groghunter

Finally got time + weather to line up on this, get out to the truck & give it a go. no help though, sadly: 12 55. So yea, I disconnected the battery within the last 50 keys cycles, obviously.

That's the question, right? Coil seems to be testing good, I put a test light inline on one of the spark plugs & it seemed to flash like you would expect, but I couldn't get visible spark when I pulled a plug & tried to ground it. but I'm not confident at all that I didn't cause that myself by not doing it correctly. I've never tried to test for spark that way before, so if there's a "knack" to it, I don't have it.

For the more "Important" sensors, like the CPS, O2, MAP, VSS, Sync; anything that can cause a no-start, or no-run / crappy run condition I always use NOS Mopar. Since they last 15-20 years originally I'll stick with NOS Mopar if I can find them. But that's just me. :thumbsup: You really need to check your fault codes too. Of course everything doesn't show up, but most problems do. The HO OBD1 system isn't like a Renix where you can test most all the sensors with a multimeter or other common test equipment. Gotcha. I'll give those ODB1 Procedures another try.

One thing I've not been clear on with the CPS replacements is if it's really only Mopar ones that are worthwile, or if you just shouldn't buy a cheap one. I got the more expensive one that NAPA sells, supposedly "US made" figured it was at least a better bet than a cheapy, but are those a problem as well?

I tried the fault codes thing yesterday, didn't see any flashing. maybe I did it wrong, I intend to doublecheck tonight or this weekend. Don't have a fuel pressure gauge. I was treating this as a likely electrical issue, based on the fuel spurt at the rail, & the lack of coughing. I do get raw fuel odor at the tailpipe after cranking for a bit. Do you ask out of suspicion that it is a fuel issue, or just to check all the bases?

'91, 2.5 'manche. Problem started with engine being a bit temperamental to start: I'd have to crank it for a few mins when it had been sitting. after it had run for a while, it would start easily 90% of the time. Progressed to coughing when loaded, specifically when I would downshift to engine brake, progressed from there to dying when loaded. Took 10 mins to start from there, got it home. Since then, it hasn't started once. It's probably easier to list the things I've already done: new wires, plugs, rotor, cap cps was only a month old when this started, shows proper AC voltage when multimetered & engine is cranked. Even still, took it off & ground the mounting holes deeper, still no luck put a multi-meter between the coil & gnd: seems like it's doing what it should, saw as much as 17v once. may be an artifact of my old digital meter, it was having trouble refreshing quickly enough, but I definitely saw consistent voltage spikes. Refreshed grounding terminations with new ring terminals, removed the old stock battery terminals & ring terminated those wire ends too, & put new wingnut style battery terminals on I get fuel spurt if I push the valve on the fuel rail after cranking. It doesn't ever cough & try to start. it just cranks. So, any ideas?

Hey all, posted a few weeks ago about the new 'manche I've been working on. Had to replace the clutch slave (& since it's an internal one, the clutch as well.) Well, I got everything back together, but it won't start. By which, I mean it did start a couple of times: enough for me to figure out that the clutch hadn't been bled well enough, as there was grinding if I tried to get it in gear. Re-bled, clutch now seems to be good. but It just will not start now. It cranks, but it never "coughs" if you take my meaning. Even when it did start the first few times, it was really touchy, died when I touched the throttle pedal at least once. seemed to do alright once it had warmed up a bit though(just wouldn't go into gear.) So, my first thought, especially since as far a clutch replacements go, this IS my first rodeo, is "what did I change." I've gone through it all in my head, & the only things I can think of, that have anything to do with the motor starting, are: the starter, but as I said, it is cranking, and: I took the CPS & flywheel off. As I understand, you can't install the flywheeel wrong, so that leaves the CPS: is it even possible to put it on wrong? seems like I remember it having an obvious direction to it, but thought I'd ask before I delve into "is it getting fuel?" & "Is it getting spark?" Also, I'm sitting at work unable to start looking at the thing, & figure I might as well ask some questions so I'm better informed when I do get to it. Oh, & I took the battery to 2 places today, & they both tested it as good(& Batteries plus has a big bench tester, not a handheld.) I was actually assuming the battery wasn't putting out the amps to get the thing to turn over, myself.

2.5L, AX 5. base as base can be: manual everything, short bed, 2WD, etc. Even if I had to pull the pan, small price to pay for an Arizona truck. The metal may not have the rust problems others have, but every piece of rubber on this thing is suspect until replaced, our climate doesn't treat it well. Second job I have in mind for this sucker after I get this job done is to go through every single vacuum hose & replace them all. I get the desire to switch to external slave, but for my desires of just getting it back on the road first & foremost, I'll just go with the current setup. Sure an external slave is technically better, but at the same time, this slave lasted 90,000 miles, & I'm unlikely to put that many miles on this in 20 years(though I will check that the assembly fits the internals correctly, as I did read the thread about the plastic throwouts replacing the metal ones causing problems because of improper sizing.)

Should have known better than to think the bell housing would come off easy... turns out I'm in for the PB blaster & wait-ing game...

Hey all, first time posting here. just got a '91 MJ base from a buddy, everything works well on it except for the clutch. We debated on whether it was the slave or the clutch itself, but the difference is academic: you're dropping the transmission & buying a clutch kit either way. So I'm in the process of doing that. Not a job I've done before, but this isn't my daily driver, so I've got leisure to go slow. I'll hopefully finish dropping the transmission today. So, to get to the point: A buddy mentioned that I should replace the rear main seal while I've got the transmission off. After looking at where those are located, what they cost, & the minimal labor involved, boy, I'd have been kicking myself if I didn't go ahead & do that. So, does anybody have advice on any other parts that fall under that category? Cheap, easy, but hard to get to unless you're dropping the transmission?