dcramer67

I am going to get some sand, or a bunch of dirt to weigh the @$$ end down. However, if that doesn't work for some reason, is there anything else I can do?

Haha! I don't know if they will be able to jump that high...

I got them from General Spring. Standard duty.

So, I recently got new leaf packs for the rear of my MJ. The old ones must have been pretty saggy because my rear end is now 2.5 - 3 inches higher. How can I lower the rear some without removing leafs? I have had the new ones for about a month, so I think the initial settling of the leafs should be done. I am already lifted ~6 - 6.5 inches in the front, so I don't want to lift it any higher if I don't have to.

Does anyone see anything wrong that sticks out? 1987 MJ, 4.0 Automatic, 91 or 92 HO 4x4 Swap, SYE, C8.25 SOA.

I am getting really bad death wobble, but it is only happening around 25-30 mph after I hit a pothole or large bump in the road. What would be causing it to happen only after an impact like that? 1987 MJ, 4.0 Automatic, 91 or 92 HO 4x4 Swap, SYE, C8.25 SOA.

I just ordered some from General Spring. How long did it take for them to deliver?

I ordered the relocation brackets. Hopefully that helps the geometry some. Yes, the IRO is basically a radius arm with only one upper. I am not sure why they only use one uppper (more flex?), but I bought the truck with that kit, so I don't know all that much about it.

Where is the best place to buy stock height leaf springs? I am SOA so I don't want any more lift. I thought about upgrading to the metric tons from hellscreek but that will stiffen up the ride quite a bit. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I have the iro long arm kit. It only connects to the upper control arm bracket on the driver side. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I think those relocation brackets should work. Thanks! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

My sway bar is rubbing the coil on the passenger side. Do my coils need to be more narrow, or is something bent or off? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I would also like to just thank everyone here for their help and input! You guys are awesome.

I used that VIN decoder (1JTMW6416HT191051). The jeep is an 87, but was also originally 2WD. It definitely has had a motor swap. I will have to see if I can find another VIN on the motor, and see what year it came out of. I store it in my Dad's garage since I do not have the space here at my house. I will look into this a lot more over the weekend.

The doors are not factory. It has the 97+ style doors. The title I have says it is an 87, but there is a good possibility a swap was done. Here is a photo of the engine compartment...anything you see proving it was swapped? Or will I have to look at something else? I checked for burnt wires and everything seems to be in good shape. I tried starting it with that jumper wire removed, and it wouldn't turn over or anything. Is that fuse/relay actually for the starter somehow?

How can I tell for sure if they did a swap? The only other jeep I've had was a 96 zj so I'm not familiar with renix.

It's all good :) If memory serves correctly, that 60A maxi fuse should actually be a 20A anyway right? So something was definitely going on with the fuel pump.

By "OP" (original poster), do you mean me? I am not the one who ran the jumper wire, or have done any of the wiring on this vehicle. That is why I am asking these questions. Looking through stuff, it seems there is a bunch of jerry rigged wiring, and I am not sure where to start with making things correct. When my jeep wouldn't start and I couldn't hear the fuel pump click on, I first checked the fuse box. This was the first time I opened the fuse box up, and that is when I saw the jumper wire. I will check the fuse box tomorrow and make sure nothing is burnt up/melted.

Can anyone tell me why the PO might have put in this jumper wire between the fuel pump relay and fuse? Also, whenever I turn the key over, I get a high pitched whining noise coming from this box next to the air filter box. What could be causing that?

http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=3896750 These guys make a kit to reinforce the "frame" the whole way from front to rear. They also sell it in sections.

So I have the transmissions out of my MJ and my parts XJ, and I just haven't had time to mess around with it and install the "new" tranny. What seals and other stuff should I replace since the trans is out?

Thanks Everyone! I didn't get to do it this weekend because of the weather, but hopefully next.

So I got a an '87 MJ 4.0 4x4. The transfer case needs replaced/rebuilt, but I have a '96 parts XJ that I figured I can just take out the tranny and tcase. Both have a lot less miles than what is currently on my MJ. I was looking at the "Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About the AW4" post and it says 1990.5 - 96 are bolt in. Is there any thing with the electronics that I am going to have to change out as well? Also, any other tips are appreciated. This will definitely be my biggest vehicle project I've ever done, but I will give it a whirl, hopefully this weekend.

Yeah it's definitely in 8.25. I found the Chrysler Badge. What is the proper perch spacing? When looking at it, it looks like everything lines up as it should. I also think they are aftermarket spring perches. Aren't the bottom of the shocks normally mounted under the axle in stock form?

I will have to look for the insignia tomorrow after I get off work. The other thing I noticed though was the squarish lip on the bottom that I thought 8.25's had but d35's didn't.