DayriesW

Actually all the places I've now talked to can't get them. Hmmm

found and ordered. autozone stocks them and I will have mine in the next day or two. They also confirmed it has no baffles within.

I have the spectra JP5B tank and Airtec E7091S pump assembly

I know the video is for a 89 cherokee but the installation oft he pump (around 12 minutes) makes this look sure simple. My baffle pan inside the tank is on the other side and the lower part of the pump itself appears to be hitting the baffles edge when I try to install it.

I have a new fuel pump and tank for my 87 MJ. I tried installing the new assembly but keep hitting the small metal pan inside. Is there a trick or tip yall could tell me about to get this done? I don't want to force it and break something. Thanks.

New bushing up on the right side. Cheaper than the bearing that didn't fit. After I removed the washer fluid tank, I was able to remove the old clutch reservoir since the new 6 speed master/slave comes preblead. Old and new. The new one lacks a plunger so..? The new master is longer and has offset bolts so I'll be drilling the firewall after the plunger is figured out. I need to remove the brake booster and all to route the new lines to the slave and it will make it easier to drill out the firewall. Plus I needed a reason to upgrade the brakes... Hopefully a dodge 2500 system will fit and will be enough to stop the larger setup.

Moved the transmission into place behind the engine and couldn't bolted in place. Removed the old clutch and eventually the pilot bearing which for the 87 appeared to just be a smooth piece of metal. http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/dayriesw/MJ%202016/A56AB7E2-C3B2-4394-8BFF-A1662169691F_zpsnwxajfnm.jpg[/img] Top to bottoms pilot bearings: new 05, the installed 87 and new 87. http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/dayriesw/MJ%202016/E2F9BD6A-DA1B-4267-82BD-1D299B8F166D_zps8glmuxxm.jpg[/img] I think I'll get the flywheel off the motor and maybe get it machined to fit with the 05 pilot bearing. I pressed the 05 one out of the sleeve it came installed in and it is .1" thinner then the old brass looking one. I decided that this is about how to make the crossmember. http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/dayriesw/MJ%202016/0E5C5635-4D23-4C78-A522-DA47123A5289_zps9sjygh9z.jpg[/img] I build the back two frame mounts and welded them in. http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/dayriesw/MJ%202016/0B9D2F09-233A-4C95-84F3-E82A3BB16892_zpsrbtjcvdq.jpg[/img] http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae138/dayriesw/MJ%202016/E3F7971B-86FB-43F7-A4D2-178DE4D2CD5D_zps0riasmoa.jpg[/img]

Finally worked up to this... BM-10/5 CPS (sensor) to NSG370 fitting. This part of the demo is brought to you by Pizza. I made a template and transferred over the bolt hole measurements. After I drilled to two sensor mounts, I tapped them Then I used a bunch of different stuff to make the same hole on this case as the other. Measure twice then cut, sand and remeasure I will get the new sensor tomorrow but here is how it looks now

I am swapping out the old 5 speed for a 6 speed. Can you help me figure out what I need to keep and not? I have found a few people who did this and one is saying to reuse all the remix stuff but swap it over to the 6 speed. Bm 6 speed Bm CPS I believe 6 speed. If there is a write up, let me know. Thanks guys.

Finally got that fn(king upper trans bolt out. An inverted torx with a rusted head... I ended up just cutting it off and there is enough stud to put some vice grips on to removed. The next plan to get the newer trans to talk to another one is what AW12345 suggested that his friend did in his YJ I believe. Basically cutting the bell housing off around the 2 bolts (at the 10 oclock position and the bolt I cut the head off), the bolting it to the newer trans and tracing the template. Then cut and mount the old sensor and all there. I am told I can't use a sensor for the new nsg370 since it won't talk to the 87 computer, so we have to go the other way. After I removed it all, I cleaned up and reorganized. And had a beer.

Front axle

What shop? Haha. I wish that was ride height. That is about an 1 or so from bump and hopefully about 3" below ride height. I will still have to trim but that was expected. Removed the stock starter, anti sway bar, steering box and part of the bolt on trackbar. I'm getting ready for the frame plate which are coming in next week. Depending on how it all works out, I'm thinking about using ballistic adjustable frame coil mounts and ruff stuff specialities' 3 link kit. I think if it works out a JK forward steering box. I have a TJ specific front antirock too. It will go on the axle or be used for the 8274 mount maybe, just depends on space.

Rolled the 37s in front. Low riding mini truck.

Mine too now. Body will sit about 2" higher when the wheel and tires are mounted. This is if I were to run some wheel spacers so the wheels will be a bit more inboard than this. I need to order some wheels...

I had to reattach the rear axle to free up a jackstand to pull the trans and transfer case. The rear axle is just double coated with primer for now. Looks like I only lost about 1.5-2" of wheelbase based on eye balling it on the bed side opening. Started with this. I took all this out and the 231 linkage and shifter for the BM. I remove some of the trans mounting bolts but couldn't get them all out. I've never seen a mechanical speedo gear. According to Novak, I have to reuse the tail housing that stores this and reinstall on the D300

Here's some more progress. My buddy, the previous owner weldered the brackets to the housing. He also donated a ran over box to the pick up. It will need some hammer love but should work well for holding the stock tank after a little modifications and fits below the bedrail.

We will see soon enough once it is on the trail... one day

Thanks guys, I kinda feel like I am going slow honestly. I hope to have to rear all bolted up and hopefully painted soon. I have a clutch and pressure plate on the way along with a flip ring for the 300. So I guess I'll mount the drivetrain and hopefully the seats soon.

The only thing I'd change is adding about 10" to the cab for looks. I think a 10" bob on a short be is about perfect looks wise and for the wheelbase, it will be perfect for where I wheel which is why I'm building this one anyways. I threw the tank in the bed this weekend to guess about placement and the bed will be quite small after it is installed. It will be just big enough for the camping, junk and spare/tools I carry so it will be fine.

Moving along. Hung the rear axle and tacked it all together with the chassis unlimited u bolt eliminator kit. Clean the axles of mounts (old leaf mounts were 1/2" to inboard to reuse form a soa yj). Bolted it all up with the leafs, then tacked on the triangle pieces to seat the axle. I order the kit with a 1.5" stretch so it offset the mount back some (you can see in the third picture). Hopefully I can get it all welded together and loose the rear drums soon.

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Fitted with the bed on The frame looked like this when through. Lots of reinforment and not great looking welds but it is coming along. Then, I realized the leafs needed a little messaging and I wanted to more the front stationary points forward to work with the rear movement. To my surprise, the mounts were just tacked on (factory). So I drilled them and moved them forward and reused them. And this is my workshop. Here it has a 2001 grill on it, which is the 2nd grill it has had since i bought it.

Then the bed needed to come off so we could figure out the back part of the frame. In shorting the bed, I lost the last set of bed support/bolt points. Pretty clean underside of bed (that is what happens when it sits for half it's life I guess. Clean frame rails Found some rust on the end tips of the frame. That had to go. This is what I ended up going with. The frame end is about 5-7" shorter than the stock frame I ended up cutting it back a little more before finally mounting it all. Those are not stock spring but are what I am guessing as full sized truck rear leaf springs. They measure 52" from eye to eye and were on the truck when I bought it. They were set up for soa on the stock 44 but never bolted or welded down (perches).

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I am starting a build on my 87/88 Comache Chief I picked up for cheap about a year ago ~ summer of 2015. I bought it from a friend who bought it from a jeep hoarder.... seriously a junkyard of 10 + CJs, cherokees and this little gem. Facts I knew when I bought it: odometer read 57k interior was very nice no title but not stolen the stock axles werent getting reused due to booty fab..... rear and front appeared to be wrecked gas tank was not working at all but we fired it off with ether once I love this thing's profile! As of now, this is how it sits with my LJ. Ill fill in the work with pictures soon but so far I have done: bobbed the bed 10" and frame 14" or so added leaf sliders in rear moved the front mounts fro rear leafs forward about 4" started swapping in 01 XJ seats tried to run a XJ gas tank, ended up just firing the engine on ether again And the final drive train will be: 1987 4.0L 2005 NSG 370 6 speed 80s D300 - twin sticked 80s wagoneer 44s with ox lockers, 5.13s, warn hubs and chromo shafts 37s crawl ratio of 1:59.5 at first and 1:90 with 4:1 gears in the t case. Probably a forward facing steering box like a JK one. Rear springs are chevy 52" and the front will get a 3 link + panhard. Some ideas I am looking at: dual brake system for cutting brakes, relocating the radiator to the bed so I can run a hidden upright warn winch, XJ gas tank in bed. More to come soon.