Worlds Fastest Comanche

Try posting on the HESCO message board, a thread is already started for the SCCA trucks.

A bunch of pics of SCCA Comanche's can be found here http://mwphoto-misc.smugmug.com/Cars/SCCA-Racetruck-Challenge/1988-NIAGARA-FALLS-SCCA-RACE/2606062_nvihS

For the Bonneville truck we used a manual box from a Wrangler, not sure of the ratio. The factory box had tapped holes, ( i think) and the manual box had through holes, so we had to put nuts on the bolts to hold it in. Actually i think the best way to go would be to install one of the Mustang II front suspension kits designed for street rods. The did a segment on Trucks! weekend before last. The installed it into a 1949 chevy pickup. This would allow you to really lower the truck and get rack and pinion steering as well.

Ok last week i posted the drag comanche, this week i found a picture of the 1987 Thunderchief. Here it is Image Not Found The other item tha =has come up, is that their seem to be some interest in running Comanches in SCCA events. Since they are registered as a SCCA vehicle ( the only jeep that is) you can race them. On the Strokers site, A guy says he is building one and hopes to have it done by January. While most people are lifting their MJs, for SCCa competition you really need to lower it. Not many articles here on that, but since most of the MJs produced were 2WD, perhaps their would be an interedt in threads on making a lowered sport truck.

OK Bob did build an early stroker, but that is not what is in his race truck. Here are some details 8 or 9 years ago ( when Bob did hid first stroker) Only Hesco and Clifford were producing strokers, and they charged about $7,500 for them. The details on how to do it were not widely known. Bob experimented on his own and made one for about $2,000. It is still running and has about 75,000 miles on it now. But back to the drag truck, a basically stock comanche that runs in the 12's is impressive.

Bob Salemi, Forestdale, R.I., runs a '92 Jeep Comanche in a stock class in the IRHA He just set a new record with a , 12.95 ET , 100.19mph top speed in the quater mile. This is runnig a 4.0L I am trying to get more details and pictures. Thought you guys might be interisted.

Keep reading

I posted the story about the trip to Bonneville on the Strokers forum. Here is a link http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1408

Where' the pictures of your stuff?

Don't think that is going to happen, the truck has to go through tech inspection, and even if somthing did fail the truck has a full roll cage and 5 point harness etc. I streamliner last year had a problem and rolled at 280 mph and the driver walked away with minor injuries.

Weight is not an issue, we will probably add 500lbs of ballast. We have 2 miles to get up to speed and then we go in a straight line. Wind resistance is the problem, not weight.

Not Kidding, We took two pieces of 2" channel iron, drilled about 3 holes in each one on the flat surface. It is important that the holes do not line up. then we put the two flat surfaces together had plug welded them. we ended up with something that looks like an I beam from the end. The open side of the channels serve to align the tubes. When we were done we added 1/4" plate from the knuckle down to the lower tube and on the other end from to open end of the tube down to the original axle tube. It is very strong. We ended up using 250 lb/inch GM rear coil springs which were about the same rate as the jeep springs but shorter. I did have to make a new track bar.

Here is a pieture on how we lowered the front axle. we used stock car springs which were much shorter In the rear we did a 4 link, i don't have a picture but I will take some. Here is the projected HP vs stock.

OK here you go. Here are some pictures of the intake

Try this link http://www.inliners.org/Jack/T5tech.html I would suggest a mustang trans with a S10 tailshaft. If you search falcon t5 swap you will find alot of articles on the subject. The H.A.M.B (hokey @$$ message board) has allot of info. Pete

The trasmission will have the cobra Mustang internals. which use carbon fiber syncros. The S10 trans used Bornze syncros. All of the WC units use the fiber syncros.

The big problem was the requirement for an explosion proof bellhousing, I needed a trans that would bolt to the lakewood. A built T5 can handle 600 hp, I don't think the AX15 can do that. http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp Here is the expected HP and Torque vs a stock HO 1999 motor.

I really don,t know where to start, but here goes. For the Bonneville comanche i have to run a manual 5 speed trans and an explosion proof bellhousing. The bellhousings only come with the chevy/ t10 bolt pattern on them. I could use some kind of chevy to jeep trans adapter to match up any number of transmissions. My first thought was to use a TKO600 ( The truck is 2wd like most MJs) The trans alone was $2,200, and it was another $400.00 for a shifter relocation kit. It would be bulletproof with a rating of 600 ft/lbs. It would also bolt directly to the bellhousing. $2,600.00 was kind of out of the budget, so I started looking at cheaper solutions. I had purchased a World Class T5 from a Firebird several months ago, but found out it had the wrong OD gear and wrong shifter location, and the wrong bolt pattern to the bellhousing. Other than that it was fine. First let me explain, t5 were originally used in amc cars and Jeeps from 80-85. These first units were NWC( Non World Class) and rated for about 240 ft/lbs of torque. These transmissions had a Ford bolt pattern. around the same time GM started to use the T5 in the S10 and F body cars and even the astro vans. These transmissions were also NWC but had the standard chevy bolt patten and input shaft. Ford also started to use the T5 in the Mustang, and in 85 introduced the WC ( World Class) version. these transmissions were rated at around 300ft/lbs of torque. around 1988 GM started to put the WC version into the Camaro, but kept the NWC in the S10 until 92. In 1992 GM also changed to the Ford bolt pattern and input shaft and went to an electronic spedometer but they were world class units. They came with many different gear ratios. If you want to know what is in one of these , find the metal tag. It will have a number starting with 1352 or 13-52 then a 3 digit number like 221. you can take this number and look up what the trans is on a sitle like this, http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm So back to my story, i start calling around to different places that work on these. Because they have been used in the Mustags forever, many parts are available and allot people do upgrades. here are the top 3 : http://www.astroperformance.com/ http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp Astro was finally able to help me out. he found a 92 s10 world class case with the Chevy pattern (very rare), and had a 26 spline input from a 88-91 Camaro. He will be installing a Mustang Cobra gearset rated for 350 ft/lbs and a .8 OD that he makes himself that will handle 450 ft/lbs of torque. This will bolt directly to the bellhousing and have the shifter in the correct location. The only downside ids the electronic spedo output. This custom built trans will cost me $1,500.00 , $1,100.00 cheaper than the TKO600. But the reason I Am posting here, is that it occured to me that the Mustang WC t5 would not be a bad trans for a MJ. they are available for a few hunderd bucks and are reasonably strong. The problem is that the shifter is in the wrong location. A s10 tailshaft can be swapped in which will locate the shifter correctly but you have to so some work to relocate the spedo gear. The 85-90 mustang used a mechanical spedo. You could also use a 92 and up S10 WC trans, ( low first gear) they have an electronic spedo output. You will need a bellhousing. a Jeep T4 or T5 bellhousing will work. If you can't find one used, they are available new https://www.fortec4x4.com/product.php?productid=2853 for about $250. If you are really looking for a challange, you could swap in a S10 4wd trans and transfer case. Allot cheaper than the jeep stuff.

Well, i was having problems with the fittings in the block below the master cylinder, the one that turns on the brake warning light. I took it off and found that they have 2 brake lines going to the rear. They go to the Proportioning valve in the frame, that has a link down to the axle. My block was full of rust, and since i have a race truck i have no need for a valve in the back. I found a new block and adjustable valve assembly with a switch at summit racing. Price was a little steep at $115.00. I will just run one line back to the axle and adjust the valve manually. By the way, on a comanche i purchased some years ago, the brake line to the rear failed in a panic stop situation. My son slammed on the brakes and the line split because it was so rusted. he ended up rear ending a guy. All our trucks are 15-20 years old or so. It is a good idea to check and/or replace the brake lines. If you live in a state where it snows and they put salt on the roads, even more important.

Actually i found a problem with the writeup i linked to. The one adapter fitting specified, #7936 is a M10 x 1 thread. 3/16 brake tubing has a 3/8 x 24 thread, M10 is slightly bigger than 3/8 and a 1.0 metric pitch is a little more fine than 24 tpi ( 25.4 tpi actually). The correct fitting part # is 7974. These are all weatherhead part numbers. The list should read as follows: #7974 3/16 to M12 x1 adapter Edelmann # 265000 #7909 3/16 to 5/16 adapter Edelmann # 258350 #7818 3/16 to 1/4 adapter Edelmann # 258340 #1442 3/16 to M10 x1 adapter Edelmann # 271300

I did a little more research, the newer booster needs a 1/4" spacer between the firewall and the booster for the brake pedal to be the correct height. You can get them from a later XJ in the boneyard or make one yourself.

I have seen a few articles on this, but i ran across this thread, and this seem to be the best and easiest upgrade. I got my master cylinder and booster from Rock Auto, about $150 for both. you will also need some adapters and some brake lines. Figure on spending about $200.00 Well worth it. for our MJ's go with a 94-95 booster and matching master cylinder. Everything will line up, you will have to drill out the hole in the booster rod to 9/16 or buy an aluminum spacer at the hardware store that has a 3/8 ID and 1/2 od. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=3352

That is not a cargo plane, that is the front of my pickup camper

I guess we woll drive it on the road to try it out, but no idea when. We have to be at Bonneville on Aug 7 ( friday) for tech, then first runs will be Saturday Aug 8th

You can come out, finding a place to stay is a problem, everything is booked up. You can camp for free off the access road to the salt. They have Porta potties, and there is a truck stop about 1/2 mile away where you can get a shower and they let you fill water cans or water tanks on your camper. they also have a dump station. From Chicago you can fly to salt lake for about $200.00 You would then have to rent a car, and if you camped the cost would be minimal.