took the old one off. put everything back together the way it should have been. there was a plastic retainer on the new slave cylinder, which was keeping the new part compressed. i took this off before i installed it, the old one did not have it. put in on the shaft, and everything went well, whats wrong? is there a special way to bleed the thing? my buddy did the same thing, replaced his in his 4 cylinder mj. and his is leaking from the bell housing still also. but he said he forgot to take that plastic retainer off the new part that keeps it compressed. any ideas whats wrong? am i bleeding it wrong? help please its my only vehicle

hey, guys. so i have an 89 comanche 2wd, 5 speed, 4.0 renix. and i have a terrible death wobble. the wobble started -i replaced the track bar, and passenger pitman arm. it stopped for a while death wobble came back few months later, absolutly terrible, every bump it hit. - replaced passenger upper and lower control arm bushings (MOST AGGRIVATING JOB I HAVE EVER DONE) it fixed the death wobble for about 2 weeks Death wobble is back now, but not terrible. every once in a while. my question is, the stock control arms are so wimpy, could this be the problem? they bent some when i removed the old bushings, and i had to kinda of bend them back. are tubular control arms a solution?

I pulled a fuse block off of a HO Cherokee. Idk what year it was 91+ I'm guessing. The fuse block is slightly different in the position of the fuses. But it should still work right?

I replaced both flashers, and the relay. And the fuse, turn signals do not work still. It must be where I pulled my fuse block out to inspect it and a wore may have come loose. Only thing I can think of. Hazards work, running lights work. Everything work but the turn signals

There are only two flashers correct? My hazards work, well funny actually. They don't blink until I start driving then the hazards start blinking.

Also could I jump my relay harness to eliminate the relay?

Sorry guys I know this is a on going post on here. But here goes, I appreciate any help also. Well I took my bed off to paint the truck, trucks looks great! But while the bed was off I drove a few weeks without it. My running lights kept blowing the fuse, so I pulled the fuse block out and Tryed to inspect why, could not find anything. Well I put it back in, and then my turn signals quit on me. Well I get the truck painted and bed back on and I got my ground wire good in the left tail light and that fixed my running light issue. So that's all that was, however still no turn signals. I must have messed them up when I took the fuse block out, and inspecting it. Well I took the flat connector apart and tested for power with the test light, and I'm getting a very dim light from one of the pins in the connector and no others. I'm getting power to my fuses, and I changed my relay, I replaced it with another relay I had, and Tryed a few others I had. Unless a turn signal relay is different from your genuin relay?? Well I'm stumped, I don't think it's the switch cause it worked fine before I painted the truck. Any ideas guys?

Okay, so I've been doing body work and painting my Comanche. And I've got the bed off, with the gas take on some 2x4s ratchet strapped down. The tail lights zip tied on, the head lights zip ties on, cause I took the whole front clip off. Well now my running lights and dash lights fuse is blowing. I out a new one in and it blows when I take off down the road. It must be a bare wire Arking somewhere, or a bad ground somewhere. I got my ground in the back left tail light wedged into the frame, it should be grounded good. All my other lights work, turn signals, etc. I didn't have this problem until I took the bed off, I couldn't find any bare wire spots. Any ideas?

Thank you for that link on tips of tubing and fixing things

Haha very true she's old. And yes my master cylinder has leaked brake fluid down my clutch pedal onto the fuse box, and the fuse box is not very pretty. And I don't like that at all. I need to address that leak issue, or some how keep that fluid off the fuse panel. It's rusted my brake light switch on the brake pedal, I'm surprised it even works. And I have vinal flooring, I have never pulled up, but I hope there is no rust under there, the truck is very solid. No rust anywhere. But I may do some exploring, yet it scares me to mess with it since she's acting right

Well that had nothing to do with my truck acting up, And the lights dimming. And it spuddering then... What in the world did I do to fix it I wonder? I rotated the hazard flasher fuse "round one" pulled every other fuse, and put back in... And she started running right again. I'm just trying to figure out what I did or why it did it. What fuse would be associated with the altinator or have to do with headlights, dash lights dimming. And it acting as if the battery was dead

What's the "hazard flasher" why would this have caused my lights to go dim, and make the truck not crank as if the battery was dead

Oh duh I see, I just need to rotate the diagram