Bruski

Ideally in need of a long bed pickup box for my very rusty Michigan '87 Comanche Laredo. And/or sheet metal equivalent. Will consider buying an entire vehicle. There was a box recently offered in Ohio for $300 (Obo) that I couldn't connect on. So still looking. Thanks for looking Dave Bruski Posen, MI bruskidave@gmail.com

In need of a long bed for my '87 Comanche Laredo. Like most rust-belt comanches mine is about to rust right off the frame. Can pick up with my trailer. Bruski send photo(s) to bruskidave@gmail.com Sun. January 5th 2014

Cruiser: You replied to an early Dec post of mine regarding my '87 Laredo that occassionally stops running (starts up again cold). You suggested a possible crankcase position sensor. Haven't gotten around to replacing it because of location (in)accessability and early winter cold in Michigan. I noticed this pic on another post. Might this be what it is? Thanks, Bruski

Well, the electrical gremlins on my '87 4.0 4WD Laredo still exist. I lived with some of the inconvenience for awhile. Not that winter has set in to northern Michigan, I have to address them. My windshileld wipers wouldn't work. 'Laredo Larry' must have watched me remove the wiper motor off my 'in-the-woods- parts 'Manche as they now work wiithout me having actually done anything (except some cussin'). Now the heater fan blower works intermittenly. On to second (un)related? problem. Truck motor stops running. This occurs when idling but once failed to start from the git-go. Starter turns motor but no start. Then when I come back the next day, it fires up AND . . . . the heater blower motor works for a short while. Research inclines me to that CPS switch. I will replace that first. Then maybe that electronic module that connects to the distributor? I'm working on refreshing the grounds. Anyone 'been there, done that'? I hate just randomly replacing parts. David Bruski bruskidave@gmail.com Mon. Dec 2nd

After driving my '87 4.0 4WD comanche for a period of time (usually about 20-30 mintues) it begins skipping a beat (hiccups quickly, but momentarily) but always stays running. This transient abnormality will occur maybe every couple of minutes or so. No consistent pattern except that it runs fine for awhile and then develops the 'miss'. I checked plug wire connections, etc . . . the usually. It more like an ignition miss (on all cylinders) rather than just one, as opposed to dirty fuel filter. I suspect heat has some influence, mean after the vehicle runs warm for a while. Everything else normal in the way operating guage ranges. Anyone have similar experience or my have potential fixs? Bruski

I finally got my neighbor to part with his '87 4WD Laredo. Plenty of Michigan rust but nice Meyers snow plow. You'all know the story "a little of lady just used it to plow her way to church on Sunday". So it got to the point where transfer case shifter wouldn't come up. So the local trans shop disconnected the mechanical linkage, put in in 4WD in winter and 2WD as snow melt. This was done underneath. So my question is: why can't I get the transfer case handle to move from 2W high to 4W hig? It seems like there is an interlock to the auto trans shifter (as there should be to allow shifting in a forward gear). Mechanical linkage is disconnected underneath, I can put key on to move trans shifter lever to a drive selection but transfer case handle will not move to 4W high. I can drive the vehicle forward but still can get the handle to move. I've ruled out rust binder with WD40 , etc. How does the interlock unlock the transfer case handle? What is my missing piece to this puzzle Bruski 3/26/PM

Anyone out there have or know where to resource an electrical diagram for thd '87 4cylinder I dragged home? (Chilton's only shows lighting and such). Pickup has been sitting for about four years. Runs good on atomized gas sprayed above the throttle body but quits on it's own. (Yes, it has plenty of gas in the tank). I pulled the fuel filter downstream of the tank. No obstructions. I had the neighbor lady turn the motor with the starter and I observed no gas spurting from the open line. (For her assistance, I committed to helping here rearrange her bedroom furniture :) Volt meter shows 7 volts at the 3-pin connector. Should it not have 12 volts there to pump? I'm thinking about applying 12 volts to the connector but don't know which wires to connect to. On the tank side the larger of the wires is a yellowish from age-White, a middle purple and a black. On the power side the white connects to an orange, the middle purple connects to a (thin) white and the black connects to black. I want to confirm it is the fuel pump before removing it. Help please. Windancer in Michigan Aug 24th 09 PM

Fellas: I recently acquired an '86 Commanche with a 4CYL motor and 3-speed manual trans. It had been sitting and not run for about five years. I changed oil, removed spark plugs and injected a bit of oil into the cylinders. With plugs not tightened I turned the motor over to lube up the dry walls. Turned easy without compression. I buttoned up and cranked again. Motor would fire and run only with eyther above the throttle body. No eyther, no run. I didn't continue that process very long as I know it's not good for motor to run on eyther. First suspect the fuel pump. Have 12 volts at tank going in. Before I do the lengthy and difficult task of changing the fuel pump in the tank, is there anything else I should check? Should I expect any sound from an operable fuel pump. Past experience on other vehicles lends to some others clicking and/or buzzing momentarily when power applied. I did see previous post here on ballast resistor on inner fender. Don't know if it applies to this truck confirguration. Anybody comment on the task of changing the existing fuel pump? Anybody know the fuel pressure required? I thought of buying an aux pump and installing in-line but those are only 4-6 PSI. I doubt that is enough for a throttle body. Any advice / suggestions appreciated. Windancer in Michigan Aug 7th 09