Sir Jacob the 2nd

It is running and driving with no current issues, I'm more looking at the options as preventative measure. I would obviously like to avoid fires, hence my contemplation of replacement, thank you for the info and advice. Pardon my ignorance but c101?

Has anyone done a complete re-wire in their engine compartment? Mine is a mess and there a quite a few wires with their coating worn through and connectors that go to nothing (it is quite possible that they are supposed to, however I've checked everything I thought they could belong to with no avail) so I just would like to hear from some of you who may have also had to do this.

Okay thanks. I just can't leave the whole the pulled apart not running while I wait on the core. It took a little over a week for the first one to get here and there were no options to accelerate the shipping process.

Alright that's what I figured I just didn't want to screw up the brand new compressor I bought. Thanks

That is great information! Bad news for me lol but good info. I'm pretty sure I also have the wrong evap core and there isn't a junk yard within 100 miles of me that has any Cherokee's from the years '86-'98... Disheartening of course because I will have to ship back the one I have and order the proper one. While on the topic, I have my whole original AC system pulled out, will it cause any damage to the new compressor( not hooked up to anything but the mount and the belt) to run the truck without the rest of the system hooked up until I receive the proper core? Like I said I don't know a lot about AC components

I don't know that the orientation of the coils does matter, as long as it is the correct dimensions and connections... Don't quote me on that though, I'm not an "AC guy" as it were. I'd be interested to hear someone else's input

There were two different AC options one was factory AC and the other I believe was American air

I have one already but I'm not sure that it's the right one... I haven't pulled it apart and test fit it yet. Try teamcherokee.com

Awesome, I will definitely be attempting the second write up first since I have no real desire to deal with all that electrical on the other side of the dash at the moment haha

That was a great help thanks!

I need to get into the dash to replace the heater core and evap core (leaking), I have a couple questions: First, just want to make sure it is completely necessary to remove the ENTIRE dash to get to these... Would love to avoid it but I fear that is not an option. Second, does anyone have or know of a video or step by step instructions on removal? I don't want to break or damage anything as parts, especially interior parts, are few and far between where I live. And third, I would love to hear any tips you guys have for this project. Thanks

Awesome, thanks for the help!

Do you have any idea what sort of volume my reservoir would need to be able to hold? Also where did you get the cover for you engine compartment fuse box

It's already been swapped out and the radiator that I just pulled out is in bad shape. I appreciate the suggestion! Definitely would've been my choice if It was going to be possible, didn't think of that, thanks!

The guy in this video addresses the fan switch issue but it's in the second video. The first video is the conversion from the start! Check it out

We'll the original reason I even started this project was because I bought this truck about 3 weeks ago and the more I dig into the truck the more things I find that the previous owner did wrong... IE: the Cooling system. They swapped out the radiator with an open radiator I believe from a 94 cherokee. However, they left the original pressure bottle... All they did was cap the bottom hose going to the heater and the bottle was no longer connected to the heater valve... The whole thing was a MESS basically and not done properly. I am going to be eliminating the heater control valve unless I can find a reason not to other than AC doors being stuck open. So I bought 3ft of 3/4 heater hose 3ft of 5/8 heater hose Around 6ft of 5/16 fuel hose (for the overflow bottle) I am buying a new 195degree thermostat Two hose adapters for 3/4 to 5/8 hose...(this is because in order to not reverse the flow through the heater core the 3/4 hose goes the the 5/8 on the heater core and vise versa.) Since I am eliminating the heater control valve I had to cap the vacuum line to the valve so I got a pack of 1/8 inch vacuum line caps. And I need to buy a new radiator so I'm going to buy one from teamcherokee.com. But those radiators I believe don't have the port for the sensor that turns on the auxiliary fan... Still trying to figure that out. I'll keep you posted Still looking for a bottle as you see in my previous post^^

No worries, has anyone given any thought to using an aluminum coolant bottle? Once. The original mounting bracket has been removed, there should be plenty of room for one. Although I'm not sure about capacity, I think it holds 800ml... Does anyone know if that would be sufficient or would I need something larger. Once again It WON'T be the original closed system.

It was direct fit? And is it cheaply made or does it seem like it will last a while?

Yeah the 4.0 bottle. Okay thanks I'll look into that. I'm having a hard time finding any parts where I live, so I may just have to make whatever I can find work.

Was it difficult to get it to fit in properly? I know I have some vacuum lines laying against the inner fender I just want to be careful not to pinch them.

Awesome thanks!

Is There Any Reason I Can't Use The Coolant Reservoir From The 2.5 Comanche In My 4.0 Comanche After It Has Been Converted To An Open Cooling System? I'm Curious Because I Obviously Cannot Keep Or Use The OEM Bottle and I'm not particularly thrilled with the idea of trying to make a bottle from a more recent year fit. On another note, care to weigh in on eliminating the heater control valve?